Easy starting Cummins?

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I really like my 12V cummins but ever since day one it takes about 2 seconds of cranking for it to start, not really bad but in warmer weather it takes a little longer.

The other day a contractor that was working on a neighbors house and I noticed twice his cummins started with just a crack of the starter and he was gone, I didn't have time to chase after him to find out if he had andthing special done to his.

Are there any mods/trick methods so that I can enjoy quick start ups with just a short burst from the starter?

Thanks, Roger

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'98 12V 3500 Dually Std Cab, Auto, 3. 54, Banks Stinger Plus, Sun Coast TC. BD valve body, BD Pressureloc

 

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Roger,

Try pressing the throttle a little bit. It should start almost instantly. Your idle may be a little slow.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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Roger,

It's possible you are losing prime in your fuel system. Every Cummins engine I "know" lights up right away when starting.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran off into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.

 

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Mine starts almost instantly even if it has not been run for a few days. I agree with the idle maybe being too slow. If it's properly adjusted you should not have to touch the pedal at all even in winter.

 

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both answers are potentially correct--there's oodles of threads concerning loss of prime due to cracked fuel return lines at the back of the engine--air leaks into there, and give a momentary starve until a couple revolutions has made pressure---mine starts both ways---no pedal-press--> bah-wah-wah-wah-vroom
1/4" of pedal press-->bah-vroom

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BOMBed 98. 4 1B7KF23D4WJxxxxxx

 

[Archive]

OK I think the idle is too low (650 in drive with A. C. on) I checked and found the low speed idle lock nut and adjusting screw but they are soooo hard to get to and reach. What is the best way to adjust? Thanks Roger

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'98 12V 3500 Dually Std Cab, Auto, 3. 54, Banks Stinger Plus, Sun Coast TC. BD valve body, BD Pressureloc

 

[Archive]

Roger,

The easiest way is to jam a screw driver in the throttle linkage mess at the TPS end so that it is not at idle. Then the pressure is off the low speed idle screw so you can turn it by hand. Loosen the lock nut with a 10mm wrench and turn the screw. If yours is a 4X4 you probably need something to stand on to reach the screw. Repeat until the idle is right or you get disgusted. Long arms and skinny fingers about nine inches long help a lot.

 

[Archive]

Joe, thanks for the tip I managed to get the adjust done right the first time. 750 rpm in drive with AC on. Starts with just a crack of the starter now. The idle seems high in neutral now about 900/950 but I can live with that and now maybe it won't try to stall on me when it is really hot.

You were also right about the throtle springs, they are fine... the transmission spring was stretched out when I did the preasureloc, I am going to upgrade the spring and vacuum solenoid and hopefully that will cure the bucking.

Many thanks to all who helped, Roger

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'98 12V 3500 Dually Std Cab, Auto, 3. 54, Banks Stinger Plus, Sun Coast TC. BD valve body, BD Pressureloc