Page two hub instructions
Now for the hard part. The last piece of the hub is held on from the rear with four metric bolts . Same as before 12 point sockets ONLY. Remove the bolts. four metric bolts that you took from Now place the puller accessory tool over the splined driveshaft. Use the the rear and thread them in from the front. Better yet, get four 14mm x 80mm fine thread bolts and use them instead—these longer bolts will thread in further and not risk stripping out. I was able to get grade 8 bolts at a local hardware store Tighten the bolts evenly and the hub will ‘’push’’ the shaft in. This baby is really tight and will be rusted on. As you get tighter, the pulling action can be aided by tapping the bolts with a hammer. The biggest advantage to this home made plate is that it keeps the drive shaft centered and involves no ‘’heat and beat’’ of the metric bolts from the rear. If the puller accessory you made is made from a round plate ,you can add the 3 jaw puller as before , and you will have 5 bolts pressing at once. . Other TDR guys have removed the rear half of the bearing assembly by loosening the 4 metric bolts and using the steering system of the truck to break it loose. They somehow place a socket between the metric bolt and the steering yoke and turn the steering wheel to press it off. Remember your brakes are off the truck before you try this!
Once removed, press out the bearing from the hub . Mine came out easily by just placing it over a standard aerosol [spray]paint can and tapping on it Examine the bearing,race, and clean it up. Some guys leave it in place and grease it with a needle, but mine was easy to remove. Use a high temp synthetic grease and work the grease into the bearing race on both bearings. By the way the replacement cost for one bearing assembly is $ 350 U. S. !
To reassemble, you must join the hub back together A press is ideal. Join the parts ‘’flush’’. If no press is available you can use a light hammer to get started and a six pound sledge to finish. Place the studded side down and place a 2x6 against the back side when pounding it in It sounds worse than it is. Of course ,use never seize on all rusted surfaces. When you put in the four metric bolts from the rear, use green locktite. Some guys disagree with me on this and use anti-seize instead. My first service was 16 months after delivery, and I am just stating that I found green loctite on the four metric bolts.
By doing this maintenance annually, you should be able to prevent a huge repair bill later . As difficult as this is to get apart now, imagine adding more time and rust! I personally witnessed a 5 year old truck that ruined every component on the front end—over 3 thousand to repair. It ‘’let loose’’ with almost no warning and nearly caused an accident. Please let me know how everything works out and feel free to ask questions. Figure 3 hours for the first side and less than two for the second.
EDIT: There has been discussion on TDR of whether or not the hub should be removed in two stages as described above. The other method involves use of a 50pound slide hammer that threads to the wheel studs My method at least gives a controlled pull and keeps the front driveshaft centered during the pull. The bearings are enclosed in plastic , so mabe some people think they will fall apart when pulled as two assemblies
Keep in mind that these instructions are for a 2002 4WD truck and I have not used the tool on other trucks. I would think that so long as the hub carrier has the four rear bolts that hold it on,this tool would ease a lot of headaches. If anyone in the Dayton,OH area wants to see the process, I would be glad to show them.
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
I don't think I have any idea what I'm up against here. 
