2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Drop tank or remove the bed ?

[JPLB22]

I have gone through 2 LP's in 4000 miles and I'm extremely upset about it. But I remember reading that it might be a good idea to check the membrane/screen that covers the pick up line in the tank. So I am wondering what is the easiest way to access the top of the tank, drop the tank, or remove the bed ??



This is probably my LAST Carter pump, I will be going the FASS route. I would definately like to check this membrane before installing any more pumps.



Also please give an idea of whats invloved in either way of accessing the top of the tank.



TIA



Jeff

 

[AKAMAC]

Looks like the bed is the way to go!



http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113155

 

[Mad Bomber]

tank?

I have droped the tank all alone it can be done. Run the tank down have some empty 5 gallon jugs around. I used my floor jack and a 2X4 when it was down I empted it the rest of the way and put it back up. BTW GET THOSE SCREENS OUT OF THERE. Mine would NOT drain the fuel out of the screen it just sat there.

 

[wtfd6]

It is much easier...

to remove the bed. Actually all you have to do is tilt the bed. Take out the four driver side bolts. Disconnect the fuel fill. Disconnect the tail light harness. Loosen the passenger side bolts almost all the way. And I always remove the rear bumper just to be safe. There might also be a ground strap I cant remember. Then have a 2x4 that is approximately 18 inches long to hold the bed up. And you should have ample room to access the top of the tank. The only other thing i can think of is removing fifth wheel rails if you have them.

 

[JPLB22]

It is sounding like the bed might be the eaiser method. I will have a second set of hands to help me also. I am hoping that the membrane IS clogged. The price of the FASS is going to be hard to swing at the moment, and if the membrane is clogged I've got a nice collection of LP's to find one that will get through for a little while.



I plan on doing it this Saturday, I'll report back on how it goes.



Thanks



Jeff

 

[CumminsPower98]

I have used the bed method twice now, once on mine and once on another truck. I removed all bolts except the two rear ones, which I loosened most of the way. Remove the fuel filler and ground strap on the right and lift away. No need to remove the bumper this way.

 

[DBentley]

The good thing about removing the bed is its a good time to look everything over that you cant normally see and paint up the frame and rearend with some gloss black. Sure looks nice when your done

 

[JPLB22]

Well I just finished it up about half an hour ago.



I used the bed tilt method, leaving in the two bolts at the rear. After the bed was up I was able to kneal down right in front of the driver side rear tire, with the fuel tank module right in front of me. The hardest part was cracking the lock nut on the module loose, ended up having to use a hammer and a piece of wood.



Once the module was out I poped off the bottom of the module and inspected the membrane. It was perfectly clean, my truck has 48,000 miles on it. But I figured the membrane could still be a restriction so I just left the bottom of the module off. Put everything back together and the truck runs fine, no increase in fuel pressure though. But now when I put the FASS on I will know there is no restriction in the tank.



Thanks for the help !



Jeff

 

[JPLB22]

Also, I don't think I lost any ability for the module to draw fuel from as low in the tank as it did before.



Jeff

 

[NPloysa]

Once the bed is lifted enough, is there room to get to the inside of the frame by the fuel tank? I am doing air ride and my mount goes right outside the tank. I can't put the nuts on from the bottom due to the tank in the way, almost touching the frame. Is there more room on the top or do I need to drop the tank too?

 

[JPLB22]

Honestly NPloysa I didn't notice how much room there was between the frame and the tank at the top. I do know that I had the bed high enough that I could have laid on top of the tank if I wanted to. So if there is enough room between the tank and the frame rail you will have plenty of room to work.



But I do have a question about me taking off the bottom of the fuel module, will there still be a resivoir of fuel ??



On my way to work tonight, I lost all fuel pressure, and the truck barely ran. My first thought was that there was sloshing in the tank and no resivoir of fuel in the module, so it started sucking air. But when I got back home to get my wifes car I tried the starter bump and got nothing but silence. So the LP is dead. But it made me wonder what the guys who have gotten rid of their membranes in the module have done. Because what I've done seems to be a risk of sucking air when the tank is low and there is sloshing.



What do you guys think ??



Jeff

 

[Scheibins]

I have droped the tank all alone it can be done. Run the tank down have some empty 5 gallon jugs around. I used my floor jack and a 2X4 when it was down I empted it the rest of the way and put it back up. BTW GET THOSE SCREENS OUT OF THERE. Mine would NOT drain the fuel out of the screen it just sat there.

MadBomber,

Was this in your 2001?



Jeff,

I'm not sure how many people have removed their screen with success. I searched the subject for a while. I saw where one guy replaced the whole unit. Ncosstlle (sp) with his varible output LP write up said there was a spring behind the mesh setup. I don't think he ever removed it. I have a thread on the subject with no replies as of yet. I'm not sure if this is as common of a procedure as I first thought. Sorry I don't have any anwsers for you, just trying to spark some more info about it.



Jay

 

[JPLB22]

I just reversed the process today .



I was doing some research last night at work, and found some pictures posted by NCOSTELO. In his pics it showed the bottom of the fuel module with the membrane cut out. He labeled the spring in his pic, a check valve spring. And with me totaly removing the bottom of the module, I no longer had the check valve spring. So today I replaced the bottom of the module and put on an old semi operational LP. Everything ran fine. I'm pretty sure my short drive without the bottom of the module and check valve spring was the cause of my problems. I figured since my membrane was perfectly clean after 48,000 miles I might as well leave it in there when I put back on the bottom of the module.



I felt really stupid last night when I realized what I had done.



I just hope there wasn't too much damage done to the VP44 yesterday. It took me about 5 min. to get back home with 0 psi at the inlet to the VP44.



Jeff

 

[Mad Bomber]

Screens

MadBomber,

Was this in your 2001?



Jay[/QUOTE





Yes it was seems to help the FP with less restriction

 

[tractorface]

I was worried too

I built and installed a custom setup in my truck a couple of months ago and have had no problems with sloshing fuel at all. See my Readers rig pics for what I did, basically just a 1/2" pipe with a 3/4" foot set down to within about 3/4" from the bottom of the tank. Holes drilled in side to keep from ever sucking the bottom of the tank closed are about 1" from the bottom. With that said, if you stare at your tank a little while you will notice it was built with a sump, er at least a belly where the pick up tube would go if DC did not install a VP killing Hot fuel bucket in our trucks. By the way the flow out of the stocker varies greatly from truck to truck and sometimes pulses :{



I staye awake nights designing this thing over and over in my head and finally decided I was nuts and just went with a straight pickup tube assembly. I am sure there may be a better way but... ..... I am currently 400 miles into this tank with no problems yet I keep 5 gallons in the bed and push it a little further each week "C'mon Kramer we are way below E" No actually unlike the Sienfeld episode I don't get a thrill from cutting it close. I think I can get to about 6 gallons without a problem but I have had the truck 3 years and never ran it below 9 gallons so... ... I am happy with not having any BS in my tank. I may add a second tank in the bed and never worry again

n :-laf

Go ahead and take the plunge. oh, BTW the screen, spring whatever has nothing to do with keeping fuel in the bucket. There is a float in the bottom that serves as a one way valve. Dc worried about people running there diesels down like people in gassers do and ended up designing a real POS fuel system.

 

[PCrable]

I need to replace the fuel level sending unit in my truck at some point and had this same question... drop tank vs. raise the bed.



If I have a Reese 5th wheel hitch in the bed with the rails, would that make more bolts for me to have to remove to lift the bed ?



Thanks,

--Phil

 

[wtfd6]

just the bolts that hold the rails to the bed/frame brackets.

 

[DanielH]

I just did the tank drop method on, I don't have the luxury of lifting the bed, it's welded on. The biggest problem was that the driveshaft support bearing had to come out to get the tank hanger out. I ran the tank down to where the sending unit quit working ( 1/4 tank ) and didn't have too much trouble. The tank was actually about 1/2 full ( bad sender ).

Don't forget to disconect the fuel lines, power conector, fill hose and vent before droping it very far. Also once the tank starts tiping and the fuel runs to the low end it tips pretty fast. The fuel hoses have quick disconects that work good once you figure out how to use them. Just squeeze the tabs together and pull the lines off.

I slid the tank out from under the truck before removing the module. It stays full of fuel and will dump all over you if you remove it under the truck. You can snap off the strainer and pull the float out to drain the module without tipping it over. Don"t make the mistake of not pushing the float back up through the check valve hole like I did the first time. The check valve will plug the inlet and you will run out of fuel in about 1/2 mile.

The bottom of the module is made to slide up and down with the movement of the bottom of the tank and the slots will probably be worn out. I took the screws out added a 1/4" flat washer to each one and replaced them. This locks the lower module in place in the upper position that it looked like it had been riding, maybe I won't have any more metal shavings in my tank. The strainer riding on the bottom of the tank also wears a hole in the strainer over time.

My thoughts on why DC put such an elaborate module in our trucks is so when you are 4 wheeling and go up or down hills the fuel goes to the front or rear of the tank. The module keeps some fuel under the pickup tube for a while.

Sorry about the long post, I got carryed away.