Dynatrac group buy.... Who's interested.....WITH MONEY!

[Motorhead]

Dynatrac group buy.... Who's interested?

I am working on setting up with Dynatrac for a group buy of their free spin kits.

We don't have to all buy the same kit to get the price. Either with the Dynalocs or Warn hubs will count for discount.

I have one friend that wants to BUY a kit.

No offence guys but I need people that will follow through with money.



I will need to know your ZIP code for a shipping quote. They will be drop shipped from the manufacturer in SO. CAL.



They ship UPS (My old stomping grounds for 30 years. Now every package pays MY RETIREMENT! )



THIS IS THE PRICE FOR '00-'08

2009 ADD $145. 00 TO EACH BELOW

$2195. plus shipping for the free spin kit with DYNALOC hubs ONLINE PRICE $2418. OR MORE

$1795. plus shipping for the free spin kit with WARN hubs ONLINE PRICE $1989. OR MORE

Unfortunately, California purchases have to pay sales tax.

THE ABOVE PRICES GOOD ONLY IF 6 GUYS PURCHASE.

 

[Gonzo 1066]

I have already bought 5 of them. A Best buy for me. .

 

[DAWG-1]

I will buy a set with Dynaloc hubs for a 2011. Thanks, Sam.

 

[Motorhead]

I have already bought 5 of them. A Best buy for me. .

What do you mean?

 

[Gonzo 1066]

What do you mean?

I bought one for my truck and four for friends trucks, did the installations myself. EVERYONE is very happy with DynaTrac.

 

[rscurtis]

They've been on my signature truck for almost 5 years, no issues at all, except better fuel economy.

 

[TGVET]

They've been on my signature truck for almost 5 years, no issues at all, except better fuel economy.

Please tell the truth. How much better ? I'd like to do a cost analysis. MPG increase vs cost for MPG gain divided into cost recovery. I have been thinking about them for a long time but 2500 G's is a lot of fuel. However, I am also taking in consideration minimizing the wear and tear on my front diff which now at 240K seems to be worn pretty good by evidence of rotating front wheels back and forth CW & CCW with a noticeable clunking.

Rob

 

[Bob4x4]

If the fuel saving were substantial the oems would never have quit using locking hubs... ... ... ... ... .

 

[Regcabguy]

My friend picked up maybe 1 mpg w/his. Servicibility and minimizing wear on the rotating frontend parts would be my goal. The steering on my F-250 and Toyotas was MUCH lighter with the hubs disengaged also.

 

[TGVET]

If the fuel saving were substantial the oems would never have quit using locking hubs... ... ... ... ... .

I always assumed Detroit and the rest were in bed with the oil companies and the Feds aka EPA.



The technology has been around for decades making it possible for vehicles to get twice or more the MPG than they do. No way will anyone convince me otherwise, far too many testimonials out there indicating the vary same.



It's about control and greed just like we are dealing with now. We should be seeing gas at or below $2. 00 and diesel less.

 

[TGVET]

My friend picked up maybe 1 mpg w/his. Servicibility and minimizing wear on the rotating frontend parts would be my goal. The steering on my F-250 and Toyotas was MUCH lighter with the hubs disengaged also.

EXACTLY !



$2,500. (Parts only) divided by $5. 00/gal = 500gal. x 18MPG = 9000 miles. @ 100 MPD that's three months of driving or 36,000 per year.

 

[d6c]

If the fuel saving were substantial the oems would never have quit using locking hubs... ... ... ... ... .

Although I am here to tell you there is very little if any fuel savings to be had..... the manufactures went to unit bearings for production line efficiency to make for more profit and the consumer wants shift on the fly and not to get out to lock hubs. Make it cheaper and still sell it for just as much or more... . win win for the manufacturers. Not to mention the weak unit bearing when people add bigger tires/wheels make for more shop time at the dealer. . another win for them.

 

[Motorhead]

This is NOT a debate about fuel mileage. I installed a set of EMS hubs on my '07,5. 9, G56 and got 1-1. 5 mpg better on the highway. The other advantage which I use the most is 2wd low range for reverse. This is also an advantage to you AUTOMATIC guys as reverse isn't the strongest in the 47-48RE for heavy load backing. My steering is lighter and I am not turning all of the front end when I don't want to. So I am NOT replacing front U joints and front drive line parts. So it is MORE benefit than just fuel mileage.

I am trying to find 4-5 other people that want to commit to buying a set. I want the lower profile Dynatracs for my truck and sell my EMS set.

If you are interested in a set then please let me know.

 

[rscurtis]

Please tell the truth. How much better ? I'd like to do a cost analysis. MPG increase vs cost for MPG gain divided into cost recovery. I have been thinking about them for a long time but 2500 G's is a lot of fuel. However, I am also taking in consideration minimizing the wear and tear on my front diff which now at 240K seems to be worn pretty good by evidence of rotating front wheels back and forth CW & CCW with a noticeable clunking.



Rob

The real-world FE improvement was 1-2 MPG on my '03. For local driving, I would say there was no measurable difference. On the road is where you'll see the improvement. Replace the u-joints with greasables while you're at it, and you'll be set for a long time.

 

[TGVET]

This is NOT a debate about fuel mileage. I installed a set of EMS hubs on my '07,5. 9, G56 and got 1-1. 5 mpg better on the highway. The other advantage which I use the most is 2wd low range for reverse. This is also an advantage to you AUTOMATIC guys as reverse isn't the strongest in the 47-48RE for heavy load backing. My steering is lighter and I am not turning all of the front end when I don't want to. So I am NOT replacing front U joints and front drive line parts. So it is MORE benefit than just fuel mileage.

I am trying to find 4-5 other people that want to commit to buying a set. I want the lower profile Dynatracs for my truck and sell my EMS set.

If you are interested in a set then please let me know.

RC & MH,

I'm with you on the advantages of gear vs MPG. I failed to note earlier here and other posts that when I did my BJ's and hub bearings last year, I also had my u-joints done with zurks.

While in the shop two weeks ago to diagnose driver side knocking noise it was determined my left sway link was shot AND the left u-joint was already going bad as evident by the Mech. pointing out rust then rotating showing some looseness.

Supposedly, those were "lifetime warranted" joints. Shop calls supplier to verify, supplier wants to know GVW, shop says 9900lbs e. g. 1Ton. Supplier says oops, sorry, only lifetime for up to 8600lbs.

I grease the crap out of everything, did so right before my Xmas trip to Idaho and for there to be rust already evident with less than 5K miles was a big surprise.

So now, even after asking my mechanic to replace ANY OEM stuff with lifetime warranty parts once again, I'm getting gypped.

Need suggestion on GOOD u-joints. .

 

[Motorhead]

RC & MH,

I'm with you on the advantages of gear vs MPG. I failed to note earlier here and other posts that when I did my BJ's and hub bearings last year, I also had my u-joints done with zurks.

While in the shop two weeks ago to diagnose driver side knocking noise it was determined my left sway link was shot AND the left u-joint was already going bad as evident by the Mech. pointing out rust then rotating showing some looseness.

Supposedly, those were "lifetime warranted" joints. Shop calls supplier to verify, supplier wants to know GVW, shop says 9900lbs e. g. 1Ton. Supplier says oops, sorry, only lifetime for up to 8600lbs.

I grease the crap out of everything, did so right before my Xmas trip to Idaho and for there to be rust already evident with less than 5K miles was a big surprise.

So now, even after asking my mechanic to replace ANY OEM stuff with lifetime warranty parts once again, I'm getting gypped.

Need suggestion on GOOD u-joints. .

Like I said BEFORE this THREAD is to get a group together to buy the hubs at a price break. NOT about a suggestion about good u joints. Your truck is a prime example for the reason to put them on.

 

[RolandJ]

What is the cost for my truck I'd be interested.

 

[Motorhead]

What is the cost for my truck I'd be interested.

RolandJ, With your mods that you list for your truck, You would probably want the kit with the Dynaloc hubs instead of the Warn hubs. The Dynaloc hubs are stronger.
$2195 for the kit, No sales tax(out of Calif) and $122. 40 shipping If you want the Warn hubs then it is about $405. 00 less

 

[Frank150]

I posted on the other thread for ball joints but I see you also have an ems kit for sale. Message me for a phone number please, I am interested.

 

[retirednak]

Not interested in the group buy since I installed the hubs a couple weeks ago,along with new BJ's as well as new u-joints. This is by far the best money spent on my truck. It drives like a different truck all together. I did notice an increase in fuel mileage,but winter weather keeps me from getting a true test. The truck even seems to be smoother riding. The only thing that bugs me is are the Mileage Marker Hubs. There is not a lot of space to twist the hubs,they do provide a plastic do-da to engage or disengage the hubs. I would pay a few bucks extra to get different hubs if I was doing it again. If your thinking about installing the hubs,quit thinking and break out your visa card.