Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Edge a stock trans??????

[KPotter44]

Hello all. Love this site and thanks for all the useful info I have recieved in the past. I have a problem/situation and it seems the more I read about it, the more confused I get. The truck is a 99 2500 quad cab auto with 110,000 miles. I bought it new and have always done the service and repairs myself. Truck is stock except for the lack of a muffler. We recently purchased a travel trailer that weighs in at 3300 empty and I'm guessing close to 5000 all loaded up. I am considering an Edge to get a little more pulling power but I have read that the stock trans might not hold up. I have always serviced the trans regularly and adjusted the bands. The local shop in my rural area recommends a Jasper trans with a triple disc torque converter for $4000 installed, and then the edge. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[RustyJC]

All I can do is pass along the experience of a fellow RVer in our Texas Boomer RVing group. I had an Edge EZ (along with DD2 injectors, BHAF and 4" Jardine exhaust system) on my 2002 3500 ETH/DEE that we used to tow a 16,000 lb GVWR 5th wheel. My friend rode in my truck and got the bug to hop up his 99 2500 24 valve to get some extra power to tow his 11,000 lb GVWR 5th wheel, so he added the Edge EZ. Within the first 1000 miles, he managed to roast the torque converter lockup clutch in his stock 47RE. Maybe with the lighter trailer and a light foot you might be able to get away with it, but all I can suggest is be prepared for the worst.

Rusty

 

[SnoKing]

A fresh stock transmission can usually take one upgrade but not two. Key is fresh, and at 110K transmission is not fresh. It is a slippery slope.

We have for years stated.

1. Gauges including fuel pressure.
2. transmission
3. Upgrades

Snoking

 

[KPotter44]

So fuel pressure, egt and trans temp gauges?

 

[SnoKing]

I had EGT, Boost, trans temp in the output line, and fuel pressure. SNOKING

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[B.G. Smith]

I previously owned a 99 3500, at that time I was towing a 31' Carri LIte. With a Van Akin plug and play I could at will slip the torque converter. Had torque converter replaced once under warranty, I babied it and had 115,000 on it when I sold it. Until/unless you upgrade the transmission/torque converter you won't be able to handle any more horse power. bg




m

 

[BigPapa]

I dare say you will gain more "power to the ground" building the transmission than the Edge will provide.

 

[Joe Mc]

As mentioned by "Snoking" above:

A fresh stock transmission can usually take one upgrade but not two. Key is fresh, and at 110K transmission is not fresh. It is a slippery slope.
We have for years stated.

1. Gauges including fuel pressure.
2. transmission
3. Upgrades

What is being said here is, at least IMHO:
1. Get gauges to monitor vitals = Fuel Pressure, Trans Temp., Boost/EGT
2. Build the trans = "FIRST" (before any power adders). Select one of the big outfits that "specialize" in Diesel Auto Transmission building (no offense to any trans builders out there), such as; DTT, ATS, Goerend, etc. There are quite a few - search this site (or the net) and do your homework. It won't be cheap, so be prepared and remember, you get what you pay for. Pay a few grand for a local "rebuild" and drop a few BOMBs and you'll most likely be dropping a few more grand again in less time than you'd expect. Shop smartly and don't focus on who might offer something for less than someone else. Talk with the outfit, ask about warranty, let them know what you plan to do and give them an idea of power adders you plan to use. If you're not sure about what power adders they "should" be able to help you figure out what's needed for what you want to do.
3. Upgrades - Remember this: once you start it's hard to be satisfied, referred to on the TDR as "The Slippery Slope". Set your mind on what you want to do and consider having the trans built to handle "more" than that, because "the slope is slippery".

A few things to consider are;
1-if you are thinking of "just" (oh yea right) adding a power box, think a bit beyond. Power boxes typically provide more fuel and timing.
2-With this "more fuel" you'll need more fuel volume and better air charge to help provide and burn that more fuel, With this more air "in" you gotta provide a path for more air "out". Start shopping; Turbos, Exhaust, Fueling and air Filtration systems.
3-So once you've added all this great stuff, the slope presents itself. "Must Have More Power".... Go back to #2 and include "injectors".
4-Injectors - many, many are available out there. Some are great, some not so great. Like the when interviewing the transmission builders, search, do your homework, decide level of power you're looking for, call the providers and chat, what makes theirs so good, consider customer service, availability and above all quality of product. Search the good ol TDR for who has had good/bad experiences with what type/brand injectors.

Once again, not to offend anyone, just MHO.

Me, I started stock @ 75k miles (purchased in 01 with 75k) added gauges, as mentioned: Fuel, Temp, and combo Boost/EGT. "No BOMBs/Power adders" and I didn't haul anything except the occasional load of mulch, soil, a load of bricks only in the bed "never" pulled a trailer. I suspect the previous owner (a Mason) hauled a bit more than I ever did or will, I found a picture of the truck with a trailer connected and a backhoe on it. So, I like you have done all appropriate PMs, following the Dodge Shop Manual (especially important with trans service) and use high quality fluids. Then at around 115k miles (you're not that far behind) the trans began slightly slipping, drop pan and there was a little more "material" at the bottom than I expected. Crossed my fingers, fluid & filter change and specific to the manual check/adjust the bands. A week later slipping still, drop pan and more material. To the Trans builder. Add about another 5k miles or so, then the power adder, then the 90hp injectors. Trip to the dyno = 370hp 720tq. Another 5k miles or so "Must Have More Power". Set of Injectors, bigger turbo followed by another trip to the dyno (see sign for injectors, turbo & dyno results) and I found my "stopping place". Could I have kept going for more, for sure, but I was fortunate to just say "this thing is all I'll ever need just the way it is". And, BTW, has been this way for almost 100k miles (presently @ 217) and probably going on 10 years. I'm happy with it, but, that's me.

Good luck, happy hunting, ask, ask, ask, as you do your "homework", spend your money with good decisions backing you and remember; you get what you pay for.

 

[JR]

My experiences with reman Jasper transmissions are not so positive. I know people that played hell with warranty work as well. My opinion, if/when you do a trans put the feelers out for a good local shop that specializes in diesel transmissions. A local shop will have skin in the game so to speak, and will be much more likely to work with you if you have any issues down the road.

 

[KPotter44]

Joe MC, Snoking, B G Smith, Rusty JC, I appreciate all your responses. I understand that some folks might get carried away with the power mods, but not me. I've had this truck since it was new in 99 and done nothing to it except for removing the muffler and installing MagTech trans pan and rear diff covers. I actually removed the cat too, but the year before I retired and moved out of the Bay Area they started to smog diesels. I live in a rural area now so no smog required and the nearest large City that might have a good trans shop is 2 hours away. I ordered a Hypertech Max Energy and it will stay in the stock position until we pull the trailer. No hot rodding here. Then next month the gauges will go in. I was a fleet mechanic for 35 years and have always done all the service and repairs on the truck myself. Again, thanks for all the comebacks.