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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Drops to idle - Is it the VP44 or the APPS?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Valve Adjustment

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Engine Lope...how?

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Was just starting to build some confidence in this truck after "hardening" most of the weak points. Its been flawless for some time, and runs fantastic.



Took a trip to Death Valley, Ca. (no trailer) (was not a scorching day - maybe 90 degrees out) As soon as we pulled the grade and started down into the valley. . the engine lost all power, dropped to idle, check engine light came on.



In about 10 seconds the throttle came back, and it ran normal again. Being very hesitant to turn it off down in the Valley (figures it would happen there), I did by the Stovepipe Wells resort. Check codes, only a 1693 & pdone. It happened about 5 times on the return trip, but never died and left me stranded at least (whew!).



Symptoms:



Runs excellent 99% of time



Just after doing a little work, (like climbing a grade - or taking off fast), after about 30 seconds to a minute later (while things are cooling off), it drops to idle - dead throttle for 10 seconds.



Check engine light - code 1693 only.



After 10 seconds, comes back to normal.



So, do I need a new VP44?

Or replace the Apps?



Thanks for reading...



Edited: FYI - Fuel pressure is 13. 5 idle & never drops below 12 under full throttle.
 
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had a truck come in the shop last month, it did the sane thing. I put in another apps, worked for about a day and did the same thing. It would do it a couple of times then run fine. I would wiggle and pull the plug-in out under the apps and then put it back in. Again, would work fine, then it would do it all over again. Then i went back to my biggest helper on 24 valve engines, Anti-Oxident grease. This is mainly used on aluminum electrical connections. You can buy it at most hardware stores. It does wonders. Just pull the plug in, grease it up, (can't put too much), then plug it in. Its been almost a month and no problems. To truelly fix the problem, you need to do like i did last month, ..... put a P-7100 inline mechanical pump on your 24v engine, good luck!
 
Shortshift, exact same thing happened on my '98 24-valve, new APPS fixed it (not cheap, but a lot cheaper than a VP-44!).



Reb. B makes a great point, use dielectric paste on every connector under the hood you can get to.



Vaughn
 
My truck goes in tommorw for the same thing. I lost all the smoke I used to have with the injectors. Truck would hit 2000 rpm and when you were in the throttle you would hit the windshield as it ran out of fuel. Never did die, nor did I have a engine light come on, but saw gray smoke come out the pipe in high gear when I punched it, nothing. Boost went from 36psi down to 28psi, EGT's couldn't get to 1000. Fuel pressure constant 20psi.



Truck back to stock now, (and does that blow), all seems OK? Still takes some time to get to 60mph. I did lose my companian code 1693, gained the 0460 code. Should prove intresting in the AM to see what the dealer says.



Oh well it was worth taking a day off to see what they come up with.



Short shift, let me know how yours comes out, I will post what they find or don't find on mine on. All my connectors have been greased from they day I have owned it. So I am real curious to see what they say, but stock bites... ... ... ... ... ..... :(
 
My truck was doing the same thing going down to idle while on the highway especially if you just given it some throttle. The dealer put VP-44 in it everything was fine again. I lived with the truck acting up for about 5 months just because I was too busy to get it to the dealer and I can tell you it will start cutting out more and for longer periods if its the injector pump. Mine was cutting out for about 30 seconds at a shot before I got it fixed. You can turn the key off with the truck in gear and turn it right back on and the power will come right back if you need it in a hurry.
 
To All, Thanks for the input I appreciate it.



Looks like the next logical step is to see if the *eeler can pull anymore codes, & go from there.



It may be a while till I have time to take it in, but will follow up & post the outcome for others.



Was wondering if it is the APPs, is that available though Cummins, or does it have to come from the , well. . you know. . d. . uhh dd uhm dee dealer? gulp
 
It is a dealer only item. You have to buy the whole assy.

The dealer sales it for about $450. I think mopar for less is about 325 or something like that. I'm using a bad memory stick to come up with these numbers.

Btw, mine did that 4 times in the last 7 months, until I changed it a couple of weeks ago. No problems yet.



Don't wait til after it does it to you driving 70mph in the rain, in traffic and you have to make a quick decesion. I was lucky. I could have been severely rear ended.
 
Follow Up - It Was The APPS.

It was the APPS.



Replaced it in about 30 minutes (its a simple job), and went for about a 1000 mile trip. The problem is gone. It had gotten to the point to where sometimes it would cut out 3 times in 10 minutes of driving. Now after the long trip, it was flawless. The throttle response is smoother also so the APPS was definitely on its way out, and I have no problem with the ECM dropping to idle when it detects a possible error in the APPS signal. I just wish DC would make a revised part, because it seems like there have been alot of APPS failures reported in these threads, and the stinkin part is 350 bucks for a little sensor.



Thanks again for the input above. It was helpful.



Happy New Year!
 
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