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Duravis 250 vrs XPS rib tires

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In my case, that is what I wanted, so I'm very happy it turned out the way it did. I trust Michelin more than any other tire manufacturer, so when Discount tire beat the R250's, I was happy. Yes, retailers are well known to push the profit margin, not the quality margin. Does anyone remember, "Ford will have a cummins next year because they own them" or "Dish Satellite will have the NFL package next year and we're cheaper" I'm sure there is more, Im just to old to remember them. I was actually told these two lies by salesmen. What I was was shocked by, was that the XPS rib's were made in the United Kingdom?
 
I just bought a set of 4 Duravis R250 at Costco for $886 after tax, mounting, out the door.
Does anybody buy a brand new for a spare? Mine are over 10 years old. Probably should.
TB

Well maybe not new but a good used tire under 5 years old. But good luck finding a good used trailer tire. I am still legend for having my trailer in a shop for repair and the newer but worn spare tire separated and blew out. No one was close to it or injured. Include the spare and rotate it in now and then to get your money out of it.

Last thing you want is to use a old spare and have it quickly fail after the PIA of putting it on.
 
I still have the Maxxas as a spare, but will buy a new XPS when it's time for rotation. I don't think I have to worry about a new XPS throwing tread or separation, but I still keep an eye on them. ;)
 
In my case, that is what I wanted, so I'm very happy it turned out the way it did. I trust Michelin more than any other tire manufacturer, so when Discount tire beat the R250's, I was happy. Yes, retailers are well known to push the profit margin, not the quality margin. Does anyone remember, "Ford will have a cummins next year because they own them" or "Dish Satellite will have the NFL package next year and we're cheaper" I'm sure there is more, Im just to old to remember them. I was actually told these two lies by salesmen. What I was was shocked by, was that the XPS rib's were made in the United Kingdom?
I ran my UK ribs for 40k+ miles and six and a half years, and then sold them for $200 on CL. Have on new one left hanging under the trailer. It is only 10 years old! Should replace it! Like the R250's just as well! Snoking
 
What a confusing topic. I have a 2000 32' Holiday Rambler 5ver. I believe the gross unloaded weight is 9500 with water. I added a 6500 gen set and 45 gal aluminum fuel tank. It has 2 axles which I believe are 6k axles. I had several blow outs last year and replaced all of the tires (same trip and within a couple of hours). I bought the spare with the trailer. It lasted about 60 miles before it too separated. I'd replace the spare so you have a good spare in the event that you need it.

My blowout story is longer than what it's worth, but it casued me to become absolutely paranoid about my tires, and I'm still trying to learn the subject. I have 16" wheels and went with Duravis 500 HDs. A little knowledge is dangerous, but when I start to discuss my tire needs at the tire stores, they seem to know less than I do but are more than willing to baffle me with BS.

How do you go about determining what tire rating is required for your rig?
 
Does your rig not have a tag or label on it listing the VIN, GVWR and the individual GAWRs? It should be on the left (road or driver's) side near the front of the rig - on the body or on the pinbox.

Rusty
 
What a confusing topic. I have a 2000 32' Holiday Rambler 5ver. I believe the gross unloaded weight is 9500 with water. I added a 6500 gen set and 45 gal aluminum fuel tank. It has 2 axles which I believe are 6k axles. I had several blow outs last year and replaced all of the tires (same trip and within a couple of hours). I bought the spare with the trailer. It lasted about 60 miles before it too separated. I'd replace the spare so you have a good spare in the event that you need it.

My blowout story is longer than what it's worth, but it casued me to become absolutely paranoid about my tires, and I'm still trying to learn the subject. I have 16" wheels and went with Duravis 500 HDs. A little knowledge is dangerous, but when I start to discuss my tire needs at the tire stores, they seem to know less than I do but are more than willing to baffle me with BS.

How do you go about determining what tire rating is required for your rig?

The Duravis R500HD is a super commercial grade 2 ply poly carcass tire. It is one of the better poly carcass choices for a LRE LT235/85R16 or LT245/75R16 on 6K axles. You should get many trouble free miles and years of service from that choice. Snoking
 
I plan on upgrading my new travel trailer to the R250's within a year of ownership. I will get them online for a much better price than I can get the Michelins. Both tires spec nearly identical.
Whichever one you can get the best price on should be your choice- as long as it meets your weight rating requirements.Throw in a bag of balance, mount them,and air them up for your load-
and you should be good for 10 years. Don't try that with ST's. No trucking company ever changes their trailer tires because it is now winter. They only change them when the tread depth falls
below spec. Don't look for trailer tire tread designs that provide more "traction" This is a towed vehicle.Traction is for drive wheels only. You want the trailer tire with the full steel carcass for
long, dependable service.
 
Traction is also for braking....

Yeah, just how do those OTR trucks stop their trailers. Review post #3. I have towed with XPS Ribs then R250s on my trailer for 10 years. Just do not understand how I am able to stop? NOT!

Of course I do not take it off roading or up to ski areas in the winter.

Oregon and California will make you chain up a trailer axle if road conditions are bad in the Siskiyous, so I go around on Coastal route 101!

SNOKING
 
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Yeah, just how do those OTR trucks stop their trailers. Review post #3. I have towed with XPS Ribs then R250s on my trailer for 10 years. Just do not understand how I am able to stop? NOT!

Of course I do not take it off roading or up to ski areas in the winter.

Oregon and California will make you chain up a trailer axle if road conditions are bad in the Siskiyous, so I go around on Coastal route 101!

SNOKING

Huh?

inlinesix3million said traction is only needed on drive wheels, I disagree some level of traction is required on every tire. Steer, Drive, or Trailer all need appropriate traction for their use. Without traction you won't steer, drive, or tow well.

R250's or XPS ribs provide excellent trailer traction, as long as they aren't used as a winter tire.
 
AH64ID has good point, even an unloaded Semi trailer can weigh heavy, but there are 8 tires as well. I'll be happy with my XPS rib traction.
 
Nice spin job.... You make it sound like I implied that bald tires were no different than those with proper tread depth. "Traction" tires are for your drive wheels. If you are locking up your
trailer wheels while braking you should slow down so that you don't have to hit the brakes so hard or so much. And if the conditions warrant it- add a drag chain onto a trailer tire.
 
Not a spin job, it's how your comment was worded.

Don't look for trailer tire tread designs that provide more "traction"

What is "traction", is it different than traction?

It also doesn't imply a traction tire, but a tire that provides traction.
 
Trailer tires are much better with closed outer ribs, as with axles close together in tight turns (backing mostly) broken ribs grab to much. I have long thought that the standard ST tire with an A/S type tread was one of it's major downfalls, causing to rip itself apart. Snoking
 
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My comment was worded as intended. Your bias changed it's meaning to fit your narrative.A traction tread design is for driven wheels. They are inferior on a towed position. A trailer
gets it's "traction" performance in slick conditions by A) being loaded B) being loaded evenly C) brakes adjusted properly. If one is driving too fast for conditions- then all bets are off.
If your trailer is putting the weight to the ground unevenly and you then hit your brakes in slick conditions- the wheels with the less weight will lock up before the rest. Locked up tires
want to slide sideways. There went your traction. A drive tread design will react the same in this scenario, the only difference being that you won't get as many miles out of it.
 
For the handful of people that think a trailer tire needs more traction than the XPS Rib or R250, there is the Michelin XPS Traction.

#ad


Or the Duravis M895 A/S.

#ad
 
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If you have a warm tire that is loaded to capacity it will have traction on ice and snow. Even a tire that isn't loaded very heavy will have some traction. I have drove for less than 100 ft with a frozen brake on a semi trailer and wore tread off and made a flat spot on an icy road in my yard. Warm tires have much better ice traction than cold ones. Think of driving on hockey pucks, you'd go nowhere on ice but soften them up and make them a bit pliable and you have much better traction.
 
Not all tire compounds are the same. The XPS Rib, R250 and R500HD all have very dense compounds for high mileage commercial service.

Tires like the Bridgestone Blizzak are made for winter service! "When our winter tires encounter snow and ice, our Multi-Cell compound removes a thin layer of surface water to improve grip using millions of microscopic pores. This compound also allows the tire to remain flexible in freezing temperatures, improving traction and available grip. High sipe density of our snow tires improves traction in the wet, snow, and ice by increasing the number of biting edges." They will wear out quite fast in normal highway service.

Most with RV trailers have no plan to tow in snow and ice, so the XPS, R250 and R500HD are excellent choice for long life on a trailer. SNOKING
 
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