dpf delete

[Bovee]

Looking for a good dpf delete kit. theres alot out there and im not sure on what all i neef. and is it worth it?what are the pros and cons

 

[Cosmo]

Pros - no more fuel in oil dilution, gain a couple to several mpg, gain power.
Cons - need a programmer ($$), potential for a big EPA fine, resale is iffy without it.

Do NOT throw away the stock exhaust, and do not let a shop keep it if you pay someone to do the work. If you have to replace the exhaust down the road and you don't have yours, you're looking at over $5000 for the cat and DPF alone.

Is it worth it? IMHO, yes. Exhaust and a programmer (and EGR delete) puts your truck right around 500hp/1100lb-ft and if you can keep your foot out of it you should see mid to high teens in city driving, and low 20s on the highway. Driving style/speed definitely plays a part in it.

 

[Bovee]

Thank you for the info. Sounds like thats what im gonna do then.

 

[Brian Sullivan]

make the pipe yourself. Buy a gasket and use it as a template. Then weld a 6' piece of pipe on it and save your old stuff case u need it. Love mine

 

[AH64ID]

Exhaust and a programmer (and EGR delete) puts your truck right around 500hp/1100lb-ft and if you can keep your foot out of it you should see mid to high teens in city driving, and low 20s on the highway. Driving style/speed definitely plays a part in it.

If you turn it up that high. . which I don't recommend if a delete kit and tuner are your only mods. . About +100 is all you should do, +60-70 is really the best on a 100% stock truck to keep OEM longevity and reliability.

 

[Cosmo]

If you turn it up that high. . which I don't recommend if a delete kit and tuner are your only mods. . About +100 is all you should do, +60-70 is really the best on a 100% stock truck to keep OEM longevity and reliability.

I've been driving mine turned up as such for about 20k miles, about a year and a half now, and the only reason my trans ate crow is because I was being stupid - power braking on pavement in 4wd. I liquefied my underdrive clutches. That's it though, no broken parts.



The shop I bought my stuff through has customers running similar setups with over 100k on them with zero problems.



I do (as do their other customers) have an Airdog lift pump/filter, and a fuel rail shim.



Will it last as long as a bone stock truck? I think it'll outlast bone stock if driven smartly. Bone stock has EGR injecting soot into the oil, and a DPF injecting fuel into the oil... . a mixture perfect for wiping out bearings and such.



Will it last 300k+ if you're taking it to the track all the time? No, I would wager that eventually you'll break stuff.



PS. Mine ran 13. 8's consistently.

 

[AH64ID]

There are things about that much hp that decrease life, if you use the hp. The stock turbo isn't designed to move that much air and is either spinning too fast or your not cooling enough.

Shiming the rail means your running high rail pressure, and that's the number one killer of injectors. . hopefully you aren't running out of the box filter on the AD as that's less overall filtration than stock (unless you kept your stock filter as well).

There are plenty of people running high hp machines, but 500 rwhp is a bit above what most run, and is easier to find yourself out of the reliable realm. 400-425 rwhp is about perfect on a stock motor. . Above that and your looking at studs, serious trans upgrades, turbo (for useable power, not just quick blurps of WOT), CP3 upgrades, airflow improvements, etc. . But like you mentioned it does work well for plenty of people, but not what I would advertise as an improvement over stock in the reliability/durability dept. . with stock parts.

 

[Cosmo]

I don't disagree... railing on it 24/7 is going to cut its life a lot shorter. I only really use the power once in a blue moon while merging on the freeway or if I pull out in traffic on the highway, and even then I try to keep the smoke down so I don't get pulled over.

I'm running the 2 micron filters, not the 10 micron - however the truck's stock filter was a 10 micron unit iirc, and it wasn't until a little while ago that they switched to a 7 micron filter.

I was also running an FS2500 bypass filter on the oil, but I've removed it so I can put it on my next truck as soon as I sell this one.

I'm all about doing what I can to increase longevity of my truck - 2 micron filters, additives in the oil/fuel, etc...

I do think my setup is an improvement over stock for reliability over time - depending on driver input. Drag racing, sled pulling, heavy towing, and other activities are hard on the equipment, and when pushing the limits of stock components they're even harder on the truck, there's no doubt. It's plenty easy to back the fuel/boost off too.

 

[AH64ID]

OEM fuel filters for the 6. 7 are 5um. The AD filter that is labeled "2um" is actually 5um just like the OEM filter, but the draw back is the f/w sep on the AD is rated lower than the OEM f/w sep. . so using the AD filters out of the box has less overall efficiency than you did stock.

 

[Cosmo]

Back in 08 you posted a link to a TSB showing 7 micron filtration for OEM.

 

[AH64ID]

Back in 08 you posted a link to a TSB showing 7 micron filtration for OEM.

That TSB was dated August, 2006 and the 6. 7 filter has been upgraded since then, and is now 5um absolute. I am not sure if there was a TSB to replace it or not.



Both the 7um and 5um OEM's offer better f/w separation than the AD does, with the out of the box filters.



A Baldwin BF1275 and Donaldson P551315 will give you the best available filtering for the AD's.

 

[CBlack]

Looking for a good dpf delete kit. theres alot out there and im not sure on what all i neef. and is it worth it?what are the pros and cons

Well worth it.



I have the 5" Diamond Eye exhaust w/muffler. Muffler systems are so cheap for these trucks, I recommend going that route.



I have a Smarty to get rid of the codes.



And for the record, I no longer have my stock exhaust.



You can find them on other forums if you want to go back that route.