Here I am

Dual Mass Flywheel keep or not

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

#6 injector removal tips

Front axle 4X4 disconnect possible ?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I just bought an 07 Dodge 2500 SLT 4x4 5.9 G56 6 speed with 156,000 miles. The truck is vibrating mainly at idle but can be felt all through the rpm ranges rolling or still. The seller thought the clutch had been replaced by the previous owner. I've read all the posts I can find about the DMF verses the SMF and understand the concepts and eliminating a failure point by going with the SMF. I plan to pull a 10k camper and keep the truck close to stock, maybe adding an older Edge EZ which adds around 50 hp. My concern is will the SMF cause the transmission to fail earlier because of passing the added engine vibrations to the transmission?

Thank you in advance,

JLTIII

07 2500 SLT 5.9 4x4
 
Adding the 6.7 fluid damper or a regular Fluid Damper will help. A better fluid than OE and not abusing it will help a lot more.

The DMF is more an NVH item than it is functionality, it addresses more things than a simple fluid damper so it was more cost effective.
 
If you want to keep NVH at a minimum, at the expense of driveline duarbility, then keep the DMF, but be sure to add no power modifications. Even 50 hp added can slip the oem clutch and help destroy the DMF. An SMF upgrade with a better clutch (many od us use the Southbend single disc hybrid) results in a little more noise and or vibration, in my experience only at low RPMs, but definitely is a MUCH more robust driveline for towing and adding power.
 
Last edited:
as the dmf fails it puts side stress on the g56 and ruins the g56 housing if you do not catch it in time. efi live is the best choice by far smarty jr next. we tow extremely heavy in the mountains at 425 hp and 900+ ft lbs torque. oil type and quantity is critical in the g56. I do not see where you live but here go's if you live where id does not get into the teens very often you can use the straight 50 wt listed below, you can get the delvac equal at ww granger, the delo at chevron distributor Castrol at o'rileys ( order) the numbers are o'riley and amsoil part #'s if you live in a colder area you will need to blend a 50-50 mix of royal purple syncromax or amsoil 5w-30 manual transmission fluid, I see where the new bottles do not list 5-30 on it. fill the transmission two quarts over full. and use the straight 50 in the transfer case. we also think the fluidamper or 6.7 is a good idea.
Delo Synthetic Transmission Fluid SAE 50 delivers exceptional all-climate, year-round performance in heavy duty truck transmissions. A unique additive package can protect gears without using the “active sulfur” agents commonly found in automotive axle oils. This results in little to no corrosion and long life for copper-containing parts, such as oil coolers, bushings, and thrust washers. Good pumpability in extreme hot or cold temperatures promotes smooth shifting and efficient power transfer. It is specifically formulated to meet the latest extended drain requirements for Eaton transmissions, with drain intervals of up to 500,000 miles.
Synchromax is recommended for manual transmissions
that specify an automatic transmission fluid or motor oil.
It is also ideal for transfer cases and 2-cycle motorcycle
gear boxes.
Synchromax is formulated with Royal Purple’s synthetic,
proprietary Synerlec additive technology, offering
improved shift quality over a wide temperature range and
reduced gear noise.
Synchromax is fully compatible with all types of friction
materials and offers excellent corrosion and oxidation
protection without affecting the soft metals commonly
found in manual transmission synchronizers.
Performance Advantages
• Greater wear protection
• Smoother shifts
• Excellent rust / corrosion protection
• Reduces friction for more power
• Lowers operating temperatures

Castrol 50 wt is syngear CD50 o’rileys p/n syn 50-5
Amsoil FT F05-EA
#ad
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I got rid of the DMF in mine and i don't have any vibration or excess gear noise, truck runs pretty smooth and i do have a Triple dog Bullydog power upgrade , i run on tow mode only, used to slip the dmf all the time, changed mine out at 124,000 miles, Glad i did, i am thinking about the 6.7 fluid dampner too, just to be on the safe side, Monte
 
There is a good chance the DMF is already gone and already has the SMF, thats why the transmission noise/vibration.

Nick
 
I really appreciate all the input. What a wealth of information. I'm fixing to get it in the shop this week and will let you know what we find and do. I'm new to the TDR and live in Ocala, North Central Florida.

Thank you,

Jim
 
What's wrong with the red rubber boot?, Monte

The oem silicone boot under the shifter is what actually keeps the G56 fluid from slopping out the top if the shift tower. Problem is that the original oem boot was THIN and would easily tear under normal use, thus allowing transmission fluid and/or vapors to leak into the cab. Many people, myself included, found that using a generic CV boot joint made from thick silicone or natural rubber, was an effective, HD option that cost much less then simply replacing the oem boot with another which would then tear again. All that being said, apparently Mopar has since upgraded the oem boot to a thicker one that is NOT prone to tearing, so some people just buy it, though I would venture that it still costs much more then the Dornan generic boot which can be had for less then $20.
 
OK, Thanks, Haven't looked at mine, guess i will when it warms up some, The one suggested sells pretty cheap on Amazon, Thanks again, Monte
 
The vibration at idle is probably a worn out DMF. Get the South Bend flywheel and clutch kit. If it were mine, bought used like you did and without knowing if it had towed heavy, I would check for stretch in the case at the mainshaft; if you need more shim, rebuild the trans now before expensive stuff breaks.
 
Or you can do what I started to plan for. I'm going to change out the G56 for an NV5600. I'm still in the research stage and have a possible transmission lined up, a TDR Member "MMier" has one in his garage, I'm hoping to buy. The third gen frame should support the older crossmember and the drive shaft will have to be shortened.
 
I ended up taking the truck to a Cummins Specialist here in Ocala to pull the shaker. You all were totally right about the dmf. It had 1/2 to 3/4" of circular slack and 1/8 to 1/4" play in the pilot bearing. There were 4 ball bearings laying in the bottom of the case and the bearing housing was ripped open. The clutch was in good shape. We installed a SBB G56 OKHD rated for 450hp and 900 lbs torque recommended by Peter/SB purchased from Summit Racing. It came with everything needed including a solid flywheel and pre-bled hydraulics. This was at least the second flywheel because it was Luk brand. The truck has 154K miles. There were no cracks in the housings. The seals were good and the input shaft was solid.

I wish I had recorded how bad it shook at idle and how smooth it is now. It's a shame Dodge would design and install such a weak link behind such a great engine as the Cummins. I hope the pictures and video gives an idea of how bad the dmf can get.

I want to thank all of you for your input and help. What a great group of professionals. Hopefully I can return the favor sometime.

Jim Taylor
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top