Dynamat: where applied and which product?

[JGK]

I'm going to upgrade the sound system and I'm thinking it would be a good time to add Dynamat. I'm already planning on doing the area behind the back seat, just for general sound deadening. Which version of the product did you use?

Of those that have done the doors, again, which product and how much did it take (I have a '98 12v QC)? Any tips/tricks on application and getting past the plastic moisture barrier behind the door panels without destroying it? Where's the best place to get it (mail order)?

TIA,
Jay

 

[Scooby]

Jay,

As we speak I'm having a stereo "upgrade" performed at a local shop. A few of the second generation Kicker (square) subs, a few hundred watts of power here and there and dynamat. I'm having the rear section behind the seat done, as well as all the doors (Quad Cab). If you really want good deadening, you can go crazy and remove the headliner, and carpets, etc...

For just a few bucks more, the shop really recommends the Dynamat Extreme (I think it's called) versus the regular dynamat. The extreme has the "foil" barrier and emits virutally no odor whereas the other one stinks. Can't tell you yet how big of a difference it's made since I get it back tonight!

They sell "kits" for doors and I think I saw it on the Crutchfield website for like 85 or 90 bucks for 2 doors. Then you buy the rest in square foot sections.

[This message has been edited by Scooby (edited 04-18-2001). ]

 

[JGK]

Scooby,

Great! Luck with the results. Ask them 2 things: total square footage used, and, in the doors, did they put the stuff inside the door on the outer skin or on the inner skin, just behind the door's trim panel (where the plastic moisture shield is found). The 'xtreme' seems to be the way to go.

My upgrade won't be nearly so radical.

Thank,
Jay

 

[Cooker]

Having installed many car audio systems in the past, I will share my $. 02.

The floor and roof are your two areas where you will receive the most benefit (and obviously the wall of the cab behind the seat). I persoanlly never noticed a great difference in doing the doors, but that is primarily on cars, without diesel powered engines. I would assume there is greater benefits to doing the doors on our Cummins.

As far as what Dynamat to use, I couldn't tell you. I've always used a product from an audio supplier here in town. It is very similar, if not identical, to the lesser expensive Dynamat. The last time I bought any it was $5 for a sheet about 24" x 36". If you want it thicker just apply two layers (Except on the roof maybe. Sometimes the glue doesn't seem to hold up as well when it is stuck to the material instead of another solid surface)

As far as application. Make sure the surface is clean, and if you can a quick wipe down with rubbing alchol will help ensure a good "stick". Also it helps to have a heat gun or a blow dryer on hand to warm up the material. This will make it much easier to mold around the areas in the truck.

I haven't done this to my Cummins yet, but will sometime this summer when I install the stero.

I hope this helps,
Ryan

 

[jwgary]

I would also add that you would want to get as much on the firewall as possible. That is where you will get a lot of vibration from the engine into the cab. Dynamat makes a world of difference. If you really want good sound damping, apply to every surface you can, especially the floor and roof. My brother also used Dynaliner (the same stuff in a foam rubber type mat) to the floor. This adds more cusion to your floor too.

 

[Un-Hemi]

Try this for a source: http://www.b-quiet.com
Just bought some Dynamat from them. Price was far better than the BOOM store in town. They also have samples.
Tom

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Tom Glover - VE7DQ, C-GWTG
99 QC SLT, LWB 4x2, ETC/DGP, Wht/Agate, etc.

 

[JohnMcIntyre]

<font color=blue> Jay, I recently upgraded from the factory Infinity stereo and as a precursor, went the Dynamat Xtreme (foil backed) sound deadening route. It's everywhere except behind the roof lining and IMHO , it has made a BIG difference to the quality and clarity of sound in the cab.

If you knock a couple of times on the panel above either front wheel arch and compare it with the adjacent door panel right next to it, the sound on the wheel arch is hollow and quite loud, whereas the door now gives off a very dull thud! With the windows up and a "very modest" sound level, you wouldn't know you're in a diesel truck... . at least until you floor the Go pedal! #ad


If you're serious about upgrading the sound system, it's definitely worth the investment, but like most things in life it ain't cheap and you pay for what you get and you get what you pay for.....

In my truck the amount of Dynamat Xtreme (more than 80 sq ft)set me back close on US$500 and it was quite labor-intensive removing seats, carpets and door panels and then putting them all back in place once again.

Both Scooby and Bill K. saw/heard my set-up in earlier this month before I returned to Europe and both gave it a thumbs-up too!

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JMc

2001 Flame Red Sport 3500 QC, 5. 9L 24v Cummins, 4x4 Auto, 3. 54/LSD, 155 inch WB, Agate leather, HX35/14cms turbo, DTT VB,TC & "smart" PAC Exhaust Brake , Mag-Hytec transmission & Diff covers, SPA Dual Gauges,DD2s,DD4" exhaust, Rickson 19. 5" wheels, Roadmaster XX,Firestone Airbags, WAAG sidetubes with dually kickouts, Line-X, Grovers , Lance 1130 slide-in Camper, 60 gallon “stock” Aerotank, RS9000s, Reese Titan class 5 hitch. plus the ICE-bomb


[This message has been edited by JohnMcIntyre (edited 05-02-2001). ]

 

[John]

I used two layers of Dynamat Xtreme on the back cab wall, topped off with a layer of Dynamat Hood Liner. I also used Dynamat Xtreme on the outside of the cowl and two layers under the driver/passenger footwell area and drivetrain hump. I still need to apply the Xtreme to all four doors though... I have several other projects ahead of it though. Actually, I was waiting for Powervision to release their new heated mirrors, that way when I have the door panels removed to install the mirrors I can also install the Dynamat Xtreme.

Dynamat Xtreme is a foil faced butyl product that provides four times the sound deadening of original Dynamat, twice the sound deadening of Dynamat Super. Big $$$$ but worth it in my opinion.

John (McIntyre), Bill (Kondolay) mentioned how awesome your stereo sounded to me. Wish I had heard it for myself.

 

[vc]

John,
are you applying that on the exterior then? If you are, any problems with it coming off with it subject to getting wet when it's raining out and driving thru puddles?
Thanks.
vc

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'97 Ram,auto,3. 54 lim-slip,4x4,smoothie,BD(TST)#8 fuel plate-slid forward,Prime-Loc,VDO Vision pyro/boost,HiddenHitch class V Magnum.

 

[JohnMcIntyre]

John,Bill (Kondolay) mentioned how awesome your stereo sounded to me. Wish I had heard it for myself.

<font color = blue>

Well John, if you ever decide to visit Europe, look me up. Two good things about the ICE bomb was that I found a company in the USA that made a standard cable which extended the steering wheel mounted factory stereo controls and converted them from factory Infinity to Alpine head unit in a 1 DIN enclosure (stock is 1. 5 DIN)and JL Audio make a two sub-woofer enclosure that sits right under the rear seat of the Quad Cab in place of the tool tray.

When planning the pilgramage to Bill K. 's place last year I had mentioned to fellow NW Bomber Vaughn Mackenzie, that if time was on my side, I'd have taken time out in Washington to see the NW Bombers. In hindsight, we should have allowed another week minimum. As it was, we covered the 8,500+ miles in just over three weeks coast to coast (the long way around) ending up in New York. My truck and camper are now somewhere in the Atlantic and should arrive in Southampton around May 16th. Can't wait!!


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JMc

2001 Flame Red Sport 3500 QC, 5. 9L 24v Cummins, 4x4 Auto, 3. 54/LSD, 155 inch WB, Agate leather, HX35/14cms turbo, Bill K. VB,TC & "smart" PAC Exhaust Brake , Mag-Hytec transmission & Diff covers, SPA Dual Gauges,DD2s,DD4" exhaust, Rickson 19. 5" wheels, Roadmaster XX,Firestone Airbags, WAAG sidetubes with dually kickouts, Line-X, Grovers , Lance 1130 slide-in Camper, 60 gallon “stock” Aerotank, RS9000s, Reese Titan class 5 hitch. plus the ICE-bomb

[This message has been edited by JohnMcIntyre (edited 04-25-2001). ]

 

[JGK]

Thanks, all.

While I can appreciate the benefits of doing this throughout, I'm sorta working with the "80/20" rule in mind - how to get 80% of the benefit while doing 20% of the work of doing the whole interior (pulling out seats, carpeting, etc. ) I'm thinking of the back of the cab, behind the headliner, and perhaps the doors. These are the easiest to get to.

The link to www.b-quiet.com looks good (thanks Tom). Have any of you tried some of these Dynamat copies? Stuff from McMaster-Carr has also been recommended. Dynamat Xtreme is awful expensive!

Thanks again,
Jay

 

[Un-Hemi]

I'm in the process of installing B-Quiet's ordinary dynamat clone behind the back seat of my QC. I should have it finished this weekend, and will post results Sunday.
Tom

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Tom Glover - VE7DQ, C-GWTG
99 QC SLT, LWB 4x2, ETC/DGP, Wht/Agate, etc.

 

[John]

vc, I only applied the Dynamat Xtreme to the outside of the cowl (facing the engine) on the passenger side only (my '98. 5 has too many things in the way of the cowl at all other locations... I had a heck of a time as it was changing out the OE cowl mat). If you are serious about wanting to deaden the sound from the cowl, apply the Dynamat to the inside of the cowl. I would only use the Dynamat Xtreme in this location though.

John, thanks for the invite. Bill told me all about your Ram. He stopped short of a full description though as I was drooling too much. lol #ad
#ad


[This message has been edited by John (edited 04-26-2001). ]

 

[Un-Hemi]

OK, I finished doing the back wall of the cab with the B-Quiet stuff a couple of evenings ago. Took the opportunity to drive the truck today and, yes, the stuff works! When I finished installing it (a good job, not a great job), I thumped the back of the cab and it didn't sound like it made much difference. It still sounded like a steel drum. Well, when I'm driving the truck now, the back end of the cab sounds 'dead'. there is less high-frequency garbage coming from back there. I'm quite impressed, actually. By the way, I have had the rear seat out of the truck for a while to do another upgrade, and had a chance to drive it without the rear seat and without the sound proofing. It's much better now.

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Tom Glover - VE7DQ, C-GWTG
99 QC SLT, LWB 4x2, ETC/DGP, Wht/Agate, etc.

 

[John]

Tommy T, after I applied two layers of Dynamat Xtreme followed with a top layer of Dynamat Hood Liner (3/4" thick) to the back cab wall, there was NO clunk, thud or anything else! The panel was totally dead although, so was my wallet. There must be at least $250. worth of Dynamat at that location alone. #ad
#ad

 

[JohnMcIntyre]

There must be at least $250. worth of Dynamat at that location alone. #ad
#ad


<font color=blue> Sounds like you've been introduced to the "dark side" John. It's a slippery slope from here on in..... #ad
#ad




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JMc

2001 Flame Red Sport 3500 QC, 5. 9L 24v Cummins, 4x4 Auto, 3. 54/LSD, 155 inch WB, Agate leather, HX35/14cms turbo, Bill K. VB,TC & "smart" PAC Exhaust Brake , Mag-Hytec transmission & Diff covers, SPA Dual Gauges,DD2s,DD4" exhaust, Rickson 19. 5" wheels, Roadmaster XX,Firestone Airbags, WAAG sidetubes with dually kickouts, Line-X, Grovers , Lance 1130 slide-in Camper, 60 gallon “stock” Aerotank, RS9000s, Reese Titan class 5 hitch. plus the ICE-bomb

 

[Un-Hemi]

John, what was it JGK said about 80/20? I've got a whole $37CDN wrapped up in my cab with about 10 sq ft left over! I can appreciate how much of a change 250 bux worth of material can make, but, unfortunately, I've gotta spend the other (lessee... . $250 x 1. 5 = $375 - $37 = ) $338CDN somewhere else. Like hamburgers. Or deep fried turkey! #ad
: #ad
:
Cheerio!
Tom

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Tom Glover - VE7DQ, C-GWTG
99 QC SLT, LWB 4x2, ETC/DGP, Wht/Agate, etc.

[This message has been edited by TommyTurbosaurus (edited 04-30-2001). ]

 

[John]

80/20? Hmmm...

..... more like 99/1 #ad

 

[JGK]

"... more like 99/1"

Yup. See, there ya go. Too easy to get carried away (been there, done that). Tommy, it sounds like the b-quite product is good, based on your recent work. One or two layers on the back and the roof - maybe the doors - should do it.

For the moment, though, this is on hold. I just had the pump (P7100) bench tested on Monday and the wallet is in 'recovery' for a while.

Thanks,
Jay

 

[Un-Hemi]

Yikes! Well, Jay, at least the B-Quiet stuff won't rip the money out of your wallet like a pump will, and it's real quiet inside the cab til the pump is replaced! #ad

Tom

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Tom Glover - VE7DQ, C-GWTG
99 QC SLT, LWB 4x2, ETC/DGP, Wht/Agate, etc.