Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Door Crack

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Air in Fuel after start

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission replacement floor

Status
Not open for further replies.
Yesterday I suddenly found I couldn't latch my driver door. I found a 1. 5" crack radiating from the bottom of the door latch opening, allowing the entire latch to move fore and aft. Any ideas on how to approach a repair?

Thanks,

Brett
1998 12 valve quad cab 254,000 mi.
 
Last edited:
Yesterday I suddenly found I couldn't latch my driver door. I found a 1. 5" crack radiating from the bottom of the door latch opening, allowing the entire latch to move fore and aft. Any ideas on how to approach a repair?



Thanks,



Brett



Brett, fill in your signature so we know what you have for a truck.



Also, a few pictures so the gang can see it. Some excellent welders on here that will advise you once they see the carnage... ;)



Mike. :)
 
I think I've seen it. Several have done it when the hinges get loose and the door drags when closing. The weight of the door hanging on the latch doesn't help. A tig welder can fix it, but the latch has to be removed from inside, or it'll catch fire from lube and nylon inserts. I'd suggest finding a local welding shop, unless you can weld with a Tig or have a MIG welder that will go down low enough voltage and feed. I also use a piece of nylon under the door after the hinge and welding repair to keep the door from sagging and dragging on the latch when closed. My ranch trucks get the hinges inspected every few weeks... . got a '97 with a new door, recently, as it was too thin to weld, even with TIG!!!! POS low bid door frame!! The off road use is rough on 'em.
 
I had this happen last winter. I used a mig welder to fix the offending area. First I pulled the door panel off, and removed the latch (as recommended above). Then I wire wheeled the area to remove all the paint etc. DON'T use a grinding wheel to remove the paint, the metal is very thin, a wire wheel will remove the paint but lessen the chance of significant metal removal. I welded the cracks (I had multiple cracks after close inspection). Then I made a plate to cover the entire area, marked and drilled out for the mounting bolts, door latch slot and tacked that to the door to strengthen the are and spread the load. Not a sexy repair, but functional.

I replaced the hinges, before doing this repair, but obviously didn't replace them soon enough. Figure on doing the hinges as well to prevent the same thing from happening again.

Chris
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top