Doing ball joint......

[R.Taylor]

I'm getting ready to do my Carli upper and lowers.... Since I'm tearing it apart is there anything else I should do? I was told it's a 50/50 chance the hub bearings could be trashed when removing them from the axle... Should I replace hub bearings, U-joints and all since the axle will be apart? Napa vs OEM hub bearings?


Happy Holidays!

R.Taylor

 

[AH64ID]

I say spend the coin and put some free spin's in. Yukon gets my vote.

 

[Wayne M.]

I say the hubs will be hurt on their removal. And if they came right out, just on age alone it would be questionable to reinstall. If you can swing the expense, a free spin kit is a great improvement. I have the older Spyntec kit, and aside from the hub protrusion (a short version is out now) past the caps, I have no complaint.

 

[AH64ID]

aside from the hub protrusion (a short version is out now) past the caps, I have no complaint.

That's one of the differences in the kits. The short version does seem nice for appearance, but I have gotten used to the extra protrusion on my Yukon kit. Aside from appearance something to consider is the stub-shaft, the Yukon kit uses a Chevrolet length D60 shaft, something that is going to always be available. I heard the shorter shaft from Spyntec is a custom piece, which could cause a difficulty in sourcing one if it was ever needed. I have also heard the narrower bearing spacing makes for a hotter hub assembly, probably not much as the sealed bearings are much closer.. but none the less those were part of my decision to run Yukon. I also like the slim size of the Yukon lockout and the failed to lock backup if something should happen in the back country.

 

[DNDracing]

Just did the Carli's on my truck (uppers and lowers), and even though the bearings came out ok, and had some life left, I decided to replace them. I wasn't going to, but was talked into it by a wise old man I call "Dad", had all the labor done, so it made sense.

I didn't do the axle joints, because about a year and 17,000 miles ago, I put these in from Quad 4x4:

http://www.quad4x4.com/product/40446/TK40446-TK-AXLE-U-JOINT-GR/

I know it's early yet, but I checked them when I did the ball joints, still have no slop. Guys on their tech line were very helpful as well. Heard nothing but good things about them. After doing Axle joints 3 times in just over 100,000 miles, I would spend the extra coin on this set.

Not sure where you are located, the Michigan weather and roads did a pretty fair job of welding the old ball joints in place. Mine were a bear to get out.

Good luck, and Happy Holidays.

 

[04blackcherry]

Timken if you stay with stock bearing units. Just my preference. Free spins would be nice if maneuvering trailers and such in 4 low.

 

[DNDracing]

I went with a National Bearing hub assembly. The guys at my local parts store convinced me they were military grade, better than Timkin, blah, blah, blah. Price was about the same.

I do trust these guys, but to this day, a month after installation, I'm still wondering if I should have stuck with what I know and got a Timkin. Time will tell I guess.

Money no object, I would do the free spin kit as well, but $$$$ is always an object.

 

[cerberusiam]

There is no reason to replace the unit hub bearings unless they are bad. Using the power steering to pop them out will not hurt them. If you gotta bang, beat, and heat them that is a different story.

If they are tight now they will be tight after re-installing. Adding some grease while they are out will probably enhance their life expectancy.

 

[AEdelheit]

I have never had to do unit bearings after probably 6 sets of ball joints between myself and freinds, I do grease them through the abs hole and im not saying it's a bad idea to replace them if your in there, I would run SKF over Timken any day, seen a lot of Timken fail

 

[NGuzik]

Not sure how others are taking the hub off, but I usually keep the 20lbs sledge hammer as far away as posible and get hubs apart with out destroying them. Just make sure to torque them down after and they should last.

 

[Motorhead]

As has been suggested about the free spin kits, you would NEVER be sorry you spent the money for them. It lightens up the steering which is easier on all the wear items in the front end. The whole front drive differential, drive shaft and cardon joint will all last a whole lot longer. The BIGGEST plus I get out of mine is the low range, 2wd reverse with the hubs un-locked. You don't say how many miles now on the truck. I would, at the very least, replace the factory bearing assemblies. My $0.02

 

[DFark]

There is no reason to replace the unit hub bearings unless they are bad. Using the power steering to pop them out will not hurt them. If you gotta bang, beat, and heat them that is a different story.

If they are tight now they will be tight after re-installing. Adding some grease while they are out will probably enhance their life expectancy.

Is there any reason you can't take out the ABS sensor and shoot some grease right into the bearing?

 

[Kry226]

I have never had to do unit bearings after probably 6 sets of ball joints between myself and freinds, I do grease them through the abs hole and im not saying it's a bad idea to replace them if your in there, I would run SKF over Timken any day, seen a lot of Timken fail

If I'm not mistaken, I think my Timken boxed hubs had SKF markings on the hubs themselves.

 

[cerberusiam]

Nope, that is the way to do it. Use some high temp grease and build a quick tool to grease them thru that hole and you are good.

 

[DNDracing]

I know mine were probably fine, but just did all the work to remove and after thinking about doing all that work again, decided to replace them.

I had heard the "power steering trick" to get the hub assemblies out was not a good idea as it was too hard on the front end suspension components, puts a ton of stress on them. I trust what you post on here cerberusiam, any truth to that, or is the stress not enough to worry about it? It does make the job a TON easier!

 

[cerberusiam]

I had heard the "power steering trick" to get the hub assemblies out was not a good idea as it was too hard on the front end suspension components, puts a ton of stress on them. I trust what you post on here cerberusiam, any truth to that, or is the stress not enough to worry about it?

Like anything else, you have to apply the "when used in moderation" principal to it.

Can it hurt the tie rods, yes. Used unjudiciously you can break tie rods with the power of the pump trying to pop the hubs loose.

Will it hurt anymore than constant used turning the truck, no. If used in moderation to loosen the hubs.

You definitely don't want to grab the wheel with both hands and crank it over trying to loosen the hubs. Once the wheel is turned up against the stop 2 fingers on the steering cross bar and a couple of bumps is all it should take. A bump then back it off and hit it again with steady pressure won't hurt htings that are in good shape. If you break a tie rod being careful you just saved yourself a scary ride because it was going to break at some point. If the hub does not start to move right away move to another bolt and whack the hub a couple times with a sledge will usually loosen the rust to get it to move.

If you can't get it to move with moderation pressure worked back and forth on the bolts, a few judicious whacks with a sledge, then a gas wrench and new hubs is the best route. SmapOn makes a socket specifically for doing this so it is a common practice. Just temnper it with common sense and use a LOT of anti seize on assembly. I have pulled mine 3 times now for various reasons. The first time took some whacks of a sledge and back and forth on the bolts. The last 2 times 1 bump on 1 bolt and it popped right out.

Worst problem was the splined part fo the axle shaft had to be driven back into the hub after somework with a file. Seems some of the hubs are a little soft or a little longer on the shoulder where it meets the back of the hub. I just end up pulling hub and shaft together unless I need to change u-joints.

 

[Ozymandias]

You can be sure that the stress to the axle assembly is 100x bigger when you drive through some potholes with 50mph then to push out the bearing.

And grease the outside of the new bearings thoroughly to prevent binding for future frontend work to come.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I think the stress is very minimal. When I did it the PS didn't even strain as much as turning the steering while parked. The thing is you won't even feel the bearing move. Just apply a little pressure and then check them.

 

[AEdelheit]

If I'm not mistaken, I think my Timken boxed hubs had SKF markings on the hubs themselves.

That would be odd, I know a good number of people that have had issues with Timkens and not SKF.