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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Door Hinge Pins

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Grid heater

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My door has a sag, that results in wind noise. About to drive across country so I got some new hinge pins. Any sage words of advice or guide from someone who has done these before?



Thanks,

Bernie
 
The door is heavy. I used my engine hoist and rope to support it before I removed the hinges from the door. The connector for the wire harness is enclosed in the flexable boot between the door and the body. Obviously you should disconnect the harness before unbolting the hinges.
 
Bernie,
On my 1996 which was produced in early 96, the hinge pin kit available didnot fit my hinges.
I had to drill out my hinges on my doors to fit the bushings in the kit.
 
Before I start to remove hinge pins I use a floor jack with a 2x4 that is 2 feet long to support the door. Most the time I get an extra set of hands to keep the door steady. Then I cut the old pin in half with a small 90* angle grinder. I use a small punch to remove the old pin. I do one pin at a time so the door doesn't fall to far. I remove the spring before the second pin gets cut. From there it's pretty self explanatory. Make sure the right bushing go with the right pins. Then you'll have to get creative on how to put the old spring back in. I had to make a small spring compressor with angle iron bolted together to get that spring back in. Unless someone has a better way. . Only other thing I can add is to do both pins at once, it's pretty tempting to only do the bad pin but if one went bad the other isn't to far away. Ask me how I know. . It's a pretty easy job maybe an hour per door maybe less after you do the first one.
 
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