Driveline play, how to locate ?

[verk]

Hi forum. Except for the first 6-12 months since I bought the truck new, I felt like there is excessive play in the driveline. I hear and feel the thud with sudden changes in acceleration on and off the highway. This doesn't have to be excessive acceleration, just a mere change in whether engine is braking or accelerated the truck. I have vague memories of having u-joints replaced under warranty and having the problem lessen dramatically so I'm guessing u-joints, but it's worsened very gradually such I'm no longer sure. I used to go under the truck and feel for play in driveshaft, but could never feel anything that seemed excessive. Took cover off of rear differential thinking backlash a long time ago, but thought things looked good. Anybody have a good reference of how to check or determine where this play is coming from ?

Sven

 

[GCroyle]

Sven,

I'll pass on drive line diagnosis but I'll add another source of play that can be perceived as drive line play.

The clutch disc torsion damper.

It can be twisted quite a bit, maybe 30 degrees or so during accel/decel but how it responds also is dependent on speed, load, gear, RPM and is it an abrupt transition or more controlled.

Just another source of twist.

Gary

 

[cerberusiam]

If you had a DMF I would say it is time to change it, could still be clutch is worn. The other area that is a constant issue is the center support bearing, if you have one. That would mean you have QC LD truck, if not then it is something in the drive train.

 

[GCroyle]

cerb,

NV5600 in his sig, no DMF. But similar issue is possible, DMF and torsion damper in disc to boot.

 

[inlinesix3million]

I have an 04.5 with those symptoms also. 150,000 miles on the ODO. I am currently looking at replacing the clutch with an appropriate upgrade ( stock motor towing 10,000 occasionally. ) and
going with a one-piece aluminum rear drive shaft. Am wondering if I should get oversized U-joints on shaft? I was quoted $795 for 1480 5inch shaft from Driveshaft Specialists in San Antonio.
Would bigger joints be advisable to minimize this play? I would like to have a much tighter feeling driveline. Eventually upgrading other components in the future is fine by me. I do not race or
abuse it- just want it tight and to last (forever) ha ha

 

[cerberusiam]

Once you replace the 2 piece DS there is no slack other than what is in the trans and t-case. The 1480's are about as big as you can go and still get a yoke for the rear axle. Highly recommend you ditch the flange and get a u-bolt style yoke also.

 

[verk]

I saw from my receipts that I reported this driveline play to the dealer after just 8,400 miles and I can remember that there was none of this play when I first bought the truck. At 68,000 rear driveshaft u-joint service was performed by dealer under warranty. I remember this improved the situation dramatically, but I think the play came back relatively quickly once again. Like inlinesix3million I'm stock and don't tow anything. I don't want this play as it feels excessive, but I already have standard one piece driveshaft with 140.5" wheelbase truck. My clutch is original, but behaves well and given history I'm going to assume my problem is u-joints. So, put in Spicer 5-3206X or Mopar (05102157AE) u-joints or something else ? U-bolt style yoke worthwhile in my situation ?

 

[inlinesix3million]

i just replaced factory setup with 1 piece 5inch aluminum shaft with 1555 joints. Got it from 6 states in Twin Falls, ID for $301.00..... Took some of my play out of the driveline. I will next remove
the front shaft and test drive. Then grease and reinstall.I still have a road speed related buzzing in the driveline. Hopefully the front driveshaft removal helps isolate it....

 

[inlinesix3million]

It will be Thanksgiving week before I get to it, but, I plan to remove my front driveshaft and grease it while on the bench. Will also take apart at the slip yoke and grease as well. I know to mark
it all up for reinstall before removal. I hope this will diminish some of what can be felt when 1st getting on or letting up on the throttle.

 

[verk]

Hi inlinesix3million. Did you get satisfying results with changes ?

 

[Prairie Dog]

The one piece makes a dramatic difference - you wont be sorry you went that way!
But no UJ is going to have less play because they shouldn't have any play no matter what size they are. If you have slop in the joints then they need replacing NOW.

 

[verk]

Thanks for reply Prairie Dog. One piece driveshaft from factory with 140.5" wheelbase of my truck. What I take away from this thread is that, most likely, the problem is u-joints, possibly clutch related. Not clear whether NV5600 or transfer case can actually have excess play ? With 140,000 my clutch could be close to end of life so perhaps time to get the replacement clutch and do the u-joints at the same time. It's been so long since this issue began so I'm thinking to revisit. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[inlinesix3million]

Hello Sven, sorry it took so long to reply. I see that you have an 04 versus my 04.5. I am jealous... my oil gets dirty so quickly. Upon replacing my stock 2 piece with the 1 piece aluminum,

upgrading my clutch , and checking/servicing my front driveshaft, I have determined that it will never feel like a Porsche. ( Ha Ha ) I noticed an improvement when I upgraded the shaft- but, it

still had some slop...could be in the transmission ,or the transfer case. ( or the rear end ? ) I think it will be fine. Simply take a beat between letting out the clutch and hitting the fuel.

 

[verk]

I'm starting to come around to the same conclusion inlinesix3million. Would be easier if I didn't remember when I first bought the truck on how tight things felt. Thanks for replying.