2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Driveshaft carrier bearing replacement?

[GrantP]

At 150k I've developed a minor driveshaft vibration at 55 mph, the u-joints are all original. I'm pretty sure the u-joints are dried up based on the fact that I just had to replace a bone dry front axle u-joint. I've already purchased replacement u-joints and a carrier bearing (should arrive in a few days). My question is regarding the removal of the carrier bearing from the driveshaft. The factory manual says to use an OTC 1130 bearing splitter which costs more than all of the replacement parts did! Has anyone had any success driving the bearing off/on with a soft punch or is the puller a necessity? I've never had a truck with a 2 piece driveshaft prior to this one so I've never replaced a carrier bearing before. The carrier bearing may not even be bad yet, but while I'm "in there" it's going to get replaced too. I'm going to dive into the replacement this weekend and I'm just looking for some advice from others who've had to replace the carrier bearing... thanks.

 

[fest3er]

If you are replacing the bearing, destroy it.

On my F150, I used a Dremel and composite wheel to cut a slot in the pressed-on race, then a cold chisel to crack the race; it 'fell off' after that. Then I painstakingly tapped the new race onto the shaft, using something softer than the race.

I've still got the original rear shaft u-joints on my '98 at 270K miles, and original carrier bearing. The front axle u-joints are known to dry up often; I've replaced them often, too.

 

[GrantP]

Wow, I've never even approached 100k on a u-joint in any previous truck, 270k is amazing. If it wasn't for the vibration that just recently started I wouldn't be going down this path. Thanks for the tip.

 

[SRath]

I know I have said this a lot lately, but do yourself a big favor and spend $6 for a new set of Spicer u-joint straps and bolts. They come as a kit and are designed to stretch and to only be used once.

If they allow the u-joint to slop around even just a little, it will hammer your yoke ears and the Dana 80 yoke is $144 plus seal and a new nut. Just went through all this myself.

 

[HHhuntitall]

I've replaced several bearings on most all of my Dodges, and I dissasemble the slip yoke and press the old bearing off, and press a new one one. I made my own tools with some chromoly pipe in a lathe to press the new one back on. When I'm in a big hurry, I get Inland truck to do it, and usually get them to balance it while at it. I know on my last job, I had to put U-joints in one of my '97 2x4 3500s, and when I took it in to get it balanced, they said the rubber around the vibration damper was gone, and they did away with that. It really smoothed the truck out. I don't know if it was the damper or the U-joints, and i had them replace the carrier bearing while they were there, but it's much smoother now. I've built many driveshafts for custom trucks, and I never use the vibration dampers, and I've never had any problems. Take that for what I'm worth. NO, take that for what it's worth, I'm not worth very much!!



Good luck,

God bless,



Casey

 

[SRath]

Mine has no dampner ring. It is solid steel. I asked the local driveline shop manager just what purpose it serves and he told me it is mostly for the flywheel effect on manual transmission trucks like mine and supposedly helps shifting by maintaining driveshaft velocity in between gears. It's effects are marginal at best, in his opinion, and even less on an automatic transmission truck.