Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Dodge Lift Pump Cure ?

[ROGER/DODGER]

I was on vacation 2000 mi. from home, and I started losing lft pump pressure on my gauge. I went to a Dodge dealer in Rochester Il. he sold Dodge trucks but didn't work on diesels. Went to the second Dodge dealer in Belvedere Il.

(by the way this is also home of one of the largest Chrysler assembly plants in North America) didn't have a lift pump, and said that the only mechanic he could spare was not a Cummins man. He also stated that this was a high pressure fuel system and that not just any wrench could work on it! I told him it was 12 lbs of pressure and anybody that could put in spark plugs could change the pump. To make a long story short, Dodge now wants to take the lift pump off the side of the engine and install it in the fuel tank as a pusher pump only! They have a whole kit out ($400) of pump, fuel gauge, relays, wires ect. I finally had a Cummins shop install this kit. It makes about 10 to 12 lbs. at idle about 8lbs. going down the road, and 0 lbs if I hammer it with my stage one kit and EZ. I think that this kit will probably be the last of the lift pumps on this truck but I'm not a happy camper about the 0 lbs this $400

pump puts out. It looks like maybe this is just another half *** fix!!!

 

[Supermod56]

There is a lot of talk on here lately about the new in-tank L/P retrofit that Dodge is doing, low pressures, etc. We shall see. I'm sure glad I finally bought a RASP!!!!



Tom

 

[Fishin Guide]

I was on vacation 2000 mi. from home, and I started losing lft pump pressure on my gauge. I went to a Dodge dealer in Rochester Il. he sold Dodge trucks but didn't work on diesels. Went to the second Dodge dealer in Belvedere Il.

(by the way this is also home of one of the largest Chrysler assembly plants in North America) didn't have a lift pump, and said that the only mechanic he could spare was not a Cummins man. He also stated that this was a high pressure fuel system and that not just any wrench could work on it! I told him it was 12 lbs of pressure and anybody that could put in spark plugs could change the pump. To make a long story short, Dodge now wants to take the lift pump off the side of the engine and install it in the fuel tank as a pusher pump only! They have a whole kit out ($400) of pump, fuel gauge, relays, wires ect. I finally had a Cummins shop install this kit. It makes about 10 to 12 lbs. at idle about 8lbs. going down the road, and 0 lbs if I hammer it with my stage one kit and EZ. I think that this kit will probably be the last of the lift pumps on this truck but I'm not a happy camper about the 0 lbs this $400

pump puts out. It looks like maybe this is just another half *** fix!!!

You are correct about the new rep[lacement pump being in the tank. And if you are still under warranty, they will cover it.



To me, this does not seem like a good long term fix, although they had good intentions. Atleast when it comes to reducing part numbers inventoried.



I went mechanical. Done.



Dave

 

[lumberjack98]

I Installed the carter 4601hp ( 18psi max 15psi wp) on the frame in front of the tank and the vulcan big line pusher kit on my 98. 5. install was a no brainer, came with all the hardware and wiring. I removed the stock lp. now press is 15psi idle 14 cruse and 12 wot I have no bombs but at 100 gph it should be enough to handle much more. Summit sells the pump for @ 90. 00 and the vulcan kit is 109. 00. verry happy with this setup.

 

[pro99]

Well the in tank kit is really for stock truck not modified ones. I think Dodge did that for a reason with low pressure in thinking that 1 you will not modify 2 That they will see how many trucks are modified when they come in with a dead vp44 after the in tank kit was done. They can put out more pressure or volume if they wanted but why do that when it's meant for a stock engine. Looks like the best fix is aftermarket.

 

[keimmmo]

I mounted the factory lift pump on the frame just ahead of the fuel tank. There is a lot less heat and vibration there than on the side of the motor!!! Besides, electric pumps like to push, not pull. The factory pump ran about 80k. I got a new one under warranty. I'm at 124k now and still have good pressure.



If it gets to the point I can not get the factory pumps, I will go aftermarket. I WILL NOT go with the pump in the tank!!!



Steve Keim

 

[Graphic man]

RASP

it uses the factory LP for 2-5 sec. on start-up and the mec. pump takes over

it should last a life time!!!

5 year warranty

14 psi no matter how hard you dirve it!!



IMO any electric pump will die in time



Scott

 

[Cummins Cowboy]

72k on original lift pump, 15-16 psi idle, 8psi WOT, all stock though

 

[Allnew2Me]

I have about 5-9 psi on my pump and still have a Chrysler warranty for another year. What if they put the new pump in the tank, and I still retained the stock lift pump also? that seems like it would be a pretty reliable system with one pushing and one pulling. The stock pump does work, it just goes out after a while, so why not both. Would this work?

 

[Fishin Guide]

I have about 5-9 psi on my pump and still have a Chrysler warranty for another year. What if they put the new pump in the tank, and I still retained the stock lift pump also? that seems like it would be a pretty reliable system with one pushing and one pulling. The stock pump does work, it just goes out after a while, so why not both. Would this work?

Honestly, I do not know. It would depend on a number of factors with the biggest being flow rates of the two pumps. Meaning, does the in tank pump put out more volume than the factory lift pump? If not, I would think that the in tank pump would serve as a restriction and fry the stocker in short order. Then your VP will have 2 pumps to attempt to pull fuel through!



Dave

 

[OlBlue2000]

timely thread - having fuel pump issues

I am having problems with my 2000 ram's fuel pump. It was replaced twice I think by the previous owner. Now I am getting reading on the gauge anywhere from 6-9 psi and 12-14 psi just driving along.



I have absolutely no mechanical experience - I can change the oil, but that's about it - and I live in a small town so finding a Cummins person is probably not gonna happen.



I'm guessing with anything that isn't stock, a dealer will not fool with it? Or they will and just charge you more?



Where can I find out what options I have for replacing my ailing pump? I read the below thread about the 3rd gen kit in a 2nd gen truck. Now I've read this thread and saw the thing about a mechanical pump vs. electric. If the mechanical pumps last a lifetime, why are electric available at all? Are there advantage to electric?



Thanks!

 

[DGamelin]

What is a RASP? Thanks

 

[RMersiowsky]

Request More Info on Pumps

Thank you everyone for the informative discussion on the pumps.



After reading all the discussions on this site, I thought that I had the pumps on my 1998 Dodge 2500 24-valve figured out; one injector and one engined mounted lift pump. I had changed the fuel filter and couldn't get the lift pump to pump a drop of fuel. Even plugged in a friends computer to continuous cycle the lift pump and nothing. So I called Cummins to order the lift pump. The parts guy said that this truck also has a pump in the tank. I know that Dodge is replacing the lift pump with an intank pump kit so does this mean that I now have two pumps and would have one if I convert the Dodge way?



Can someone please confirm for me if this is correct. There are 3 wires going into the tank.



I also need the source for service manuals. I want to install the pumps myself but want to make sure that I don't miss any steps that may not be obvious.



Richard

 

[Graphic man]

you only have 1 LP in your truck the one on the motor, the new up date for our trucks cummins in putting the LP in the tank, if i were you i would go with a aftermarket pump,

FASS, RASP etc.

i run the rasp and love it, it is a belt driven pump that runs off the front of the motor with a 5 year warranty no more electric pumps for me

DTT has them.



Scott

 

[RMersiowsky]

Thanks!



P. S. Any words of wisdom on where to get service manuals for my truck.



Richard

 

[gitchesum]

Thanks!



P. S. Any words of wisdom on where to get service manuals for my truck.



Richard

www.genosgarage.com



In book or CD form.



Link to the manuals



http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalD...86287&st3=57889546&CATID=1&ObjectGroup_ID=150

 

[rweis]

The in tank pump would work fine WITH a RASP



I went with RASP and it is THE way to go IMHO (of course it is, that's why I bought it, duh). Mechanical, no electronics, gear driven, if the crankshaft is turning it is pumping. My OEM lp went down, and the RASP cranks it up just fine.



Bob Weis

 

[Fishin Guide]

The in tank pump would work fine WITH a RASP



I went with RASP and it is THE way to go IMHO (of course it is, that's why I bought it, duh). Mechanical, no electronics, gear driven, if the crankshaft is turning it is pumping. My OEM lp went down, and the RASP cranks it up just fine.



Bob Weis

I am not sure that is completely accurate. IMO The fuel pump in the tank would serve as a inlet restriction to a RASP, FASS, AirDog or whatever the flavor of the week is.



This assumes of course that it has failed. If using one of the aftermarket pumps, I would want nothing but fuel before it. Just too many things to work around with mult. pumps.



Dave



On Edit, this also assumes that the RASP would share the same pickup as the in tank pump outlet. If these were divorced, there would be no conflict.



Dave

 

[Graphic man]

the only way the in tank pump would work with the RASP is if the pick-up fuel line is not restricted by the in tank pump, or run a separate pick up line for the RASP



the fuel line kit by-passes the factory LP with a 1 way check valve so the RASP has a free flow to the filter, and into the VP44, if the RASP stoped working the the factory LP would take over through the 1 way valve and the hobbs switch.

 

[Fishin Guide]

the only way the in tank pump would work with the RASP is if the pick-up fuel line is not restricted by the in tank pump, or run a separate pick up line for the RASP



the fuel line kit by-passes the factory LP with a 1 way check valve so the RASP has a free flow to the filter, and into the VP44, if the RASP stoped working the the factory LP would take over through the 1 way valve and the hobbs switch.

One of he guys in the NWBombers is gonna use a bottom feed AN bulhead fitting and fab up a skidplate. This way, the stock pump path stays intact and the additional pump has entirely new plumbing. By using a check valve, he will run the fuel through the stock filter assy.



So, there is the seperation we talked about.



Dave