Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Drill & Tap for Boost Gauge?

[rblomquist]

Just ordered my Westach combo EGT/Boost from Genos but am a bit confused as Andy was telling me you had to drill and tap for both Pyro and Boost sensors and when I mentioned that I thought I'd read on here about being able to use a MAP sensor port or something to that effect to measure boost he said he had never heard of that.



Can you guys point me in the right direction, I guess I'm not searching with the right search words cause I can't seem to find a good post talking about the details of using this MAP option.

 

[BarryG]

You can drill and tap the intake horn or you can remove a plug on the driver side rear of the motor back by the lift pump put in a reducing bushing and screw your sensor into that about 1. 00 (there are 2 plugs one is for a coolant galley not that one the other one, mine had red loctite on it. Or you can go to www.piersdiesel.com and get one of his boost sensor replacement bolts that replaces one of the bolts in the intake horn and put your sensor on that 18. 00 I think.

 

[brandonwhite]

No drilling or tapping is needed for the boost guage. All you need is the adapter (3/4 to 1/8 NPT) Check here for more info

http://www.dieselpage.com/gimain.htm

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

YUP - I used the port suggested above - awkward to get to, but works fine... Be very careful when you drill and tap for the EGT probe, and don't tap all the way down - go perhaps half way with a pipe tap, try the probe for fit, then go deeper if needed - lots of guys tap too deep, and then the probe bushing bottoms out before the threads tighten = problems...

 

[rblomquist]

Thanks guys. I ordered the thingy from Piers. Good advice/tip on the EGT probe install. As a newbie to this stuff I can use all the good tips I can get!

 

[jerryrigg]

Like brandon said



This is a good write up for installing your boost gauge. .



http://www.dieselpage.com/gipda.htm



A couple additions to the instructions:



Don't start with a 7/16" bit start with 1/8" and slowly work your way up to 7/16" easier on the bits and keeps the metal shavings smaller less chance of loosing a big piece in your head or turbo



I recommend having the shop vac running while your drilling the manifold, picks up the metal as you go. . I actually got a cone nozzle for the vac cut it down to size and shoved it in the manifold then began drilling and tapping. . when your done pull the rag and you should not have to worry about any loose shavings



-Matt



edit:

the instructions don't say it but don't forget to cover the turbo before drilling/tapping

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

Goto: www.piersdieselresearch.com Get the boost fitting. I think it is under $20... ... ... ... .

 

[brandonwhite]

$20!!! Where I bought my guages they gave it to me for free. Should be a buck or to at any hardware store.

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

Originally posted by brandonwhite

$20!!! Where I bought my guages they gave it to me for free. Should be a buck or to at any hardware store.

This one replaces a bolt in the intake manifold. Real simple and easy to keep an eye on...

 

[brandonwhite]

Ok that makes more sense. I was just thinking about a brass 3/4 to 1/8 reducer

 

[PBayer]

I'M 3 for 3 in tapping the exhaust manifold. Everytime very concerned about screwing it up, but all 3 went well. Here are the sizes I used. Drill bit-21/64 and for the tap-1/8-27. Use oil as you drill and dont force it. Put a magnet inside the hole to help remove metal pieces.



Good Luck

 

[andrewkoperdak]

Here I go starting trouble again...

I chose to install my boost pickup on the intake horn on the engine. Reasoning :: This is the furthest point from the turbo and thus gives the most accurate boost reading that the engine is experiencing.



R,

Andy

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"This is the furthest point from the turbo and thus gives the most accurate boost reading that the engine is experiencing. "





HEH HEH HEH... .



BZZZzzzzt! wrong!



The port some of us are referring to above is AFTER the intake horn, down in the intake plenum area just before the intake valves...

 

[andrewkoperdak]

Gary,

Ya know being wrong is very rewarding for me as it gives me cause to learn and ponder.

Have a good night

R,

Andy

 

[DCMille290]

I used the port on the left side of engine block, up near the MAPP sensor. I first unscrewed the plug, bought a threaded nipple, then a reducer to fit the nipple to the probe for boost.

Total cost at hardware store was less than $3.

Just don't extend the nipple to far, it makes it hard reach and screw the probe into.



DC Miller

 

[THancock]

I bought one of the replacement bolts from Piers, but can't see where to pot it in the manifold. All the bolts I can see look to be on the perimiter and must go into dead end holes. Not a one sticks out as being terminated in the intake horn where pressure can get to it.

 

[John Berger]

As the crow flies, the manifold port is closer to the turbo than the intake plenum.



Another suggestion for tapping the exhaust manifold would be to use lube grease on the bit. This picks up quite a bit of the shavings. I used a magnet after I had the hole tapped and there were hardly any shavings picked up. Just take your time. Nice thing about tapping the intake plenum is that you can take it off rather easily and blow it out thoroughly before re-installing it.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"Ya know being wrong is very rewarding for me as it gives me cause to learn and ponder. "



Ain't it the truth!



And MAN, have *I* done MY share of "learning and pondering" over the years! There's hardly a day goes by that I don't learn something new of significance from various members of this group - sure does help keep a fella humble...



As far as the boost sensor bit, just playin' with ya - the spot you used is what I used on my '91 dodge - easy to get to, and undoubtedly the same readings as down in the plenum - I only used the plenum area on my '02 because I already had all the fittings...