Drive shaft

[dberg]

Please help. 2006 Quad Cab, Longhorn, long box, G56 Transmission, 4WD, 373 gears, 88K miles, totally stock. Truck would vibrate decelerating and shudder horribly stopping. Carrier bearing bad. I see Andy Redmond in TDR issue 86 replaced a 2 piece drive shaft (which my truck has) with one piece. Would this be a good solution for the long haul for me with the QC/LB, or should I just replace the carrier bearing? Would a one piece drive shaft be compatible? I tried a search for "drive shaft", but was not returned with any posts. Also having a bit of difficulty coming up with the correct replacement drive shaft. Thank you

 

[AH64ID]

I replaced my 2 piece with a 1 piece and bigger u-joints for less than 3 u-joints and a carrier bearing. The bigger joints took a little breakin time but I think it was a worthy upgrade.

Where are you located?

 

[cerberusiam]

Original part # is 52123162AA, probably 52123162AC by now with revisions. That is for QC LB 4x4 with 6 speed manual trans.

The other option is http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/ and have a custom 5" shaft with standard greasable u-joints built.

Unless the lift or you are doing some extreme off road driving where clearance is an issue, the 1 piece is hug benefit. The downside to the stock shaft is the non-greasable AAM joints and the hassle that entails. The downside to the custom shaft is the cost. Part of the issues with the rear DS is the flange drive on the rear diff, it is not as well machined and built as it could be which leads to random harmonics at times. The solution is lose the flanged yoke and go with a u-bolt type. Drive Shaft Specialists claim good luck with just replacing the factory tube with a full 5".

 

[dberg]

AH-64: I live in NE Missouri
Cerberusiam: Your P/N is the same as Andy Redmond's. Parts guys are never friendly to have special orders returned, I do have the G56 as opposed to the NV trans. I just want your confirmation it is the one, and I am going to get one on order (my truck is in a friend's shop, blocking him from doing anything else). My local dealer is a small town dealership. Would there be a better place to get a better price, or would shipping negate any savings?

 

[cerberusiam]

You can usually get the parts cheaper wholesale online. Here is one I use to compare and frequently buy from https://allmoparparts.com/amp-parts/#parts

Here is another https://moparonlineparts.com/mop-parts/#parts

 

[Ozymandias]

I do not buy greasable joints anymore, the non greasable last over 100000 and that is fine.
Gresables must be greased very frequently otherways they fail prematurely.

Just my opinion, in the past i only had greasable Joints.

 

[cerberusiam]

Non-greasable u-joints would be fine if they have enough high quality grease in them to last. About 50-60k and 1 or more gets hot enough to push the grease out the seal and it is done. The AAM joints do NOT have a good rep for longevity.

 

[AH64ID]

The local shops quit using anything but the OEM AAM joints due to figment and life issues. Based on additional research I have done I'll continue to run the non-greaseable AAMs.

 

[BKWelliver]

i have 100k now on my 5" one piece drive shaft from Drive Shaft Specialist with the large u-joints. zero issues. I have a 2007 4 door 4x4 dually with a G56 6 speed stick with a Carli 3 inch lift. i changed out the drive shaft in 45 minutes in my drive way. plug and play. I tow a 12K boat, go off road to hunt in nasty terrain and drive it out of state on long road trips. Its also my daily driver to work. I had the drive shaft in 2 days from order. spend the money. U wont be disapointed.

 

[Ozymandias]

Non-greasable u-joints would be fine if they have enough high quality grease in them to last. About 50-60k and 1 or more gets hot enough to push the grease out the seal and it is done. The AAM joints do NOT have a good rep for longevity.

I do always a little red moly grease in each cup when installing.