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EGT and boost tap?

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Dear Folks,



I need some advice. This weekend, if my loving wife has not already scheduled me for two days of yardwork, I will install two gauges: EGT and boost.



Questions:



1. Where is the best location to install EGT probe? I hesitate drilling into exhaust manifold for two reasons: I might screw up and secondly, don't want drill debris to get into turbo. Please advise.

2. I figure the easiest location for the boost probe is on the injector side of the engine on the intake manifold (aluminum housing just before preheater).



Thanks, willard brown
 
Thanks Rob,



Good referral.



Question EGT Probe pre-turbo: Tap for probe just before exhaust manifold bolts to turbo?



thanks, willard
 
You should mount the thermo couple in the exhaust manifold pre turbo to get the best readings. It is a little tense to drill the exhaust manifold, but it is the best place for it.



On the late model 24V trucks like yours, you can get a 3/4NPT x 1/8NPT pipe bushing to replace the plug just towards the back of the engine from the fuel filter for the boost tube.
 
Dave, excellent data. One question: how deep is EGT probe supposed to go?



thanks, willard



And, is it advisable to use permatex II or other sealants on egt probe thread and boost thread??
 
Willard,



The threads on the t-couple should be flush with the bottom(inside) of the manifold.



No permatex, just use anti-sieze, (the silver stuff) on the EGT probe, the heat doesn't like anything else.



On the boost fittin' use teflon tape or equivl.



Later, Rob
 
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Originally posted by Dave - Diesel Power Products

You should mount the thermo couple in the exhaust manifold pre turbo to get the best readings. It is a little tense to drill the exhaust manifold, but it is the best place for it.



On the late model 24V trucks like yours, you can get a 3/4NPT x 1/8NPT pipe bushing to replace the plug just towards the back of the engine from the fuel filter for the boost tube.



Where can I find the 3/4NPT x 1/8NPT pipe bushing for a 2002, Home Depot, etc?? Which would be better, using the 3/4NPT x 1/8NPT bushing or Pier's PDR 24V Turbo Boost Fitting which replaces one of the intake manifold bolts??
 
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It depends on the type of probe. The ones we use has a ridge for the tightening nut and cannot be adjusted for depth. If yours is adjustable put the tip of the probe in the center of the port.



We do not use any sealant for the exhaust manifold installations. The pipe thread that you tap into the manifold shouldn't leak. You do want to make sure you get the chips out when drilling and tapping. Many guys remove the turbo to be certain they get all the chips out. You can also use a shop vac and small rare earth mechanics magnet that will reach all the way to the bottom of the turbo to get the chips out if you are careful.



Good luck with the install.
 
Thanks to everyone. I think I can get this done without really screwing up. Good advise and good instructions illflem. , let you know how it turns out.



best regards to you folks, willard
 
I was a little nervous about drilling into the exhaust manifold but it went fine, used a magnet to get chips out.





Eric
 
1tuffram I use Piers turbo boost fitting and work perfect, is very easy to install. I get my 3/4 inch taped plug with my boost gauge, but I don't feel confortable to use small bronze fitting from boost gauge to tighten the 3/4 inch plug.

M:cool:
 
Peirs Connector

Peirs intake manifold boost connector made it easy to connect up the boost gauge. Easy install and no problems. Worth $18. 00 and shipping.



-CM
 
For the boost, I used Pier's boost fitting. Very clean and simple. To put in my pre and post turbo EGT probes, I took the turbo, along with the Jake brake, off. I drilled and tapped the Jake brake on the bench and had a clear and easy time doing the exhaust manifold with the turbo off. It only cost about 30 extra minutes and $8. 00 in new gaskets and I know I didn't get any metal in my turbo. I was able to make sure that the probe holders were flush with the inside surface of the manifold and Jake brake and the probes were set the correct distance into the exhause gas flow.
 
Removing the turbo as Run8Ram describes is the only way to go. Fooling around with grease, magnets and shop vacs will take just as long as removing the turbo and you still might not get all the chips out. Even though all the chips will probably be blown out the first time you start the engine there is always the chance that one will wedge in-between the housing and impeller and stop your turbo dead.
 
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