Dual Westach install questions, PSI/EGT

[JeepinDoug]

I started on my guage install and had a couple of questions and observations.



I thought that between rain showers today I'd get a few minutes to atleast plumb the boost line. I thought the guage was fully mechanical, needing only the vaccume line for a boost reading, wrong. The guage needs 12 or 24 volt power so it took me longer than I expected.

Though the directions from Geno's is very helpful I thought maybe they could expand a little more, like where to get switched acc power for the guage. I was lucky and found a relay used in my alarm that I tapped into with no ill effects so far.

At first I was scratching my thinking why don't I have boost pressure, I hear the turbo? Obviously, I'm a total newb to the diesel.

So I get the 12 volt supply, light power and grounds connected along with the boost line, wired with jump wires first to make sure everything was right. Jump in the truck for a test drive, I drove a few miles waiting for the engine to warm up, watching the boost readings go as high as 20 psi, Sunday driving.

Once it was warmed up I gave the skinny a small stab and watched the boost climb to approx 28-30 psi and then drop to zero while still accelerating. The hose popped off the barb. Fixed it and it did it again.

I got home and tied a small zip-tie really tight around it and pulled up on the hose, it's going nowhere now and hopefully the guage side doesn't do the same.

So here's three questions I have;

1. ) Is there a nice place to grab keyed 12 volts under the dash?

I'm afraid of tapping a wire the might be resistance sensitive.

2. ) Did other Westach owners do similar to fix the popping hose?

I've never seen a hose clamp for 1/4" hose. I do have a few expanding hose clamps but the smallest was 5/16".



Next I need to conquer my fears and drill/tap the manifold for the pyro. I'm not too concerned about the optimum location for the pyro so I'll probably drill just above the turbo.

3. ) Is the turbo easy to move out of the way?

With the turbo disconnected from only the manifold so I can tape over the turbo inlet I need to sepperate them enough to blow the chips from the turbo.

Will the turbo assembly flex around a little.

Thanks, Doug

 

[JimBob24]

Hi Doug. I do not have Westach, but one good place to tap for switched 12V is the cigarette lighter plug wiring. It is controlled by the ign switch, unlike the acc power outlet, which is hot all the time. I believe the cig lighter plug is fused for 20A so I put an inline fuse holder with a 5A fuse for my gauge.



I have read where several who put the pyro probe just above the turbo flange were able to remove the 4 turbo mounting bolts and pull the turbo down far enough to put a thin piece of cardboard between the flange and the turbo while drilling. I put my probe there also but did not remove the turbo. I drilled slowly and used grease on the drill to catch chips. A number of other posts stated that very small drill shavings would not hurt the turbo and I took the chance. Everything worked fine. If you did not already know, there is a baffle in the center of the exhaust manifold just above the turbo mount that divides the manifold into two chambers, so you need to drill accordingly. Most recommend drilling the rearmost portion of the manifold where the exhaust should be hottest. The soft cast iron stock manifold is easy to drill and tap.



Jim

 

[JeepinDoug]

Thanks Jim, I have been searching for a few details before jumping into the pyro so I did learn about the plenium divider in the manfold. I'm sure if I took my time drilling and tapping in place I'd be fine but I still won't risk it for an hour or two more work. Any small noise I hear would have me thinking if I got all the chips out.

I will swap my power wire to the lighter hot. I was stumped under the dash.

Thanks again, Doug

 

[J_Melton]

Westach Install - Been there done that!

Oo. I read your post and couldn't resist posting. I didn't want to drill for the egt probe so I took the truck to my mechanic who has worked on every car I've owned since 1975 to do the job. When I picked up the truck they told me they had dinked with it all day trying to make it work. I took it home and read the directions closely. Yep, does take 12v to make the gauge work!



I puttered around town for a couple of weeks. No problems... Then I had to take a little trip out of town. I live at almost 8,000 feet and have to go over a 9,000 foot pass to get out of town. Pulled out to pass some flatlander and punched it. Boost climbed to about 30 psi and dropped to zero. Checked it after I got home and found that the hose had blown off the manifold. Figured the whimpy tie sent with the kit was the problem. Got out a real tie. Problem solved... Until I went towing. Blew that sucker off again outside Adel, Iowa. Found the friendly Ace Hardware and bought the smallest hose clamp they had. Fixed...



Continued the trip to Minnesota. THEN I'm driving on I90 in South Dakota, and I hear a hissing sound. I stop and try to figure out what is going on. No luck... I get back on the interstate and drive. The hiss is obviously related to the go pedal.



Oo. Then all the sudden the hose blows off the back of the gauge. I figure out immediately what is going on, but there is no where to pull off. Then all of the sudden the black hose blows out from behind the dash and whips around like a mad snake. No exit in sight. I grab the hose and double over the end until I can get off. Stop at some rest stop in the middle of no where and dig out a pair of vice grips. Clamp that hose off and lay it in the floorboard. I look at that darn thing for another week until I get home.



A visit to Napa for another little clamp. No problems since. I thought it was just my bad luck. Interesting to hear someone else had the same problem.



Seems to me that Genos or Westach would do better. Can't imagine what happens to you guys out there with some real boost.

 

[JeepinDoug]

Haha, funny visual. I guess I'll have to clamp both ends now. I'm willing to try the zip-tie on the guage because the hose is tight and the big undercut at the bottom of the guage barb should hold the tie and hose well.

It's not blowing off the manifold now but it's raining here and the roads are slick. If I punch it the tires just start spinning, darn diesels .

 

[Cryotek]

I just got done installing an overhead pod for Dipricol EGT and Boost. When I installed the EGT probe I drill in the top of the exaust manafold. I did thins for two reasons: first I could not get my drill in the area between the turbo and the A/C stuff and two I was un able to break the turbo flange bolts loose. Fearing that I would probably break them since I need the truck I drilled just above the 3# cylinder port. When I drill I had the shop vac going and could not see any shavings as they were instantly sucked up by the vacuum. WHen I tapped the hole, I did fill the tap with grease. Any grease will do.



The boost gauge uses compression fitting on both end so I don't have any problems of hoses coming loose.



Good luck with the EGT probe install. It's not that bad if you think about what you are doing and take your time.