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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Early 12v-style Fuel Filter Retrofit to '97/'98

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The '98 12v I recently bought has a Prime-Loc filter system on it that I don't like a whole lot. I find that it gets in the way of tending to things on that side of the engine. I realize that at filter changing time its value would become apparent. However, I've been thinking of adapting the spin-on filters of the '94-'96 year trucks to work on the '97 and '98 models that use cartridge filters. I think that they'd be more user-friendly than the cartridge type. I almost bought a filter head for the earlier style offered on ebay, but when the bidding got high, and realizing there would still be a need for modification, I gave up on buying it and decided to seriously consider making my own filter head for the spin-on filters.



I'm writing to see whether anyone knows of any pitfalls to putting the spin-on filters on the '97 and '98 trucks and also to see whether others might have interest in a product like this. I could produce them for sale on this site. Thanks for reading and any contribution to this project you might make.
 
no modifications needed! i have a96 spin on filter head on my 98 engine. direct bolt on. i think they are about $140 for the head from cummins
 
That's good. I think I've found one through Cummins. I'm skeptical because it cost $58. 31.



It's interesting that there seem to be many different opinions about what configuration is good. Some want a Prime Loc. I want to get rid of the Prime Loc right away and get a spin-on filter. Others like the cartridge type.
 
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I posted on this yesterday but my post disappeared :confused: but between my '96 and '98 I have a slight preference for the fuel filter setup on my '98. Seems a little easier to maneuver. I think the fitting on the bottom of the canister for the '96 is a pain screwing in and out because of the fuel drain and WIF wire. You can disconnect the wire but it's still kinda clumsy to deal with. The '98 just drop the canister and maneuver it out. I like being able to see what the element looks like and if there's sediment in the bowl. My 2 cents anyway. . .

Vaughn
 
I agree with Vaughn...

The 98 drop in style is a ton easier to work with when its time for service. not to mention how frail the WIF wiring is on the bottom of the earlier models. Also,I have had the center stud come off and out with the spin on style filter a time or two and when that happens its a PIA to be a contortionist to get it back into its place..... Andy
 
I agree with Vaughn...
Also,I have had the center stud come off and out with the spin on style filter a time or two and when that happens its a PIA to be a contortionist to get it back into its place..... Andy

Luckily I haven't had that happen but sounds like a pain Andy. Another beef I have is with the cheezy fuel drain thingy . . . sometimes diesel runs out around the outside of the outlet fitting when draining, making a mess of the job. The lever on the '98 is clean and easy.

What I would like to do is try & fit a 2000-up canister on, but I think it will interfere with the lift pump which is almost directly underneath.
 
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The spin on fuel filter on my '95 is really easy to r & r. There is a learning curve to figure it out, but once you do it's simple. If you disconnect the WIF connector first it's no problem. I have had the center stuf come out a few times, but didn't have any trouble putting it back in place.



The big thing is that a filter wrench makes the job harder.
 
mine is easy! i dont have the wires for the water seprator on mime, i have a water sep filter on my FASS so i have a reg spin on filter on my housing, plus a body lift so it take 2 mins to do a filter change... lickity split!
 
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