2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Drill and Slotted Rotors

[APulpan]

I'm going to have to probably have some new rotors when I need a brake job which is in the very nearest future. Anybody got any ideas on brands or companies. I'm having a hard time finding both on the rotor. I can find drilled and slotted by them selves but not together. Also I came across "dimpled" and I have never here of them before. Any experiences with those?

Thanks

 

[Tuesdak]

Drilled rotors crack. Slotted gives you better benefits without the cracking. On heavy braking the slotted rotors can make a whirring noise. Benefits are getting water off faster, cooling down faster, and longer pad life. The cooling down faster part can catch you by surprise on short freeway runs where you expect hot brakes to quickly shut things down, but, you have cold brakes that take a little longer distance instead. Last consider the rotors throw away as most shops won't turn them due to tool damage risk.

I prefer the slotted rotors and went from 12K pad life on undersized 90's GM 1/2 ton breaks to 17K pad life. YMMV.

 

[JR]

I bought a set of EBC drilled and slotted rotors, they didnt last 3 years. The salt and humidity ate them up BAD. EEverytime I rotated tires I would have to dig the rust out of the slots and punch through the holes with a pick. Apparantly EBC is on the long list of manufacturers that sacrifice quality to remain price competitive.*

I've all but given up on anything from Napa as I've had alot of issues with their store brand parts over the last few years. I won't even go to autozone or advanced auto unless they have a good sale on oil or something similar.*

After much research on the internet I found some good reviews on a set of Centric rotors through RockAuto. I can't tell you what alloys were in the EBC rotors but they were low quality for sure. Most manufacturers won't even tell you what their rotors are made of so I decided to give these a shot and have been very satisfied so far. After two winters these look better than my EBC rotors did at the first tire rotation half way through their first winter. Brake performance is more than adequate for me.*


http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2043336&jnid=273&jpid=0

 

[JMcCoy]

Ebc makes two different rotors for our trucks. They make *cryoed rotor that is supposed to be much better. I have not run either, so I cannot attest to their quality. All I know is that they are more money.*

 

[BLNRAY]

check Rockauto.com

 

[Regcabguy]

I had drilled and slotted rotors on my '98.5. It yields 9% less rotor surface for the pads to work. I also had Kevlar pads.
I reverted back to NAPA premium stock rotors and their best pads.
A Pacbrake finally gave me some stopping power.

 

[APulpan]

So it sounds like the fact that the rotors can be turned I think I will go with regular flat rotors. Any brand that is better than your normal oriellys. I'd like to go with aftermarket and not Oriellys or autozone but cost may lead to Oriellys

 

[GrantP]

I've been using the powerstop brake kits on my vehicles and have been very satisfied. They have slotted/drilled rotors if you want them but I've always used the plain rotors. I don't like the additional noise of the slotted rotors. Check rock auto or summit racing (free shipping). I just did the front on my 06 for ~150 bucks.

 

[Ram Man 02]

If you watch nascar racing none of them are running drilled or slotted rotors. there is no benefit except looking cool. If you want better braking power get some good compound brake pads. thats where the stopping power is.

 

[SSage]

Old thread, but I put slotted on my old 98 SRW 4x4. They were the SSB brand, stainless steel brakes or something like that. No issues, smooth as can be. I was warping the OEM rotors, mountain driving and towing all the time. I think I stayed with the Hawk brand pads, but its been a while. Regualr name brand rotors are fine for most, I haven't felt the need to go slotted on my dually trucks.

Last time on my 95 3500 DRW 2wd I put auto parts store severe duty pads on, the original rotors are about done now. I'm on my 3rd set of front pads on the 95, repacked the bearings once.

 

[KATOOM]

Install an exhaust brake and never have brake issues again.....especially in the mountains and down long grades. I just replaced my OEM factory front pads after 115k miles. The pads actually had about 1/4" of material on them so I could have easily gone a lot longer but I changed them because the tires were off and I was bored. :-laf

 

[petersonj]

Install an exhaust brake and never have brake issues again.....

I agree with Katoom here - I changed my original front brake pads at 215,000 miles and could have easily gone another 50,000. Still operating the original rear pads at 265,000. The exhaust brake always gets actuated before the brake pedal. This is easy to do with a foot switch by the left foot.

- John

 

[JMcCoy]

Those with 00-02 trucks should upgrade to 2010 rotors and calipers. Those with 94-99 should upgrade to 92-94 or 95-97 Ford F350 spindle, hub, rotors, and calipers. Night and day difference...

 

[petersonj]

Those with 00-02 trucks should upgrade to 2010 rotors and calipers.

Interesting. A couple of questions - should both axles be modified and is there additional hardware needed?

Thank you,
- John

 

[KATOOM]

Unfortunately it would probably be cheaper just to swap the Cummins into another truck with better brakes.....

 

[petersonj]

Thanks for the info. I think I am good with what I have - I was just curious as to what would be involved. I think you answered that.

- John

 

[JMcCoy]

Unfortunately it would probably be cheaper just to swap the Cummins into another truck with better brakes.....

Very untrue. I spent less than $700 for the front. That's with new rotors, calipers, pads, hubs spindles, bearings, ball joints, outer stub axles, and seals. I still have the old parts that I can sell for a couple hundred dollars.

Half those parts probably need to be changed just for maintenance.

 

[KATOOM]

Good to know.....but for which conversion?