Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Get a 30psi gauge with the pipe thread coming out the bottom of the gauge. Get the tubing kit that is for hooking up mechanical oil pressure gauges, etc. ( I saw these at NAPA for around $5, gauge can be found for around $10-$20 mine was priced $8. 49 but I'd had it for awhile. ) If you have a standard transmission you can lift up the boot around the four wheel drive shift lever. Drill a small hole thru the floor pan at this location. Be sure it is in a position not to hit anything underneath. Be sure to use a rubber gromet. (This is also a good place to run a CB coax to the outside) Use wire ties to route the small hose up the fuel line, and dip-stick tube, to the fuel filter top. The gauge can be velcroed to be held in place on the carpet just in front of the shift lever. Nothing is seen but the gauge. Be sure to check for fuel leaks after all connections are made. This was meant to be temporary, but as good as it seems to be working I may just leave it that way. Just won't be able to see gauge at night. I don't much like the plastic hose but I've used it in other apps. for years with no problems. This is only an idea and the way I did mine. Use it for what it is worth.
I also checked the voltage to the bottom of the stock lift-pump. When you first turn on the key the voltage GOES TO 12 VOLTS. The pump runs a few seconds , builds up pressure, and stops. When the truck starts, the pump voltage goes back to 12-13 -14 volts, what ever the Alt. is putting out. What am I reading about the duty cycle and different voltages going to the pump? Am I missing something? If I am right seems this would eliminate low voltage as a cause for the failures. Also it would be possible to eliminate the stock pump altogether, install a more reliable pump closer to the tank, use the stock Red wire to run the new pump and not have to use a relay or run two pumps.
What do you guys think, am I on the right track? I still say anyone who has a failed pump needs to take it apart to see what actually is failing. Please post what you find. Also, remember, a zero reading WTO POST-filter doesn't necessarily mean a failed pump, could just be a dirty filter. I'd sure like to get this figured out to restore my confidence in my truck's reliability.
I also checked the voltage to the bottom of the stock lift-pump. When you first turn on the key the voltage GOES TO 12 VOLTS. The pump runs a few seconds , builds up pressure, and stops. When the truck starts, the pump voltage goes back to 12-13 -14 volts, what ever the Alt. is putting out. What am I reading about the duty cycle and different voltages going to the pump? Am I missing something? If I am right seems this would eliminate low voltage as a cause for the failures. Also it would be possible to eliminate the stock pump altogether, install a more reliable pump closer to the tank, use the stock Red wire to run the new pump and not have to use a relay or run two pumps.
What do you guys think, am I on the right track? I still say anyone who has a failed pump needs to take it apart to see what actually is failing. Please post what you find. Also, remember, a zero reading WTO POST-filter doesn't necessarily mean a failed pump, could just be a dirty filter. I'd sure like to get this figured out to restore my confidence in my truck's reliability.
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