2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Do's and dont's of 4WD

[Coalsmoke]

Hey,

tomorrow we are planning on heading into the mountains for a drive, and if necessary I will be using some 4WD. However, I don't have an owner's manual to review how to properly engage and dissengage from 2wd to 4 hi / lo and I don't want to brake anything out of ignorance (I should make that my moto ). I have driven a geo tracker hunting in 4X4 rocky conditions but never a full truck, except for a newer auto chev which doesn't really count. Can you offer anything that I should know and if anyone could layout the ground rules of engagement and disengagement, like whether to be full stopped, rolling a bit, or over a certain speed.



Thanks guys

 

[Joe G.]

You can make the 2wd - 4hi shift any time below 50 MPH according to the owner's manual in my '95. I have not tried to shift it at that speed, but I have done it going as much as 30 MPH when I came to some snow. Very smooth shifting at that speed.



The 4hi-2wd shift is also nice and smooth at speeds above 10 MPH. Sometimes if you have good traction it may take a while for the front axle to let go. If you are going slow make a couple of turns to encourage it to let go. It turns off the FWD light on the dash when the vacuum axle shifter moves to disengage the front axle. That doesn't really matter since the shift disengaged the transfer case so it's not binding anyway.



Mine is a little stiff shifting at low speeds for the 2wd-4hi in and out shifts.



The 4hi - 4lo and 4lo - 4hi requires you to stop. Grinds like crazy if you don't.

 

[Sticks]

If you have to do some real tight turns (u-turns, 3 point turns, square peg in a round hole kind of turns), and you are in 4wd, drop back into 2wd to make the turn(s).

 

[Ramafid]

Make sure if you are in 4wd that you have tire slippage. No slippage front to back will end in driveline bind. Not good! Can lead to broken parts in a hurry.

 

[ProspectorTim]

Try out the 4wd BEFORE you need it.



I noticed that you are talking about a 1995 truck. Whether you bought it used, or even if you bought it new and just haven't used the 4wd yet - it is old enough that *something* could be broke. You don't want to be stuck in 3 feet of snow, no shovel, and no help in sight and find out it just doesn't work!



If you are just talking about driving on mountain roads where there may be some snow/ice and you need extra traction then this is no big deal. But if you are thinking about going off-road (4-wheeling) then consider this: Don't go 4-wheeling alone, unless you have a winch (or come-along), and a shovel. A hi-lift jack would be good to have too. Especially in the mountains, and even more so in the winter; being stuck can become a life-threatening situation! Best bet is to go 4-wheeling with other 4-wheelers. You can learn from other people, and help is always available if you need it. Check the internet or local 4wd shops for info on a club/group near you.

 

[Ramafid]

Take Prospector Tim's post to heart. Trust me, it is no fun being stuck in the winter in the middle of nowhere. I had a winch which got me out but it was a long hard process. 4 wheeling with a group is good advice.

 

[Bart]

You're not going to believe this but I just finished a trip though Death Valley California in my '98 with an 11' cabover. I was in 4 wheel for three days. I had people in Jeeps and Nissans scratching their heads at the dually tracks and then to catch up with my group and see the camper also, was too much. One guy even bought me a beer.

Anyway, shifting in and out of 4 High is a piece of cake at anything less than 50 MPH. I've done it at 45 on the freeway in a heavy rain storm. Going into 4Low requires a full stop coming and gonin. Coming out is not a problem in my Dodge but in my early Bronco (EB) backing up a little helps the shift back into 4Hi/2Hi. Shouldn't need it with the Dodge though. Just information.

 

[Extreme1]

My recommendation on shifting into 4 hi: Slow way down, the mass of the parts you're trying to spin up with a brass synchro ring is huge (thick, heavy t-case gears, front driveshaft, front carrier ass'y, axles). I've had mine apart and won't do it above about 15 mph slower that that is my usual shift speed. The 50 mph speed is definately a sales point that doesn't really consider wear, the average truck gets waxed more than it gets driven off road.



You can shift from 4 hi to 2 hi at any speed, the parts just spin down.



Ditto on the trial run, odds are that you have a vacuum leak in the harness that goes to the front end.

 

[Bart]

That reminds me that I need to polish my truck to get all the off road "desert pinstriping" buffed out Wanna see the latest trip though Death Valley, California:--)

 

[SpicyJam]

You know I tried to pull my '01 in 4 hi when we got some snow doing 10 to 15 mph. Won't let me do it. I need to come to a complete stop then pull her back. I can get it out of 4 hi easy enough moving but thought I should be able to to pull it in going forward. My Jeep works that way and it is great, yes the tires are the same size all the way around. Is there something gone in the case that I need to get fixed? Or is this the way it is? Guys with the autos seem to not have this problem, oh why me... ... ... . lol.

 

[Sticks]

My ETH/DEE shifts on the fly, no problem. The trick is to be firm witht he shift, no wimp shifting.

 

[rfcom]

Not sure if anyone already mentioned this, but the transmission (std. ) should be in neutral before shifting the t-case. I've shifted into and out of 4 Hi at up to 80 kph with no issues. Like stated above, be firm with the lever.



Jim

 

[Sticks]

Originally posted by rfcom

Not sure if anyone already mentioned this, but the transmission (std. ) should be in neutral before shifting the t-case. I've shifted into and out of 4 Hi at up to 80 kph with no issues. Like stated above, be firm with the lever.



Jim

I'm always cluch in, not nuetral. Maybe I better go re-read the directions again.

 

[Sixpack]

Originally posted by SpicyJam

You know I tried to pull my '01 in 4 hi when we got some snow doing 10 to 15 mph. Won't let me do it. I need to come to a complete stop then pull her back. I can get it out of 4 hi easy enough moving but thought I should be able to to pull it in going forward. My Jeep works that way and it is great, yes the tires are the same size all the way around. Is there something gone in the case that I need to get fixed? Or is this the way it is? Guys with the autos seem to not have this problem, oh why me... ... ... . lol.

If you are moving and shifting into 4-hi, let up on the go pedal while shifting the transfer case. Once the shift is made resume speed. Might help... . It did for me Phil

 

[continentaldrifter]

AIR DOWWWWN!!!!,before heading up and in at the trail head,depending on what size and style tires you've got,"Start" with airing down 30% of your air volume(ex:if you've got 32lbs of pressure take 10-12lbs out)If you need to take more out,use common sense!!By doing this you will benefit in more than one way,

1-increases contact area with ground and rock

2-increases articulation

3-decreases shock to the trucks body and yours



I've taken it down to as little as 14lbs. Dont get carried away with letting too much air out as you will roll the bead off the rim. I've 'wheeled from Bangor Maine to Telluride Colorado over the past 18 years,this will prove to be more effective than it so simply sounds,Trust me... ... ... . have fun and keep it clean

 

[tpruitt]

The lowest i have gone is 18psi and that was with the stock tires. The truck did good on the beach like this but when it came time to go air up at the closest place the truck was not fun to drive on the road. If you don't have an air compressor and you have to travel a way to an air pump then don't air down any more than you feel comfortable driving with.