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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Dyno time...

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Ok is this normal with ULSD?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck Profile?

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So some buddies and I got a date to do some runs. I am shooting for 600hp. With the setup I got do you think I can get there? I have a Snow Stage 3 that will be here on Thursday. Oh and I am running 22* timing at the moment. The AFC and the plate are full forward and am running about 49 psi. It cleans the smoke pretty good. Anything that I can do to hit 600hp or do you think that I am almost there?
 
I would say a wild guess would be 500-530 range depending on whats done to the pump. To hit 600 with that charger you need a good bit of fuel. Just my thoughts.
 
You need more fuel and air for 600 RWHP... ... I would say around 550 as you sit. To hit the 600 mark change out the turbo for a 66mm version or get a set of twins and send the pump in and have it turned up.
 
Don't know what 435's are like but I have a set of injectors that I bet I could pop that turbo with... . after some tuning. I will tell you that there is still HP to have, if your zero plate is full forward then it's not even being used..... your AFC is now your plate.



Jim
 
I would start by backing the timing of to maybe 17-18* at the most. Your not running nearly enough fuel to be that high on the timing chart. Everything else is pretty much there but with the current set-up, 600hp is very doubtful IMHO. Like the others had stated, I would dump more fuel in and step up the turbo to a 66mm compressor or twins. You'll be above 500hp for sure but more is required to get to 600. :)



Joe
 
So if I had the pump sent in to be tweaked and got some Laser Cut DVs would that be enough fuel? Or do I need bigger injectors again?
 
Well if you sent the pump in and were able to get 500cc of fuel, not sure what your inj are. Your still gonna need more air after the pump work.
 
Timebomb said:
Well if you sent the pump in and were able to get 500cc of fuel, not sure what your inj are. Your still gonna need more air after the pump work.

check out my signature , i ran 570 and 1138 @ fall brawl this year with out using the nos. not sure how much more i could really get out of it. Correct me if im wrong but i think a stock 180 pump only pushes 200-250 cc of fuel . so i think your correct with the pump work idea, i talked to II and they told me they have a pump called the dragon fly lol not to be confused with the dragon flow pump and it with push 500cc of fuel and still gives you great street driveability. I asked about running the dragon flow pump and they said that one is about 700cc and doesnt like the street as much lol.

I asked what if i ran it with the valet swith on and they told me it would still push a 100 cc more fuel than my stock pump. hope it helps
 
wildmanben said:
I suppose I should dig into the AFC and get some more room for rack travel then... .

Messing with the AFC is not going to give you any added power @ WOT. The AFC only controls the pre-boost/low boost fueling. Once you build boost the AFC arm moves out of the way and your plate profile and placement of the plate will determine fueling from there.



Joe
 
but if you have a 0 plate and the gov arm hits the afc arm first, then your afc becomes the plate, but if you modify to afc to push past the plate, then your plate really does its job.





On another note here:

Just talked to a few shops about getting pump work done. Industrial Injection told me to get a FASS system and LC DVs to get more fuel. They said that they couldnt do anythng to get more fuel other than go to 13mm p&b's. Ok fine. Call up Columbus diesel Supply. They could get me up to 400-450cc's for about $1800 and have it flowed and balanced. Called Schieds. $750 to flow 450cc's and tune it to 4500rpm.



I am thinking of pulling the pump and sending it to Schieds. Or would you guys think otherwise. They seemed to be the most knowledgeable and helpful on the phone to me also.
 
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