Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Doing the KDP tab Jan.1 A few questions...

[PWeber]

1. How critical is the re- install of the crank sensor as it looks to be very adjustable and will come off with the cover bolts? Also, will the truck start/ run if this is not set correct? (Just trying to see what could trip me up)



2. With 170k miles should I install the crank seal? I dont have a press but do have a drill press I can use that is of pretty large size (6ft floor standing model). How hard does the seal press in?

 

[PWeber]

I just thought of 1 more question. I assume the water pump is that pulley that is off to the center left of the middle when looking at it. Should I consider replacing it as it looks like a 15 minute job with the front end off? Do these go out very often?

 

[DSiemens]

repair

The crank sensor is used to trigger the tach. If I am wrong please enlighten me. Its position is sensitive for this reason. Do not have specification handy, but figure "roughly" about match book thickness.

You can cool the the front crank seal and warn up the timing cover. The install will go much easier. A large vise works okay or ... maybe drill press but nothing ventured nothing gained.

If water pump is leaking from weep hole, replace. Grab the front pulley and see if there is any play. There should be no side to side movement.

 

[Joe G.]

For trucks with the P7100 pump the crank sensor is not involved with the engine operation. If your tach works, the adjustment is ok. Not very critical. If you have an auto trans, the CPM may want to know how fast the engine is turning so you should get the adjustment close enuff for the tach to work.



The seal presses in easy. Getting it started is the hard part. If I take the cover off I install a new crank seal. May not be necessary, but I don't want to tear it apart again to do that if it leaks.



I have over 210K miles on my water pump. No sign of a problem with it so far. From what I read on these forums, water pump problems are rare. The idler pully is more likely to fail. If it doesn't wobble and doesn't squeak it's ok.

 

[PWeber]

When people say to put the seal in dry, do they mean do not put any grease on the crank when installing the cover back on or do not put any sealant on the seal when pressing it into the cover?

 

[Joe G.]

Dry means dry. No grease on crank. No sealer on seal. The only thing to use is a smear of blue loctite on the outside edge of the seal where it presses into the cover. Seal to crank must be dry. I used brake cleaner and air to make sure all grease and whatever was cleaned off the crank. Then I polished it carefully with a paper shop towel. No leaks so far.

 

[PWeber]

Wow, most trans output seals, etc. today come with grease on the rubber material from the factory. OK, thanks for the info.

 

[jdub]

A block of wood placed between the drill press chuck and the seal will drive it into the cover with no problem. The plastic "tool"

goes in with the large end towards the engine and will almost fall out after the cover is replaced. I would never have believed it thinking the instructions were wrong. Good luck!

 

[Joe G.]

The seal material is made from some sort of teflon. Grease messes it up.

 

[grtescpa]

front seal

I used some tack coat instead of the locktite. Its worked just fine and was cheaper than the locktite. And yes, be sure to clean the shaft good with an oil free degreeser or the new seal will leak.

 

[QRTRHRS]

See here.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42167&highlight=crank+sensor

Clearance on the sensor is . 049-. 051, use nonmagnetic guage.

 

[Joe G.]

I found a piece of aluminum in my junk. Gave it a few swats with a hammer until my micrometer said it was close. I used that for a feeler gage.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Originally posted by Joe G.

I found a piece of aluminum in my junk. Gave it a few swats with a hammer until my micrometer said it was close. I used that for a feeler gage.

Good idea! I had a friend make me some one inch slip clutch gauges with bar stock. I never thought about it for this application.

 

[PWeber]

Does a drill press have enough power to pres in a seal flat like this?



I picked up the seal, gasket, etc. this morning. I noticed on the install intractions they show pulling the old one and installing the new one on the engine. Would that be easier?

 

[PWeber]

One last question. What are the affects of running the engine without the vibration dampner to check for leaks or is that a "no no"?

 

[Joe G.]

It's not the amount of force you need to get the seal in there. It's that the pressure has to be even so it won't tip. I don't think I would want to run it without the vibration damper. You can see very well from below if there is any leak.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Originally posted by PWeber

Does a drill press have enough power to pres in a seal flat like this?



I picked up the seal, gasket, etc. this morning. I noticed on the install intractions they show pulling the old one and installing the new one on the engine. Would that be easier?

I supported my cover and slowly tapped around the insert tool until it went together. Some members have used the heat (summer sun or the kitchen oven) to warm the plate while shrinking the seal by chilling it. Don't know about the drill press.



I think it would be easier with the cover off. Besides, doing the TAB allows you to check the bolts holding the back half of the gear cover. They can and do loosen. My neighbor had one take off his cam gear.

 

[Deezul1]

I used a drill press to do 2 of them and it worked slick. Press them in from the back side makes it easier. Do not use metal feeler gauge to set crank sensor, use brass or something non metallic the right thickness as the metal ones will screw up the sensor.

 

[Ben Rumson]

I will be on the road tomorrow and unavailable to help talk you through it over the phone. If I were here I'd give you my number. Sorry.



One very helpful hint before I sign off for a few days...



Get a piece of cold steel (or hard wood) that is about 7. 5 inches long. Use it to wedge between the groove in the vibration dampner and the steering tie rod in order to keep the dampner for rotating when loosening the 4 bolts that hold it to the crank. The piece of steel will be on the left side of center to loosen the bolts (pushing the steel downward into the steering linkage thus keeping the dampner from spinning) and on the right side of center to tighten the bolts (again, pushing the steel downward into the steering linkage) .



Crank position sensor gap is not critical. Actual sensor to dampner clearance is 0. 050 inches. As long as it's close, and your tach works you'll be good.



Good luck.



- Ben