2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission door handles

[TRoss]

Someone, I assume trying to steal my truck, pounded my lock cylinder out of the door handle. Has anyone ever had to fix this? Do you just replace the whole door handle? Is that easy to remove/replace? I appreciate any thoughts on this issue.

 

[Joe Mc]

I would think your guess is correct - someone was trying to jack your truck. Most likely it's not too hard a fix, remove door panel, raise the window, remove vapor barrier (plastic sheet) locate and remove - boneyard part. May have to go for the dealer new lock cylinder though - they should be able to have it keyed like the rest of the truck so you don't need two keys. A suggestion if you don't alread have one, install a kill switch for the ignition, make sure you hide it pretty well. Also, if you have to park in a questionable place remove the relay for the lift pump. If they manage to get in and get it started at least it won't go too far . . .

 

[TRoss]

thanks for the information Joe, my lock cylinder doesn't look too beat up, so I'm hoping I won't have to get a new one, but we'll see. Is there a good method for removing the vapor barrier and, more importantly, getting it to stick again nicely? That is always the hardest part, but perhaps I am missing some secret that makes it easy.



I've been considering a kill switch on the clutch sensor, as opposed to the fuel shutdown solenoid, because at least then they wouldn't burn up my starter trying. Though some have pointed out that if it doesn't even turn over, it makes it obvious that there is a kill switch. So I thought about doing one of each and just putting them different places since neither sounds that expensive or difficult.

 

[Joe Mc]

Not sure about the vapor barrier. Haven't had to remove my door panel yet. If it's like most newer things probably plastic liner w/black goo holding it on. If so you could try dental flossing it off. Get it started then saw back and forth to cut the goo but not the plastic. Then "just don't touch any of the goo as you work (ha, ha - good luck) then when you're done it should stick right back to the plastic which will still have some goo on it. Yeah I hear ya about the kill switch, and removing the fuel pump relay can be a bit of a hassel each time you stop. I guess instead of a kill switch you could install a fuel pump interupt switch that won't allow the pump to run unless it's turn on. Then fining a place ot put it that's out of sight and easy to reach - always something . . . good luck.

 

[CSnyder]

Best way to deal with the plastic is by getting the job inside done then use duct tape to hold the plastic back in place. Its not something you see anyways.

 

[Crash&Burn]

QUESTION... On removing the fuel pump relay or a switch to kill the pump. Isn't this just like a dead lift pump? The engine will still run, but it will soon kill the injector pump.

 

[Joe Mc]

QUESTION... On removing the fuel pump relay or a switch to kill the pump. Isn't this just like a dead lift pump? The engine will still run, but it will soon kill the injector pump.

If the LP is good, the VP should be OK. I. E. if no power to LP it will not provide a head of psi to the VP, truck may start but soon die once fuel is not provided. The pump being good is key as when it's not pumping it creates a stop flow in the suction line (like a valve) between the tank and the VP inlet.

 

[Crash&Burn]

If the LP is good, the VP should be OK. I. E. if no power to LP it will not provide a head of psi to the VP, truck may start but soon die once fuel is not provided. The pump being good is key as when it's not pumping it creates a stop flow in the suction line (like a valve) between the tank and the VP inlet.

This is true... . but it isn't the way I would go to keep my truck from being stolen. The truck may run many many miles with 0 lift pump pressure...