Drag link weld question (sorry!)

[AMink]

I know this is old news but I'm at the point where the Ram dealer cannot complete an alignment due to the so called fix. I contact RamCare and was told they no longer handle it. It has to go through the dealer to the regional office (or something like that). Dealer started it on their end, I started it on my end with RamCare though I'm not sure why. I have been told a new drag link was denied at whatever level the dealer deals with and they are now trying a different route.

This seems to be total bunk. Poor part by RAM, poor "solution" by RAM, poor customer service by RAM. Has any else gone through this recently and been totally denied? Anyone make it through and get a new part? Dealer has been trying but it seems like the clog is higher up.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Don't they have a grinder to remove the welds? They can do the alignment but steering wheel may not be centered without popping the welds.

 

[Diesel85]

A grinder and 2 minutes will fix the problem for the lock nut.

All the ones I've looked at just had a few small pea-sized spot welds.

If one was really desperate, a Harbor Freight hand file and some time, and one can accomplish the same thing. Takes a little elbow grease, but doable.

 

[AMink]

Don't they have a grinder to remove the welds? They can do the alignment but steering wheel may not be centered without popping the welds.

I'll ask but I'm guessing they won't due to liability. All I know is they said they can't get it into spec the way it sits.

 

[AMink]

A grinder and 2 minutes will fix the problem for the lock nut.

All the ones I've looked at just had a few small pea-sized spot welds.

If one was really desperate, a Harbor Freight hand file and some time, and one can accomplish the same thing. Takes a little elbow grease, but doable.

I agree I could do that. I just don't see why the customer should have to do it. It's not like drag links are new technology. How could RAM screw it up in the first place?

 

[Grumpy8811]

reality is you can perform a wheel alignment on a truck with the welded drag link because the tie rod tube and the caster adjustment can still be performed..
What they can't do is to center the steering wheel if it isn't in the right position for driving straight ahead
if the drag link is welded..

isn't it also true that Mopa was supposed to replace all the drag links when parts were available.

 

[petersonj]

reality is you can perform a wheel alignment on a truck with the welded drag link

What they can't do is to center the steering wheel if it isn't in the right position for driving straight ahead
if the drag link is welded..

Which means that the steering gear sector shaft won't be centered on the high point, which in turn will result in excessive play in the steering wheel driving straight down the highway.

So, if the steering wheel is not centered, then the alignment is not complete.

@AMink , I would keep pushing a dealer to fix it right.

- John

 

[Diesel85]

Alternatively you could go to another shop since it's an alignment. A good shop will grind the weld off the nut, do the alignment, road test it, then if all good re-weld it.

For me, I got a couple great tire/alignment shops in my area I wouldn't blink my eye to go to just for tire balancing (road force for example), and alignments.

 

[John Jensen]

Keep on them. Everyone I know, including my brother, that had the weld got a new drag link, but it took a lot of pressure from the owner.

 

[Grumpy8811]

Which means that the steering gear sector shaft won't be centered on the high point, which in turn will result in excessive play in the steering wheel driving straight down the highway.

So, if the steering wheel is not centered, then the alignment is not complete.

@AMink , I would keep pushing a dealer to fix it right.

- John

I don't think the steering box matters all that much as the pitman arm is usually splined to the gear box and depending on the crown of the road and other factors the steering wheel might not be centered anyway.. basically the steering box is independent from wheel alignment and the steering shaft independent from the gear box too..so it looks weird when the steering wheel is canted but it doesn't affect steering geometry.

 

[Cummins12V98]

MOPAR did the welding and if you need an alignment MOPAR needs to grind welds, adjust and re weld. ORRR replace the drag link.

 

[sag2]

The dealer does not know what he is doing. I'm assuming the steering wheel was centered before the nut was welded. If it is off so far they are not able to adjust the toe, something is bent or worn out. If they are not able to get the steering wheel centered they should not have a problem getting a new drag link, assuming they have any kind of relationship with the Area Manager.

UBJECT:
Toe Adjustment With Welded Drag Link
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves an updated procedure on how to adjust the toe on a vehicle after it has had
(V06) recall performed (welded drag link) in the event that the front toe needs adjustment at a later
date.
MODELS:
2013 - 2018 (D2) RAM 3500 Pickup
2014 - 2018 (DJ) RAM 2500 Pickup
2014 - 2018 (DD) RAM 3500 Cab Chassis
2016 - 2018 (DF) RAM 3500 <10K Cab Chassis
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles within the following markets/countries: North
America.
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles that have had Recall V06 performed.
DISCUSSION:
Toe setting procedure for HD trucks with welded drag link recall that has been performed prior.
Before starting wheel alignment, the following inspection must be completed. Refer to the detailed
service procedures available in DealerConnect> Service Library under: Service Info> 02 - Front
Suspension / Wheel Alignment / Diagnosis and Testing> Diagnosis And Testing - Pre-
Alignment Inspection.
• Inspect tires for size, air pressure, and tread wear.
• Inspect front wheel bearings for wear.
• Inspect front wheels for excessive radial or lateral runout and balance.
• Inspect the ball studs, linkage pivot points, and the steering gear for looseness, roughness or
binding.
• Inspect the suspension components for wear and noise.
• Road test the vehicle.


REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Start the engine, turn the steering wheel both ways and center the steering wheel as best as
possible. Turn off engine.
NOTE: With the vehicle in a level position, verify the drag link/tie rod ball joints are not
twisted and are centered. Rotate drag link/tie rod until ball joints are level, top of ball
joint housing is level with the steering knuckle.
2. Adjust right wheel toe position between 0.00° and +0.20° by turning the steering wheel. Lock
the steering wheel. If left wheel toe position is within 0.00° and +0.20°, no alignment is needed.
If not, proceed to Step 3.
3. Adjust the left wheel toe position to match the right wheel position with the tie rod adjuster
sleeve. Verify the tie rod end is parallel, Refer to the detailed service procedures available in
DealerConnect> Service Library under: Service Info> 02 - Front Suspension / Wheel Alignment
/ Standard Procedure> Tie Rod Ball Stud Housing Misalignment Check. Position the clamp
bolts to their original position and tighten to the proper torque specifications per the
service information. Make sure the toe setting does not change during tightening.
POLICY:
Information Only

 

[petersonj]

basically the steering box is independent from wheel alignment and the steering shaft independent from the gear box too..

On most modern vehicles the steering shaft is indexed to the steering box input shaft and the pitman arm is indexed to the steering gear box sector shaft.

By design the sector shaft and ball nut rack have zero lash when the sector shaft is centered in the steering box. If fact, there is a slight preload on the two mating surfaces (about 8 inch/lbs of torque to move the steering input shaft) when initially assembled. This zero clearance provides instant response from the steering wheel when driving straight down the road.

When the steering wheel is turned right or left, the zero clearance between the two gears disappears and the the clearance grows rapidly between the gear teeth as the steering wheel is turned more in either direction. Nobody will ever feel this slack during turns because there is always strong feedback trying to push the steering wheel back to the center position during and coming out of turns.

In the photo below, note that the single center tooth on the sector shaft is engaged simultaneously to two teeth on the ball nut rack in the centered position. This is what gives the steering wheel that tight feel when driving straight down the road.

So, if the steering wheel is not centered in the straight ahead position after an alignment, then there will be noticeable side effects, such as when overtaking a vehicle on a two-lane road - as the vehicle crosses over the crown of the road, the driver may notice some free-play in the steering wheel. Another example could be a side wind that occasionally overcomes the road crown tug on the steering wheel, or a road crown the constantly varies in pitch. This is when the driver may feel the lack of steering precision that used to be there.

Another small side effect on a non-centered steering wheel could be that the tires may steer farther in one direction than the other

- John

 

[Ozymandias]

Also the ESP has a steering angle sensor that reads from the steering wheel, if the wheel is off centered it has al kinds of "funny" side effects.

 

[Diesel85]

Also the ESP has a steering angle sensor that reads from the steering wheel, if the wheel is off centered it has al kinds of "funny" side effects.

The ADAS system doesn't like it when things aren't aligned correctly and can cause undesirable side effects.

 

[Grumpy8811]

On most modern vehicles the steering shaft is indexed to the steering box input shaft and the pitman arm is indexed to the steering gear box sector shaft.

By design the sector shaft and ball nut rack have zero lash when the sector shaft is centered in the steering box. If fact, there is a slight preload on the two mating surfaces (about 8 inch/lbs of torque to move the steering input shaft) when initially assembled. This zero clearance provides instant response from the steering wheel when driving straight down the road.

When the steering wheel is turned right or left, the zero clearance between the two gears disappears and the the clearance grows rapidly between the gear teeth as the steering wheel is turned more in either direction. Nobody will ever feel this slack during turns because there is always strong feedback trying to push the steering wheel back to the center position during and coming out of turns.

In the photo below, note that the single center tooth on the sector shaft is engaged simultaneously to two teeth on the ball nut rack in the centered position. This is what gives the steering wheel that tight feel when driving straight down the road.

So, if the steering wheel is not centered in the straight ahead position after an alignment, then there will be noticeable side effects, such as when overtaking a vehicle on a two-lane road - as the vehicle crosses over the crown of the road, the driver may notice some free-play in the steering wheel. Another example could be a side wind that occasionally overcomes the road crown tug on the steering wheel, or a road crown the constantly varies in pitch. This is when the driver may feel the lack of steering precision that used to be there.

Another small side effect on a non-centered steering wheel could be that the tires may steer farther in one direction than the other

- John

View attachment 142550

what Sag2 said.

 

[Tuesdak]

know this is old news but I'm at the point where the Ram dealer cannot complete an alignment due to the so called fix.

The correct “procedure” is to grind off the welds and replace the nuts and sleeve it was welded too. If the new parts are not welded it triggers another recall notice!

Can you buy the new updated drag link part outright from the dealer? Then request reimbursement. I couldn’t when I went down this road. It was eventually replaced with the updated link by being authorized by FCA. IMO it’s worth buying the part even if you’re not reimbursed for it as “frugal” saving the tires. I had radial pull from mine at the first tire rotation due to alignment issues and same dealer refusal to do an alignment with welded parts reason given. It’s the biggest problem I have had with my RAM from new.

Agree this V06 recall is bad customer service from the way FCA handled it (restrictions on parts, dealers can’t solve problem without “Mother may I” approval, and refusal to align truck over welded parts ) including IMO illegal to weld steering components by DOT rules.

 

[Grumpy8811]

The correct “procedure” is to grind off the welds and replace the nuts and sleeve it was welded too. If I had radial pull from mine at the first tire rotation due to alignment issues and same dealer refusal to do an alignment with welded parts reason given. It’s the biggest problem I have had with my RAM from new.

I've spent enough seat time in 4 different Rams to have always thought that pulling to one side or wandering was normal in a Dodge Ram 4WD with a straight axle.. probably wrong headed on my part too but I've lived with it thinking it was inherent to these trucks.

 

[Ozymandias]

Once aligned to Thuren spec all these Dodge steering problems are a thing of the past. It steers like any other straight axle truck afterwards. No death wobble, no pulling, no shimmy, no nothing.
Dodge alignment spec numbers are just crap from the factory.
Rant over.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Once aligned to Thuren spec all these Dodge steering problems are a thing of the past. It steers like any other straight axle truck afterwards. No death wobble, no pulling, no shimmy, no nothing.
Dodge alignment spec numbers are just crap from the factory.
Rant over.

In 2012 I posted my alignment guys spec of 1/64” toe to stop the outside tire stepping from the factory 1/4”
toe spec. That was on my 11 DRW. Honestly it drove perfect before and after new spec. He did the same on my 15 DRW and I get more miles from my DRW’s than most.

A side note I got more S*#T because I posted fractions. My guy was old School using Hunter System and a pit.