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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Dreaded Shifter Buzz

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Trouble in Paridise!!

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This is the subject, I know, that prompts the throwing of rotted vegetables, 'cause it's been hashed-over so many times, so I broach it with a certain amount of fear and trepidation. :confused:



My friggin' transfer case shifter is buzzing like a hive of Africanized honey bees, and I haven't been able to stop it.



I've gone throug the shop manual, and read the TDR threads on the subject. I've removed both shifter boots, and spent a half hour under the truck wiggling the shifter from below, as though that exercise might suggest an obvious cure.



It didn't.



I've read about "Mitsubishi exhaust springs" that are supposed to be retrofitted over the existing shifter tensioning spring, but the only spring I could find during my under-the-truck session, looked like three loops of coiled wire (around base of shifter lever) that terminated by having its ends bent into bracket holes. There's no way, that I could figure out to add another, heavier, spring over this existing one; it's not 'round,' it's "U" shaped, so there'd be no way to slide another spring over it.



The spring on the base of my shifter is also pretty loose; it has virtually no tension at all. You can take the spring between index finger and thumb, and move it to and fro, very easily.



The white plastic lining on the top of my shift gate is still in position, and still performing its job of isolating the metal shifter shaft from the walls of the gate, so the buzzing isn't coming from there. As far as I could gather by reading about it, that was the only curable problem addressed in Dodge's TSB on the subject.



When I first bought the truck, the buzzing was only noticeable in one rpm range, and only infrequently. When it got to be a bother, I stuffed some napkins in the shifter well, and forced the shifter to the right. That worked for a couple of years. When I had a phone installed on a "stalk," I took to really pulling the shifter over, hard, and tying it off to the base of the phone stalk. That cured things for a while, too.



Now, though, nothing works. I've tried moving the shifter to every position, and sometimes I can drive along hunting the 'sweet spot,' but mostly the buzzing is now almost continuous.



I've left the two boots off, and hope that somebody can offer up the latest "silver bullet" solution to this sucker, 'cause it's really beginning to get on my nerves.



Oh, yeah—I've also searched the TDR archives, and read everything published on the subject in my back issues (back to TDR #17).



I understand that there was an old thread that dealt with this subject very comprehensively, but it has since been removed. Anybody know anything about retrieving old, inactive threads. I've used the "search" function, and couldn't find it.



I with somebody would do a TDR article, complete with pictures, on how to cure this problem, once and for all.



Thanks for any suggestions anyone cares to offer.
 
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I'm not sure if the shifter is the same or not in my truck as yours. Last time I had the shifter out, it began to buzz after I reinstalled it. I loosened and re-tightened the shifter a bunch of times and it wouldn't quit. It has stopped again now, but I don't know for how long.
 
Shifter Buzz

Take knob off, Slide piece of Amourflex( pipe insulation) 1/2"

ID i believe over shifter reinstall knob. Should stop buzz.

Old truckers trick, buzz's are caused by harmonics in drive line being out of wack just a smidgen. Give it a try, you might be suprised. Scott
 
The exhaust spring trick only works on older models. Before I installed a spring on my '95 an elastic hair tie stretched between the shifter and a partially loosen screw under the dash worked great for several years. Only problem was my daughter kept on asking when she could have her tie back.
 
illflem: I love it, man. The indignities our woman suffer.

;)



Proram: I'll go to Home Depot, and see what they've got by way of pipe insulation, tomorrow. That's a great idea. I wonder if it's simply a vibration dampener, or if I should cut the piece long enough to extend all the way down into and through the gate?



I don't know how thick the exterior walls of the insulation are, but that might really help. There's quite a bit of clearance—say 3/16"—to either side of the shifter's shaft between the shaft and the walls of the **** gate.



I wonder if this insulation (Armorflex) is sorta like plastic loom, or if it's more like water pipe insulation, a soft, pliable, foam-walled tube. . ? I'll check out what they have.



Thanks
 
Shifter Buzz

"I've read about "Mitsubishi exhaust springs" that are supposed to be retrofitted over the existing shifter tensioning spring, but the only spring I could find during my under-the-truck session, looked like three loops of coiled wire (around base of shifter lever) that terminated by having its ends bent into bracket holes. There's no way, that I could figure out to add another, heavier, spring over this existing one; it's not 'round,' it's "U" shaped, so there'd be no way to slide another spring over it. "



Sasquatch;

Here is what I did and so far it seems to have worked. First do the TSB that has you bend the spring reaction tab.

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/21-12-97.htm

Then take the exhaust spring and put it BETWEEN the two ends of the coiled spring using the ends that stick out to hold the exahust spring in place.
It takes a little work to get the new spring in, but once you get it so the ends of the old spring are in the center of the new one the effort pays off big.

Sorry no picture. If this does not make sense let me know. Oo. Oo. Oo.
 
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Tracy:



Thanks for your reply.



Here's my question for you: The spring at the base of my shifter is not, when it's "in position," a hollow tube (like a "Slinky") composed of multiple coils of tempered wire. It's looks exactly like the spring depicted in your diagram (and my '97 shop manual); it has three, maybe four, loops of wire which are fitted over a bolt. The ends of the spring are then bent into bracket anchorages.



The whole assembly, when completed, results in a "U" shaped, continuous, compressed wire.



In reading another link, the author of one "how to" wrote, "You just slide one spring inside the other, like sticking your finger into a tube. "



I'm sure this is one of those procedures where, once you've seen it done the first time, it's easy and obvious. I can't understand, though, how I'm going to get the existing spring "into" a new spring, or slide a new, larger, spring inside the old one, which is closely mated to the metal stud it's wrapped around.



Is the new spring much larger in diameter than the old? Do you have to remove the existing spring, completely, before performing this procedure? If you can describe, in a little more detail, how you managed this, I'd appreciate it.



One last thought: The TSB suggests that this repair ("bending tab," etc) is for '96-'97 model Rams. I guess my truck is, technically, a '97-'98 model. I bought it a couple of months before Dodge rolled out the first, four-door cabs (like an idiot-I couldn't wait... ). So, it's possible that we're talking about different setups, altogether, on our rigs, as "illflem" suggested.





Thanks.
 
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shifter noise

remove shifter knob, install one ear plug. install knob. no more noise , and the label does not spin in circles from driving. you know, those foam earplugs for shooting guns, they are green , orange, or yellow.
 
Buzz

Sasquatch;



I too was confused with this statement.

"You just slide one spring inside the other, like sticking your finger into a tube. ", because like you I could not see how to do that.

You are on the right track here.

"The ends of the spring are then bent into bracket anchorages. "





The ends of the existing spring stick out of the "brackets" they are attached to. I put the "new" spring horizontally between the brackets using the ends of the "old" spring to keep it in place. It is easier if you have someone sit in the truck and hold the shifter over to their right (toward the passenger) while you are doing this.
 
Tracey:



I think I follow you, now.



But, didn't you have to remove the existing spring in order to feed its ends (the ends that are trapped by the brackets) through the ends of the new spring?



That's what's confusing me. I can picture how to insert the spring into place, with the assistence of vice grips, between the brackets, but I'm having a hard time picturing how the ends of the new spring are held in place, without removing the old spring, first.



This is where some more detailed "particulars" would be helpful.



(to all those unconcerned with this saga, and beginning to swerve onto the shoulder outta boredom—stay tuned. It only gets better... ) Oo.
 
Buzzzzzzz

Originally posted by Sasquatch

Tracey:



I think I follow you, now.



But, didn't you have to remove the existing spring in order to feed its ends (the ends that are trapped by the brackets) through the ends of the new spring?No. The new spring looks similar to a valve spring. The ends of the old spring where they stick out of the bracket will hold it in place.



That's what's confusing me. I can picture how to insert the spring into place, with the assistence of vice grips, between the brackets, but I'm having a hard time picturing how the ends of the new spring are held in place, without removing the old spring, first. See above



This is where some more detailed "particulars" would be helpful.



(to all those unconcerned with this saga, and beginning to swerve onto the shoulder outta boredom—stay tuned. It only gets better... ) Oo.
If they are not interested they do not have to look at this thread
 
End of Shifter Buzzing!

Tracy, Proram et al:



The saga of the noisy shifter ended an hour ago, after I'd finished installing the exhaust valve spring. Silence now reigns supreme in the cab of my Ram. It's quieter, by far, than the day I drove it off the lot. As quiet as my old lady's Toyota Sequoia, in fact!



I took Proram's lead, first, and went to an Ace Hardware, where I purchased enough thick-walled vinyl tubing to cover the shifter shaft from the underside of the knob to the hole in the rubber boot. I wiped the shaft down with WD-40, and forced it down and over the shaft, reinstalling the knob, and crossing my fingers.



I'd say the noise in the cab was lessened about 50%, but the vibration was still there, especially (as per the TSB) at around 2000 rpms.



I picked up the exhaust valve spring, and, after bending the spring bracket, I installed it using vice-grips to compress the spring, and a compression clamp to hold the shifter knob all the way to the right in the cab.



Everything worked as advertised, folks, and I'm grateful for everybody's help and advice. Anybody who hasn't done this repair, should really consider it.



One thing is surprising: the noise that I was hearing in my truck was almost all originating from the shifter and transfer case linkages. Not just the obvious "shifter buzz" that everyone is familiar with, but other background transmission noise, too.



The truck cab is now unbelievably quiet, and I find myself wanting to drive it, again, instead of putting off errands 'till it's warm enough to put the windows down and crank the 'tunes. '



Again, guys, thanks.
 
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