EGR Brakes?

[PPeters]

Need to do a brake job, wondering if any 1st gen people using EGR's?



Got pricing:--)



Are they worth it?



Pat

 

[RDusch]

Pat,

I did the EGR disk brake conversion and replaced all the rubber lines with stainless, did this back in sept, still no complaints, the truck stops perfectly straight and with the anti lock disconnected i can lock the wheels up any time even loaded, I LOVE MY NEW BRAKES !! ... ... ...



Rick D



here's a link to some pics



brake pics

 

[Case500D]

EGR Rear Brakes

PPeters,



I also have put the EGR rear disc conversion on my truck. I like them quite a bit. I have put 6K on mine and have done 2K of towing 12K pounds with them. I think the rear drums are more helpful on a really large load, but under most conditions the discs are great. I put the SS rear brake lines on and changed to DOT 5 brake fluid. The EGR kit is pricey, but is good quality. The brake pedal has a consistent feel everytime I stop. No more wondering when the brakes are going to engage. PM me if you have some specific questions. Thanks.



Jeremy

 

[boatpuller]

Jeremy,

Can you please elaborate on this comment,

I think the rear drums are more helpful on a really large load, but under most conditions the discs are great

It's the first almost negative thing I've heard about these brakes(except the cost).

I am ready to order a set in the very near future.

How does your parking brake hold now that you've got a few miles under your rotors?



Thanks,

Caleb

 

[dan_gilson]

I upgraded to ERG. All of their brake parts

are good quality. They looked good and fit perfect.



I did run into a little minor problem in that Dodge changed the fitting on the left front brake line and did not tell anyone. Glenn promptly took care of it.



My front to back bias is much better now. And they stop good when you stand on them.

 

[Case500D]

Boatpuller,



I am very happy with the conversion to rear disc brakes. I fully agree with dan_gilson that the front to back balance is much better. I just feel (only my opinion) that with a load on, such as a 6 to 10K gooseneck, the brakes don't pull as hard as the rear drums did with 3" shoes. Now let me also say that this was within the first 4K miles of having put these on the truck, so it may just be the fact that the rear brake pads were not fully seated. I am just posting what I have noticed. With all of that said, I would do the conversion again without any second thoughts. Bottom line is that if you are on the fence about converting, go for it!



BTW, I have not hooked the e-brake up yet. I will get it done when I can get into the heated shop.



Other comments would be that the rear rotors are 3/4 ton rotors. Consider using a residual brake pressure valve when going from drums to discs. Finally, plan for a day and a half to do it all. Murphy's Law will be present.



Hope this helps and doesn't confuse anyone.



Jeremy

 

[PPeters]

Rick: Nice documentation on the brakes! At least the finger didn't completely eject



After speaking with Glen I will probably use EGR's stuff, but I think I will keep the rear drums, just convert to 3". Anyone use EGR front rotors (cross slotted/drilled) vs. standard OEM's?



Jeremy, when you mounted your Unagoose, where did you move the brake line bracket to that is just behind the fuel tank. Mine got remounted to the bed crossmember over the axle. Any problems using the EGR stainless lines with new position?



Thanks Guys!



Pat

 

[rwinslow]

EGR Brakes are superior to the old drum system. I left my crude antilock hooked up and it works extremely well on the EGR Rear Disc conversion. I have better control and braking in a loaded condition (trailer towing at 12,000 lbs) then I ever did with the rear drums.



Support is unbelievable, quality and fit is first class. I would not even hesitate to put this system on the truck. And to top it off, the EGR Disc Brakes were cheaper than all of the drum parts I needed at 278,000 miles of wear and tear.

 

[dan_gilson]

Sorry I did not mention earlier but I also upgraded to the slotted rotors in the front. I can tell you doing this by yourself on a 4x4 is a really Pain in the A$$!.



The design of the front hubs have a lot of problems. You will need the service manual's optional puller because Dodge does not use assembly grease. Mine has not be off road signficantly but there was still some rust in there. You have to pound out all the studs to separate the rotors. Just don't miss and shatter the hub. I used a good piece of hard maple as a driver.



Getting the hubs back on is a bigger pain. The axle is not long enough to use it to nut the hub back on so you have to pound it on. I am really opposed to beating things together.



The rotor have been working just fine. Again, the appear to be really top quality.