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exhaust manifold gaskets - multilayer

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My 06 3500 DRW has an EGR valve... ... ..... sir. Maybe it is a Pennsylvania thing?



No it doesn't.



As it's been stated the only way to change it is the cam and to get a programmer to advance timing. The turbo can be changed too, but not as mandatory. A Cam like a Stage I Colt or a PDR will remove the "EGR" Cam timing, and the programmer will restore the injection timing.
 
subodh

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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: finland korsnäs
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tell me more about the camshaft. how much job to change it? will it give me more mpg and is it really true i dont my oil is cleener? that will incrase life on the engine right? but how will my smarty respond to that? is anyone have a manual for cam change and injector change out there? will swap in new injectors in a few days along with a fass 150gph and a arson cp3 upgrade. its a 2005 five truck with a bigger singel turbo and a smarty pod programmer (trown my cat away along time ago now it smells like a real diesel and sounds like one 2)
 
tell me more about the camshaft. how much job to change it? will it give me more mpg and is it really true i dont my oil is cleener? that will incrase life on the engine right? but how will my smarty respond to that?

It is a fairly big job to change the cam, but certainly not beyond your skill level if you're familiar with mechanic work.

Basically, the front of the truck has to be cleared (remove radiator, intercooler, condensor, fan, harmonic balancer, belt, pulleys, timing cover). Remove the valve cover, rocker arms, pedestals, crossovers, pushrods, etc. You use wooden dowel rods in place of the push rods to hold the tappets up while you slide out the cam and replace. It's also necessary to loosen the motor mounts and jack up the front of the engine to allow the cam gear to clear the front frame/grill support.

Many people claim 1 - 1. 5 mpg improvement with a cam change. I didn't see any change. Some people claim cleaner oil. I didn't see cleaner oil. Smarty and the cam will work great together!

--Eric
 
the 04. 5 up uses a incylinder egr scheme for emission control. you have to do a few things to remove it. first change the cam to a pdr or colt. at the same time have ddp hone the nozzles out 35 hp. next get a smarty jr and set on default tow. and last do a 5" turbo back straight pipe kit from fbd. get a m090072 resonator and a m090535 muffler from ryder truck parts. this will give you 40% increase in mpg and lower egt by 250* and the oil stays cleaner. it is to lengthly to explain how this works. and the 35 hp injectors is not for more power but to shorten duration, effective timing and decreasing the third injection pulse
 
40% gain in mpg??? To use simple numbers say my truck gets 10mpg, I do as above post states and now I will get 14mpg? I have been thinking about a cam and springs for a while. 40% just seems to good to be true
 
I have the colt cam and the Smarty Jr and saw maybe a 10% increase in mileage, maybe a little more but I went to a taller mud tire at the time of the cam install and haven't used the truck as a DD since the install either.

My oil does appear cleaner and I prefer the way the truck runs. One of these days i'll do an empty road trip and check mileage. Thou with a GVW of 10,500 last month I did get 17. 2, which was pretty good. I think I would have been about 15 stock on that trip.
 
the 04. 5 up uses a incylinder egr scheme for emission control. you have to do a few things to remove it. first change the cam to a pdr or colt. at the same time have ddp hone the nozzles out 35 hp. next get a smarty jr and set on default tow. and last do a 5" turbo back straight pipe kit from fbd. get a m090072 resonator and a m090535 muffler from ryder truck parts. this will give you 40% increase in mpg and lower egt by 250* and the oil stays cleaner. it is to lengthly to explain how this works. and the 35 hp injectors is not for more power but to shorten duration, effective timing and decreasing the third injection pulse





i have flux 2 injectors from f1 in the mail and already have a smarty pod.

whet setting could i use with my pod right now whitout a cam to get mpg. . i thin my 35 wheels destroy my mpg but i hope for better than my stock that was leakin so much it sometimes wouldnt start and somtimes made white smoke.



PLEASE explane how the cam can stop turning my oil dirty how does it work really? i know diesels always get darker oil but why cause of the cam? what about the timing settings you talked about more timing??

my smarty manual says 3 for aftermarket injectors but 2 is more timing?



For Dummies... is it possible to get something to read to understan my smarty and settings better than smarty manual?

heard about some book here on the forum
 
PLEASE explane how the cam can stop turning my oil dirty how does it work really?

The stock cam allows for some valve overlap, to retain an amount of residual exhaust gas in the cylinder that is mixed with the incoming charge for the next combustion event. Since exhaust contains PM (particulate matter) of very small diameter, some of this soot collects on cylinder walls and makes its way past the rings into the oil.

So, if you change to a cam that eliminates this "in-cylinder EGR", then you have less soot in-cylinder to contaminate your oil.

HOWEVER, if you have ANY fueling enhancements (Smarty, TST, EZ, Dr P, TS MP-8, Crazy Larry, Banks, Adrenaline, Bully Dog, etc, etc) or have larger injectors, you already have much more in-cylinder soot than was ever created with the stock cam's valve overlap. Thus, if you have fueling enhancements and change the cam, your oil will be a little cleaner... however, it will most likely not be any cleaner than when the truck was stock with the stock cam.

--Eric
 
I think it can be cleaner than with the stock with some fueling enhancements. You may get more smoke out the pipe, but the air in the cylinder is cleaner. . If that makes sense. Look at the old trucks (LD, MD, HD), smoke like a freight train and keep golden oil.

I was thinking about CKelly1's results last night, and I had forgotten that he got his 42% mileage increase numbers on a 100hp dyno (at least thats what I think), which is simulating normal cruise. I would say that's probably the max gain, and mixed driving is around a 10-20% gain (similar right foot).
 
Look at the old trucks (LD, MD, HD), smoke like a freight train and keep golden oil.

That is true... however, I think one of the other main factors in the equation is cylinder pressure.

The older trucks (take 1st gen for instance) ran cleaner oil, but MUCH lower cylinder pressures than the newer 3rd gen trucks. In a simplified manner, the cylinder pressure acting upon the piston during the "power" stroke correlates to the hp/tq of the engine. Thus the newer trucks with twice the power are operating at twice the cylinder pressure... kindof. Of course, the newer electronic breeds utilize multiple injection pulses to keep the pressure rise rate under control, but the total time at elevated and increased pressure is much higher. The in-cylinder pressure is what forces cylinder "stuff" past the rings into the lube oil.

I'll have to think on this subject some more and see what sense I can make of it... the above is just me rambling out of head through my fingers :-laf

Of course a cam will help with the oil situation... but don't expect to put a cam in a 3rd gen with increased fueling and have golden oil.

--Eric
 
Except retarding timing creates lower cylinder pressure and cooler combustion, and thats where the soot comes from. I don't believe it forces it past the rings, but it does adhere to the cylinder walls then can get past the walls as the piston goes up and down. So timing has more to do with it than pressure, IMHO.
 
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