Dyno’d 360 HP, want to break 400. Your suggestions?

[JGK]

To all the higher horsepower owners/builders out there:



Consider the current setup:



’98 12v 5speed with the 215 HP pump (CPL 2175), with these mods:



#11 plate, nearly fully forward

Medium AFC spring, backed all the way off.

TST boost elbow in place

Timing at 5. 7mm lift on barrel 1 using spill-port method.

3K governor kit.

Rocker adjusted per Piers directions.

Pump has been bench tuned.

370 Diamond B injectors.

ATS 3-pc exhaust manifold.

Piers’ HX35 turbo with 14cm wastegated exhaust housing.

4” exhaust.

BHAF for intake air.



It ran 360 hp/853 ft-lbs torque (uncorrected) on a Mustang dyno.



Now we’d like to solidly break over 400 hp.



Constraints:



Do it the most economical way (of course).

The truck is a daily driver and only tows a few times a year. It must remain “street-able”.

No propane or nitrous. Just straight diesel.

No desire to swap it for an overly-valved replacement!



Assuming a turbo upgrade would be done, there is the modified HX35/14cm plus the stock HX35/12 for sale to help finance the mods.



What would be your suggestions on what to do? What other mods would you recommend that don’t contribute directly to power increases but are needed to support them (e. g. head gasket)?



Thanks,

-Jay

 

[LaserBob]

1) Find a Dynojet.



2) Try a G-Tech.



See what you get.

 

[drrhoades]

mileage

JGK,

I was just wondering what kind of mileage you are getting with that setup?



Thanks

Doug

 

[JGK]

Bob,



1) Did that. Got nearly the same numbers.



2) 2 out of 3, don't need the third. Not trying to fool myself!





drhoades,



Generally about 16 +/- on summer fuel if I don't hot rod it too much. Pretty consistent in town and freeway driving.



-Jay

 

[M Barnett]

A bigger fuel plate will get you there. I think most of the venders will take back a plate and trade you. Can't get any cheaper than that. My #8 plate works well.

Michael

 

[HEMI®Dart]

JGK,



A #10 TST plate should be worth about 50 more hp over the #11. How are your EGT's? A PDR Hx40 will give you 20 hp more, lower egts and give you a STRONG midrange & Top end.



A # 0 plate is another option. BUT, It takes tuning to get it right though. Along with AFC mods to get more travel out of the link.



Al from Piers wrote:



"With a '96 we have here with 370

injectors,0 plate, pdr modified hx35 high flow delivery valves, we dynoed

at 442 hp 1089 torque so as you can see dependant on what set up you have

the 0 plate can be a substaintal gain".

 

[gitchesum]

Like Hemi Said, the #10 plate will put you over 400 with your mods.

I just dynoed 405 with almost the same mods as you. except I have the #10 plate.

You should actually do a littel more due to your turbo and exhaust.

 

[Fred Swanson]

Piers HX-40 will net you closer to 30-35 HP.

PM azgearpro, for his details. His put out 370 HP out of lockup with his DTT 91% TC at may madness. He made 2 runs, I believe.



That was before we put the HX-40 on. He had the Piers HX-35 for those runs.



EGT's are much better, and mid and upper RPM power is much improved.

 

[JGK]

Thanks all for your replies. As you can guess, I already had a tentative game plan: Piers' HX40 and a #10 plate. But I wanted (and still want) to hear your ideas. As always, there are multiple ways to reach the goal.



My concern on the HX40 has been low end turbo lag, but I've heard here that is not so much an issue with Piers' turbo. And I think it's a must as fueling goes up.



I intend to pose this question to Piers/Al for his input, as well as Ken Jones down in SLC, Utah.



Do you really think larger delivery valves are needed or advised? I was thinking my pump already had the 191s, or are they the 181s, and if the latter, are 191s much of an improvement?



I know some are doing the #0 plate, but I'm thinking that may require more tinkering and adjustment than I need or care to do.



I see other going to plates with smaller numbers than #10 on trucks like mine but it is difficult to find out exactly what those do on a truck like mine (the vendors don't recommend and therefore don't address them).



Fred,



I will PM azgearpro for details, unless he cares to chime in here or contact me first.





Thanks again, all. Keep the suggestions coming!

-Jay

 

[Cummins Corvette]

Ah... forget tinkering. Just take the plate out.









J/K. I might be persuaded to do one round of the block without it to see what it did tho.

 

[Don M]

Jay,



An HX40/16 and a number 10 plate!! 400 plus HP no problem.



Don~



edit- oh yeah, fill the crankcase with amsoil NOT!!!!

 

[MikeR]

Originally posted by JGK

My concern on the HX40 has been low end turbo lag, but I've heard here that is not so much an issue with Piers' turbo. And I think it's a must as fueling goes up.



Do you really think larger delivery valves are needed or advised? I was thinking my pump already had the 191s, or are they the 181s, and if the latter, are 191s much of an improvement?



-Jay

Piers' HX40/16 has virtually NO lag! But it more than makes up for any in the mid to top end. It is incredible in the top end!



I believe your 215 pump has 181 valves not 191's.



-Mike

 

[Forrest]

Piers HX40-18 & the 0 plate. Maybe the 16 version, but I don't know it the 0 plate will gen too much EGT for it.



The #10 defuels as the rpm goes up as where the 0 does not. On top of that, you won't have the urge to upgrade plates later ... there isn't any more choices. Oo.

 

[Deezul1]

On a dynojet I did 389hp in Ft Worth Tx and 417hp at May Madness in Las Vegas with no changes between locations. I get 17. 5 mpg all the time around town and 21 hiway and it tows very well with a 7000lb trailer. I am still using the stock turbo (12cm)with the TST boost elbow and the plate all the way forward. Do the follower adjustment as outlined on Piers web page, it made a big difference on mine. Oh yea I use Amsoil and it has to be worth at least 50hp (hehe gotta stir the pot now and then)