Door latch linkages

[MMiller]

The last few months the drivers door has been getting harder to open, the thumb button is harder to puch in and you ahve to puch it harder to get the door to unlatch. Last night I went out to it and the key would not push the lock mecanism enough to unlock the door. Also when you use the power unlocks the doors do not unlock unless you push the button several times. I am guessing that it is beyond the point of just lubing the mechanism.



I think that the linkages are getting worn and prolly need dissassembled, maybe rebuilt. Is there any companies that make these parts except the stealer? Is there a rebuild kit available for the latch, lock mechanisms? I also want to rebuild the hinges as the drivers door drags some.



Has anyone already done battle with one of these. My 93's doors are opening harder tha my 75 dodge doors, I gotto do something!!







Thanks

Michael

 

[Philip]

A lot of the MFG's of these door lock assy's used a white lube called lubriplate. It is a good sticky lube that lasts for years. But over the last decade it has gotten had.



Pull your door panel and take some brake cleaner or carb cleaner and spray your latch fron the inside of the door. Work the handles and the electric parts a few times then reoil it and see what happens.





I have seen many gumed up latches over the years.

 

[sparks57]

I had a hard time with my drivers side door handle button... you had to push it REALLY hard to get the door open. I took it to the dealership and they fixed it. My doorlocks still don't work though. The drivers side power doorlock button will not lock or unlock the doors, but the passenger side will lock both doors but not unlock. All the window buttons work fine though. Do you think my switches are bad?

 

[dieselgirlanddan]

I had this same problem with the drivers door.

I would do what Philip said to try. I did it months ago, And it works just fine. Good Luck!!

Cheers

Amy

 

[jlast]

Check out the discountinued parts section with the hinge stuff



It is just another source for parts



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=64193



Same problem here!!



I had mine tore apart, did the lube/wd40, wiggle and jiggle deal, put it all back together and it lasted about 3 days. What happend on my passenger side was one the plastic that makes up the internal working of the latch was all cracked and busted that evereything was binding and finally the latch would not close. My driverside it did the exact same thing also but it was just so beat up and broken that it would latch fine, but about every forth time I couldnt get it to unlock and I got really sick of running through the passenger side to get in.



Now there is a pivot right behind the push button that might cause you not to be able to push it in all the way, but with both the push button and unlocking problem I suspect your latch has gone bad.



Now I fixed mine like the link says, it was a little work and saved a little money without going to the stealer, not sure if you can even get them through the stealer?



Lube the push button pivot, and the interior door pull and check for any cracks around the interior door pull, cause the door is weak around it and mine had cracks like crazy, plus just cause your in there that far



Jlast

 

[Bluebird]

Slow power window...

I figured this is somewhat related. My right side power window goes up and down slower when its below 50 degrees. Its fine once the weather warms up. Anyone else have the same problem? Good posts on door latches, I'll consider maintainance before they get stuck.

 

[RGT]

I have the same slow right side window problem, I have to bump it down then up to creep it back up, the left is startlingly fast. I have sticky latch/lock problems, my key would not actuate the drivers side lock enough to unlock, the cure I used was a remote lock/unlock system, which I like a lot, though sometimes it won't get the driver's side lock up enough to allow me to open, so I go in through the pass side, I also don't lock the rear slider all the way for that eventuallity when neither side lets me in... .

 

[Dieselman359]

Windows

Bluebird, and RGT, I don't think that we are alone with our windows, at least I hope not. I think that my pass side window is slow only because of the great load on the alternator and battery during the heater cycles. I only notice mine doing so on a cold start during heater cyclin'. I've been crawlin' around under the dash lately, rewiring and I believe that the windows have a 30 amp fuse, so that along with the 100 amp? (that I believe I read somewhere on here) heaters, and the drained battery from starting, I think that is all it is, just a huge load on the electrical system. Like I said, I only notice mine when its cold, how about yours?

 

[Dieselman359]

Bluebird, just reread your post, it seems like your windows work fine when the truck warms up also.

Anyone else??

 

[RGT]

When it's so cold your heaters are cycling why are you opening your window?

Mine does it even after an hour on the highway, when I go to close... .

 

[jwilmoth]

Originally posted by CB_Parker

I had a hard time with my drivers side door handle button... you had to push it REALLY hard to get the door open. I took it to the dealership and they fixed it. My doorlocks still don't work though. The drivers side power doorlock button will not lock or unlock the doors, but the passenger side will lock both doors but not unlock. All the window buttons work fine though. Do you think my switches are bad?

I'll bet you have a broken wire or two between the door and door jam, thats what happened on my 93, I never found them until I bought new switches.

 

[sgriffing]

Re: Windows

Originally posted by Dieselman359

Bluebird, and RGT, I don't think that we are alone with our windows, at least I hope not. I think that my pass side window is slow only because of the great load on the alternator and battery during the heater cycles.

It might be crap in the rails/mechanism. I have crank windows and they can be a real B!tch to operate, especially at the bottom of travel.

 

[MMiller]

Hey philip,



Is the lubriplate you are talking about the same stuff as the white lithium lube that I have in an aerosol can in the garage. A light, white grease? Would I want to put this on the power window tracks too?? My windows were very fast when the truck is new, now with age the e. t's of the window up and down has slowed. I know part of it needs lubed, I hope it cures the door handle latch problems too!



Thanks for all the info once again guys and gal. As always its appreciated!



Michael

 

[Philip]

That is the same lube. It is a little thinner so it can spray. But it is close enough.



On your window track. Do not put it on the side tracks. The side track has a felt track in it. You might want to check and see if some of the felt has come loose and rolled up into the channel and is binding the window.



Only use the lube on the bottom track that the window regulator hooks in to. Clean this track also before you spray the lube on it. Use a stiff wire or brass brush on the track also. The plastic pivots are a tight fit in the track. If there is rust and corrision there it will bind them.



This should conclude Doors 101. LOL