Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Edge Comp. Check Engine Light

[RAJohnson]

I just finished installing a Edge Comp. And the Check Engine Light or Malfunction Indicator Light will not go out, when I turn the key to the ON position. I have double checked everything like the manual say to and I still can not get it to go out. I have not fired the truck yet because of this light. Is there something I am missing? I have tried Edge tech but they have gone home for the night. Any Ideas?

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

Just start it and go! You should've disconnected the batteries before installing the Comp and then make sure everything is done before connecting the batteries. It will take a bunch of start cycles for the check engine light to go away or you can go to Auto Zone and they will clear it. If the truck doesn't start or runs funny come back and tell us and we'll go from there. If you didn't disconnect the batteries that is why the light is on.

 

[Graphic man]

make sure the ground is to the neg side of the battery and the pump wire is attached good



keep us posted



Scott

 

[RAJohnson]

Yes I did disconnect the Batteries befor starting the Installation, and reconnected them after I had checked my Installation. The ground was landed where Edge says to land it and it appears to be a good connection as well as the pump wire. I am going to go start it. And I will post later as to the progress. Thanks for your Response

 

[RAJohnson]

Well it runs great. WOW what a difference HP can make. The light went out after the truck started. But is still there when the key is only in the ON position and not running. After starting it goes out, is this normal?



This is going to be FUN :-laf

 

[R-N-R]

I think that is normal, like a pretest or something.



You should move the comp ground to the batt, unless Edge has already changed their instructions.

 

[Boondocker]

Did you Posi-tap the pump wire?

RAJohnson,



Did you use a Posi-Tap connector on the pump wire? If so, which one (black or green)?



I was looking at my wire this morning, very tight quarters in there, and the insulation around the two pump wires is very stiff. Were you able to slide the insulation as per the instructions, or did you trim it to make room for the Posi-Tap "button"?



I started a thread a couple of weeks ago asking if anyone had actually tapped their pump wire with a Posi-Tap connector. I got a few replies but no first-hand accounts.



Thanks for going first



Neil

 

[RJPotts]

Yes, it is normal for the CEL light, and a bunch of other lights to come on when the key is in the "ON" position and the truck is not running. It's always done it, you just probably haven't noticed.

Mine does it every time and I didn't notice it until I had my truck for about 5 months. Freaked me out too. Sometimes it'll go off eventually, sometimes it stays on.

-R. J.

 

[RAJohnson]

RAJohnson,



Did you use a Posi-Tap connector on the pump wire? If so, which one (black or green)?



I was looking at my wire this morning, very tight quarters in there, and the insulation around the two pump wires is very stiff. Were you able to slide the insulation as per the instructions, or did you trim it to make room for the Posi-Tap "button"?



I started a thread a couple of weeks ago asking if anyone had actually tapped their pump wire with a Posi-Tap connector. I got a few replies but no first-hand accounts.



Thanks for going first



Neil

Neil I used the Blue wire tap supplied with the comp. I believe it is a scotch lock. The quarters are very tight but if you unbolt the throttle assembly and lay to the side and remove the intake air horn there is a lot more room. I made a small slit in the insulation over the two wires and pulled it back down over the remaining insulation. That bought me enough room to make the tap as far away from the pump as I could, might have been 1/2". I felt that the wire tap was very positive. I am a electrician and have used these on more than one occasion over the years. Hope this helps