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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) DV Install Help?

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I got these used 181's from a 215pump today. Anybody have any tips or hints on how to make the install go smooth? I have the socket and I have read the instructions on the PDR site. Also if my 160 pump has the copper gaskets below the factory holders, should I remove them before installing these?



I did a search but couldnt find much in the way of instructions.
 
Zach it goes pretty easy, it'll be pretty straightforward once you take it apart. The main thing though is you're supposed to be careful when retorquing the DVs afterwards. First step go to 29 ft/lbs, second step go to 85 ft/lbs in one continuous motion. In other words keep pushing on the torque wrench and keep it turning until you reach 85 ft/lbs.



Vaughn
 
I would lap the bottom of the delivery valve holder and of the delivery valve body to ensure a flat sealing surface. Personally I like to replace the green O-Rings on the delivery valve holder as I typically have at least one of them leak after R+R a set of DV's. Some people though get lucky and they don't leak.
 
Jim is right, CLEAN! CLEAN! CLEAN! Or you will be :{

I would brake clean and dry with air presure the entire area before touching it. Watch for paint chips coming off the holder.



Cooker, lapping? Doing your homework, eh?



Haven't read the PDR instructions, but I found out when you are removing the holders, and the o-ring starts to drag, reverse it just a hair, and it will free up, and back out without tearing.

I have used other than Bosch o-rings in a jam, they don't fit as nice, but $. 30 vs $3. 00 a piece, its nice to have a few on hand.



I have also coated new o-rings with fuel, before install, helps them come back out.



And don't forget they are spring loaded, and on top the spring is a little valve and washer, which are hard to find after you drop them. (I have heard. ;) :rolleyes: )
 
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What is the impact of leaving the copper washers in a 160 pump? Does it effect the amount of fuel that can be delivered?
 
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