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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Driveshaft vibration with Skyjacker 4.5" lift

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After I installed the Skyjacker 4. 5" add-a-leafs my truck developed what I'm pretty sure is a vibration in the drive shaft. It's most evident in 2nd gear an half way through 3rd, but that's it. I think I am going to try shimming the center bearing down about a 1/2". Anybody else with a 4. 5" lift in the rear have similar problems, and it so how did you fix them? TIA;)
 
I have the same lift and haven't had any problems except the driveshaft is pulled about an inch out of transfer case causing it to slowly leak but not enough to get on the driveway just all over the fuel tank. Did you put the shim kit that came with lift in? Should have been a shim about a half inch or so. If you didnt get it let me know and I can measure mine to give you an exact height and maybe get one from a local parts store. Good luck kevin
 
Kevin, thanks for the help. I didn't get Skyjackers full 4. 5" kit. I first put in their 2. 5" kit and didn't like how it looked (too close to level) so I got the 4. 5" add-a-leafs after the fact through Summit Racing. I was planing on making the shims after I called Skyjacker and they said they don't have any shims for Dodge center bearings, only Ford. :rolleyes:
 
Kevin,



You may not have to accept that leak at the rear of your transfer case. Just because the shaft doesn't extend into the case as far as it used to, it still shouldn't leak. There is a seal at the rear of the case. It's easy to change.



I discovered mine leaking when I was under the truck for something else. It initially appeared that the leak was coming from one of the case split joints, but careful inspection revealed that the rear seal was the culprit. Fluid was running down the tailshaft housing to the more forward location where it was dripping off the transfer case. My case is a 241HD.



I changed the rear seal. The job was very simple and can be done with a punch or chisel and hammer. The first step is to drain the fluid. Even if you do drain the transfer case, some fluid will still run out the tail when the driveshaft is removed. While the fluid is draining, remove the rear driveshaft. Remove the four small (8mm wrench) bolts from the u-joint at the axle. Pry or otherwise loosen the u-joint. Wrap the joint with tape to keep the bearing caps installed. Pull the shaft from the case, and be prepared for fluid on your floor. Use a pan or rag to avoid my mistake.



There was a black neoprene dust cover at the very back. Beneath that was the actual seal. The dust cover just pulls off, but you have to pull fairly hard. The way to remove the seal is to bend it in along one edge so that it kinks. This will remove the pressure around the circumference and allow you to pull it out fairly easily. You may need to do some prying with a screwdriver or similar tool.



I tried that method, but I was trying to bend it at the wrong place. Study the seal. The edge of the seal extends all the way to the edge of the case. Since I didn’t realize this until later, the way I removed my seal was to drive a hole in it with a punch. Then I screwed a screw into the hole and pried on the screw with a claw hammer.



The new seal is a one-piece unit, incorporating both the seal and the dust cover. I don’t know which of these is the part number because both numbers were shown on my receipt. First number: 5086054. Second number: 21060012. It’s an expensive seal. Retail is about $40.



To install the seal, locate the drain hole in the dust cover part of the seal and position that at the bottom. Grease up the outer ring and the inner sealing surface and push the seal into the housing as far as you can by hand. Mine would go in almost halfway. Using a block of wood and a hammer, drive the seal until it’s snug all the way around. Install the drive shaft, REFILL THE TRANSFER CASE (about 3 quarts of ATF), and you are done. I put a note over the speedometer panel to remind myself to fill the case.



I’ve driven about 100 miles since I did mine, and so far it's not leaking again.



Good luck.



Loren





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Originally posted by MPagnucco

After I installed the Skyjacker 4. 5" add-a-leafs my truck developed what I'm pretty sure is a vibration in the drive shaft. It's most evident in 2nd gear an half way through 3rd, but that's it. I think I am going to try shimming the center bearing down about a 1/2". Anybody else with a 4. 5" lift in the rear have similar problems, and it so how did you fix them? TIA;)



Shims, shims, shims. Garrentee this is your problem. I have the 4. 5 Skyjacker Packs with an add-leaf and shims and have zero vibration. Mine are part of the spring pack so if you buy shims that require un-doing the spring pack, just be carful when un-screwing the packs bolt and nut. Those things have some load to them.
 
kbond, the shims you're talking about, are they angled shims that turn the axle to correct the pinion angle?



Diesel Freak, I'm pretty sure that it's just bad angles in the driveline. Before the lift I had about 20,000 miles with no problems. BTW it is a long bed.
 
Originally posted by MPagnucco

kbond, the shims you're talking about, are they angled shims that turn the axle to correct the pinion angle?



Diesel Freak, I'm pretty sure that it's just bad angles in the driveline. Before the lift I had about 20,000 miles with no problems. BTW it is a long bed.



Yep. They fit under the leaf packs and once the pack is u-bolted down, they force the pinion angle to point up. Just make sure you don't put them in backwards otherwise you will get the oposite effect.
 
You have to have the shimms/wedge on the springs to get the pinion angle. Since it is a long box I am sure you will need to get a good size spacer on that carrier as well.



Since I have a short box I had no problem with the rear shaft.

Only issue I had was the front since my lift actually came out to about 5 inches or a little more.



Bill
 
I recently installed a USGear overdrive that added length to the transmission package. The instructions that came from USGear discuss driveshaft problems.



One suggestion made by USGear is to convert a two-piece driveshaft to a one-piece. In some installations this will solve some problems with the angles. You may want to consider this route.



Loren
 
Actually, I fixed the problem today. I made four 1/4" steel spacers and put them between the crossmember on the frame and the center bearing support. Problem solved:D
 
Thanks for the advise I will replace the seal once it warms up. The dealer has replaced it once under warranty but it started leaking again shortly after. I have allot of work to do to the truck. Thanks again Kevin
 
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