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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) edge comp and 275's

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Round town fuel milage

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any one else running this combination. would you reccomend running a push pump. i am only driving this baby, but i like the power as well hard to keep your foot out of it. i have the adjustable boost fooler what would be a good setting for boost pressure with the comp. will have the comp next week, my three stage fried due to factory wiring failure.
 
i would recommend it!! i am running 275's with my edge drag comp i put on last weekend! and just running it on the 1st setting cause my transmission is not done yet!! and its pretty cool!! engine sounds better the slush box isnt as bad but still bad!! i think its a pretty cool set up! cant wait till my transmission is done and everything else to go out and play!:D
 
I also have the same set up. I try to stay out of it on level four and five until I reach over 2200 RPM. I still have my stock clutch. Most of the time I run it on level 3 sub level 3. It works good, but I am thinking of DDII's. Want to buy a set of 275's? Slightly used. I have about 20,000 miles on them. I almost forgot... . I have seen boost spikes of 36. Most of the time they won't go over 34 psi.
 
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no push until 500+ hp

Pusher pumps add wiring, plumbing, and another puny pump to go out. A simpler solution is to eliminate the banjo fittings with adapters and AN-type fittings and new lines.



Wildcat and others offer the parts to do this. I used the Wildcat kit and have 13psi at idle and can just barely get it below 8# at 400+ RWHP. This is on a 30,000 mile old LP.



Call Rod or your favorite vendor today. ;)
 
Just remember you're gonna need a bigger turbo with that HP setup. Don't need a pusher pump setup until you get past 425hp or <5psi at the inlet to the VP44 at WOT.
 
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you can call if you would like... (702) 612-4911. That is a cell number.



David
 
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Klocklier is probably right about the pusher pump setup. Personally though I would still do it, more fuel at WOT is more lubrication for that weak link, the VP44. I am sure all the kits are really nice that do this but if you buy your own parts and make the kit, which can be found at most ACE hardwares or hydraulic supply type shop you can do it for about $45 total cost for fittings, wiring to extend out from the stock harness and hose. Use the stock pump back by the tank on a bracket and you will see psi

I am using 1/2" ID hose the whole way (except at the stock pickup, there is about 8" of 3/8" ID) and I see 15 at Idle, 11 psi WOT with my HP setup.

Secondly, if you map it all out before you start and provided no extra trips to the parts store are needed you can do it all in about 2-3hours.
 
You don't need a pusher or the hassle if you clean up the restriction of the factory fuel system. Move the lift pump back and remove ALL banjo's. This system on my ride will not drop below 13psi @ wot on 5/5 from stop to flat out.
 
i am not towing anything with this truck does anyone think that i will still need a bigger turbo? i keep a close eye on my gauges, i had the three stage edge which gave me 36 psi of boost, aaron at edge said i shoul be right at 40 with this steup. but i am going to adjut my fooler to keep it down a bit, untill i put a south bend in this winter. if i make it that far. what is too hot for the pyro pre turbo it has always been below 1300* i have heard guys say it is safe untill 1500* but that sounds too hot for me. thanks for the resopnses. anyone with a comp and ddII's give me a shout i would like to see how you like that setup, i want to step up to those also, i like my 275's but want bigger.
 
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1300 is the generally accepted limit for a sustained temp. Most folks will let the pyro go well beyond that for short bursts of speed/power.
 
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