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Any pointers on removing the rear driveshaft on a 99 LWB? I am going to get it rebalanced tomorrow and am just curious to see of big of a job it is to get it off... thx-steve
I had to have mine rebuilt when I sheared two retaining bolts on the rear yoke. The replacement DANA/SPICER joint is secured with 12 point bolts. They are inconvenient if you only have 6 point tools. Avoid 12 point replacement bolts if possible.
Like MMclain stated, remove the rear retaining straps first, the the carrier bearing if you have one. The shaft just slides out of the transmission. Getting it out is easy... getting it back in is the fun part Just a tip... tape the caps on the u-joint that comes off the differential... if you don't, needle bearings will go everywhere (not that i'm speaking from experience )
GFoley... I feel your pain... around Christmas I broke a u-joint and wound up with a 3 piece shaft :{.
So the vibration is your shaft, and not your lockup clutch? Before I knew about the notorious slipping torque converter clutch, I was convinced the vibration came from the driveshaft. Just thought I'd ask the question!
I am not sure if this will solve the vibration or not, but since I am getting the transmission reworked tomorrow I wanted to eliminate all the possibilites before hand...