2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Door Sill Rust,Any Ideas?

[MAllen]

Over the last year my 98 has developed that rust at the bottom of the driver and passenger doors. I have seen so many 2nd Gen's with that. Has anyone had success grinding the rust out and repairing with Bondo and repainting? Any other ideas to repair that without going to an expensive auto body shop?

 

[TurboSandman]

I second this post.

I came across Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Eastwood Rust Encapsulator - Rust Inhibitor Paint Coating on a Jeep forum. Those guys have a much greater familiarity with rust than we do, so they may know what of they speak.

Anyone out there have any experience with the Eastwook product?

 

[SRath]

Here's what I'm going to try. It won't fix existing rust, but it will slow it down dramatically it seems and prevent new rust in places like those door seams where coatings just can't get.



CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection System - Corrosion Control



There is another very recent thread called "Cancer" that covers what you are asking.

 

[DMoon]

Several years ago I had major body work done, door skins replaced, rear wheel wells reworked as well as the front fenders replaced; rust courtesy of Buffalo, NY winters. After that I began using a product called THRUST, manufactured by Castle Products. It's actually meant to be a penetrating oil for loosening stuff but it wicks into crevices and leaves a coating that repels moisture, eventually it'll turn tacky and stays where it's put. I spray inside of panels and blind areas at least 2x per year; using several cans. I cover the frame and underside of the box and cab. I spray seams and hidey holes; everywhere I can get the red spray nozzle into I spray liberally. It has worked for me as I've not be plagued with the cancer since.

And as far as electronic cathodic protection... ... works OK for industrial equipment and bridges but not on auto's. E-mail me and I'll explain why!!!

 

[SRath]

You are exactly correct about cathodic protection working on bridges and pipelines but not vehicles, DMoon.



I think the CounterAct website will be of particular interest to you because they say the same thing and explain how a constant layer of moisture is needed for the cathodic systems to work.



Not with their system, though.



Their system is NOT cathodic and was designed to work on vehicles. They have a patent on both the equipment and the process and it has proven itself on vehicles in extremely corrosive environments such as salt mines.



They use a unique capacitor discharge system that turns your vehicle into part of the capacitor. No anodes or cathodes. Very interesting.



4Wheeler and other magazines have also done articles on it. It sounds like a winner.