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ECU Rebuild

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What are the causes of delayed shifting

Current reputable ECM suppliers?

Lights on dash are slow to bootup + "wait to start light doesnt come on anymore which I suspect is a failing ecu. Whats the best place to get it repaired/ order a new one? Also how to I check for alternator noise?
 
Many people from the Mopar1973Man site have used Auto Computer Specialist with good results.

Auto Computer Specialist
221 S State Rd 7, Plantation, Florida, 33317
Phone Number: (954) 513-8359

- John
 
Years ago I used ACS for an ecm in my 01. The first one they sent me didn’t work well but a phone call and they had another one on the way. Still working in the truck today probably been at least 10 years.
 
Also how to I check for alternator noise?

Use a multimeter set on AC volts (milli volt scale) Positive lead to alternator output wire and negative lead to battery ground. Do the test when no heavy electrical loads are applied (grid heaters, wiper motor, etc). Results should .05 milliamps or less. Personally, I think there are too many variables for this test to be reliable. Many people have performed the test, condemned and replaced their alternators only to find the AC noise still there.

More important is the routing and condition of vehicle electrical grounds. There is an inexpensive ground wiring modification called the W-T mod that is worth doing. It essentially provides shorter and better routes for ECM and PCM ground wiring as well as pulling out the alternator output wire from a long loom with other sensitive wiring and connecting the output wire to the passenger side battery instead of the driver side battery. Everyone that I have known to perform the W-T wiring mod has had reduced alternator AC noise afterward, including myself.

- John
 
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Use a multimeter set on AC volts (milli volt scale) Positive lead to alternator output wire and negative lead to battery ground. Do the test when no heavy electrical loads are applied (grid heaters, wiper motor, etc). Results should .05 milliamps or less. Personally, I think there are to many variables for this test to be reliable. Many people have performed the test, condemned and replaced their alternators only to find the AC noise still there.

More important is the routing and condition of vehicle electrical grounds. There is an inexpensive ground wiring modification called the W-T mod that is worth doing. It essentially provides shorter and better routes for ECM and PCM ground wiring as well as pulling out the alternator output wire from a long loom with other sensitive wiring and connecting the output wire to the passenger side battery instead of the driver side battery. Everyone that I have known to perform the W-T wiring mod has had reduced alternator AC noise afterward, including myself.

- John
Yeah, this doesn't suprise me. I've had to mess with the grounds before for other issues. Thanks for the heads-up on the alternator. Will look into the wiring mod
 
Lights on dash are slow to bootup + "wait to start light doesnt come on anymore which I suspect is a failing ecu. Whats the best place to get it repaired/ order a new one? Also how to I check for alternator noise?
Before you send it off to ANYONE I'm going to recommend looking up the company on google Earth street view. It's very likely that the building you see at their listed address looks nothing like a legitimate business.
I have been through an absolute nightmare for the last 2+ years after my ECU failed and I sent it to 2 different companies for attempted repair. The first, AutoECU.com, made the engine run worse than before. The second, Flagship1, supposedly repaired it and sent it back via USPS priority mail with only the minimal included insurance - who of course lost the unit.
I don't know if the chip shortage is getting better but I do know there are a lot of scammers trying to get a hold of your parts.
 
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