Driver side rear top shock bolt removal

[navyjoe]

3500 06 2WD DRW

I cant seem to find a way to get my socket to the top rear nut on the shock on the drivers side rear. There is a suspension bracket blocking access. Do you have to remove the tires or is just easier to break off that factory nut tab and remove it from the spare tire side?

One other thing. What size is that darn nut and bolt? I thought it was 13/16, but all of my sockets have a hard time fitting over it (of 4 different sockets only one would fit and it was tight). Even bought a new 13/16 Kobalt impact socket from Lowes and it wont fit at all. My metric sockets are either too small or too large. I'm a little perplexed on this.

 

[p-Bar]

Most that stuff is metric

 

[Bill Stockard]

I've replaced the shocks on my formerly owned '03 3500 DRW rear wheel drive truck twice, with the last time about 6 or 7 years ago and my old memory is a bit "sketchy" on the details, I don't remember much, but I do remember I used a 3/8" drive metric socket and extensions connected to my 3/8" drive air impact wrench. A 1/2 inch air impact could also be used with an 3/8" to 1/2" adapter. I worked on the head of the bolt from outside the fender liner and held the flag nut from turning with channel locks.. It was very tight access, but did work. I placed the shock on the upper bolt first and then connected the bottom of the shock to the axle bracket last. When retightening the bolt, I allowed the flag nut to catch on the bracket which made It easy.

I also replaced the shocks on another TDR member's '03 3500 SRW rear wheel drive truck about 10 years ago; however, IIRC, I had to remove the fender liner to gain access to the head of the bolt.

Bill

 

[navyjoe]

Most that stuff is metric

Thanks p-Bar. I'm not home so I dont have a full set of tools. Must be 22mm since a 23 is too big.

A side note. I see you have a Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass. I had that on my 98 and kept it for my 06 but it not recomended by Amsoil on my model? Any thoughts on as to why they say dont use a dual unit??

 

[p-Bar]

A side note. I see you have a Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass. I had that on my 98 and kept it for my 06 but it not recomended by Amsoil on my model? Any thoughts on as to why they say dont use a dual unit??

I think they throw codes such as low oil pressure at start up . Never have had a problem

 

[navyjoe]

Thanks bill. Apparently I just dont have the correct metric socket in my portable tool kit. Seems like no matter how much you try to take with you there is always something you need at home. I was hoping to be able to try the new shocks on the trip home.I may just take it to a local shop and pay, but I hate too since it seems like they invariably mess something up.

When you went thru to that bolt on the DRW did you have to remove the tires or was jacking up the frame clearance enough?

I've replaced the shocks on my formerly owned '03 3500 DRW rear wheel drive truck twice, with the last time about 6 or 7 years ago and my old memory is a bit "sketchy" on the details, I don't remember much, but I do remember I used a 3/8" drive metric socket and extensions connected to my 3/8" drive air impact wrench. A 1/2 inch air impact could also be used with an 3/8" to 1/2" adapter. I worked on the head of the bolt from outside the fender liner and held the flag nut from turning with channel locks.. It was very tight access, but did work. I placed the shock on the upper bolt first and then connected the bottom of the shock to the axle bracket last. When retightening the bolt, I allowed the flag nut to catch on the bracket which made It easy.

I also replaced the shocks on another TDR member's '03 3500 SRW rear wheel drive truck about 10 years ago; however, IIRC, I had to remove the fender liner to gain access to the head of the bolt.

Bill

 

[navyjoe]

Socket size is 21mm

Well I found an old socket set and it had the 21mm socket that is the correct fit. Hope this helps someone in the future!

 

[navyjoe]

Bill you where right on target. I removed the fender liner without removing the tires (by the hardest) and it is a straight shot into that nut. For convenience I also removed the spare tire. Thanks for the tip!

I've replaced the shocks on my formerly owned '03 3500 DRW rear wheel drive truck twice, with the last time about 6 or 7 years ago and my old memory is a bit "sketchy" on the details, I don't remember much, but I do remember I used a 3/8" drive metric socket and extensions connected to my 3/8" drive air impact wrench. A 1/2 inch air impact could also be used with an 3/8" to 1/2" adapter. I worked on the head of the bolt from outside the fender liner and held the flag nut from turning with channel locks.. It was very tight access, but did work. I placed the shock on the upper bolt first and then connected the bottom of the shock to the axle bracket last. When retightening the bolt, I allowed the flag nut to catch on the bracket which made It easy.

I also replaced the shocks on another TDR member's '03 3500 SRW rear wheel drive truck about 10 years ago; however, IIRC, I had to remove the fender liner to gain access to the head of the bolt.

Bill