Dynatrac service item numbers?

[CHubbard]

I installed a Dynatrac free spin on my 2003 2500. I was suprised to find in the documentation only Dynatrac numbers for the parts - bearings, seals, ect. I have been reading here about locally available service components. Does anyone have a cross-ref of the service parts - Dynatrac to Local Parts Store? I would like to keep the inner bearing & race, outer bearing & race, grease seal, ect part numbers in the truck in case of an on-highway breakdown. Any help appreciated Thanks!

 

[JAlderman]

All the serviceable components in the kit are Dana 60 parts. Bearings, races and seals.

 

[CHubbard]

Dana 60 Part Numbers?

Thank you for that information. Can I go to a parts store and tell them I have a Dana 60 front end and purchase the wear items (bearings, seals, ect0? Is a Dana 60 what my 2001 Dodge 2500 4x4 had in the front-end?



thanks again. chad

 

[steved]

Older Dana 60... try telling them a Dana 60 from a 92 Dodge W250 with a Cummins. That should get you close.



You can also take the bearing/race numbers right from the bearings and races themselves.



steved

 

[CarlsonR]

I haven't installed my kit yet, i will get the numbers off the parts this morning and post them for you,I think mine were all timken parts

 

[steved]

I haven't installed my kit yet, i will get the numbers off the parts this morning and post them for you,I think mine were all timken parts

I believe mine were all Timken also.



I think the hardest bearing to get would be the spindle bearing becuase the DT kit uses 35-spline 1. 5" stubs in the 3rd gen kit, and not the more common 30-spline 1. 33" stubs used in normal D60 productions.



steved

 

[CarlsonR]

outter bearing Timken TL2620,inner Timken LM104949 races are installed so couldn't see numbers but I think they can match them off the bearing numbers

 

[CHubbard]

Awesome - thanks for the bearing part numbers.

That is awesome! Thank you for the bearing numbers. I have packed the bearings with Amsoil 2000 grease and reset the preload, now if I can just get them to run without getting hot, then life should be good.



thanks again for the part numbers. it is appreciate.

 

[RJWEST]

hot equals to tight, but, don't check them after braking down,

need to cost,trans brake if possible, up hill to a stop to get a good
reading,( minimal braking. . ) i use a cheapo lazer thermometer...

 

[steved]

hot equals to tight, but, don't check them after braking down,



need to cost,trans brake if possible, up hill to a stop to get a good

reading,( minimal braking. . ) i use a cheapo lazer thermometer...

Correct... I was driving 300 mile legs of my last trip in 90*F weather with my slide in camper loaded... the hubs were barely warm to the touch...



You can also see how tight they are by spinning the wheel... if you only get a revolution or so, they are too tight. There was a thread about this on another board about a week ago... most indicated around 3 complete turns before the tire stopped spinning...



steved

 

[RJWEST]

steved, which kit do you have or did you do an axle conversation...

Also: do you remove the caliber to spin the wheel, my pads drag rotation down
quite a bit, been using the " slight" play to adjust the nut,

 

[steved]

I'm using their kit for the AAM. I adjusted it according to their instructions which is torque to 50 ft-lb (to seat the bearings), back the nut off, re-tighten to 15ft-lbs, and install the second nut.

I have been running that way for over 1. 5 years now... and as I said, my hubs hardly ever get warm. I packed the cavity completely full of grease (as in a tube of grease per side)... used Valvoline's red grease, nothing special.


steved

 

[RJWEST]

Steved Thanks for the info,