Doing Battle with the (expletive deleted) Fuel Filter Cap

[RUSSELL5000]

A comment and a question.

Changing the engine mounted fuel filter has become my most hated task because it is so difficult to get the cap off. I have put together a system that works.

48 inch long 3/4 inch drive breaker bar
3/4 inch drive extension(s) and universal joint
3/4 inch to 1/2 inch drive reducer
28 mm six point socket
A helper
Something stable to stand on so that you are clearly above the filter

I need a helper to hold the end of the breaker bar as I snap on and off. In the first half turn I have found that one person pushing down on the tool assembly to keep the socket snug on the cap while the other person pushes steadily at the end of the breaker bar works best. Cap makes an ungodly sound on first two full revolutions off. After three/four revolutions can turn with 1/2 inch drive tool sequence and ratchet. Turn by hand last two revolutions.

The difficulty of this task has always struck me as ridiculous. The plastic cap was getting chewed up so I got the Geno's aluminum billet cap to replace. I noticed other posts in which the cap was screwed hand tight and then one quarter revolution more. I could not bring the cap down by hand; could only turn by hand for two/three revolutions. Had to use ratchet and tool sequence to turn cap on.

I disregarded the torque wrench and tried to be cautious about tightening, but my first effort resulted in leaks. I then did additional tightening until no leak.

I do not think I cross-threaded; see no indication of that. I would not think I could snug down if cross-threaded, but maybe. No leak on test drive; truck runs fine. I wonder if the aluminum cap will expand more than the canister when gets hot; could leak then.

I wonder if the canister itself was poorly manufactured and dimensions are off. Has always been a ridiculous struggle to get the cap off and on.

 

[TMyers]

I experience the same thing. I put a little grease in the threads on mine when I change filters and it's still feels like it's going to break before it comes loose on the next change. The resin that the housing and cap are made of has too much friction. It's like PVC plumbing fittings. If you put them together dry, it takes a hammer to get them apart.

 

[Topzide]

I can't say that my battle has been that extreme! My tools are 1/2" ratchet, wobble extension to get above the fresh air intake and a 28mm socket in 1/2". Keep a '"milk crate" in the bed of truck for getting into engine compartment. Upon reassembly, use some diesel fuel on o-ring and threads. Haven't pulled the trigger on the aluminum cap yet buts it's on my radar! Always have these on board when traveling along with the extra filters (even for the transfer tank). I think that the threads are to "sharp" and bind. Should have been more of an acme type thread, that would allow it to move "freer" and still seal against the o-ring. Just one of those things we have to deal with. Not getting rid of truck just because the filter is a b$t@h to change!