EGT probes

[Archive]

I was going to install EGT gauge and am trying to decide which Autometer probe to buy ? Autometer tells me there are 2 types #5244 weld in or #5247 clamp style anyone used either of these ? also whats the best location for the probe.

 

[Archive]

W & S---Use the Autometer #5244 t-couple, the other is a "strap-on", and although it will work on some applications, we have no place to adequately mount it. You want it pre-turbo, in the exhaust manifold. You will have to drill and tap a 1/4" fpt hole, and install a 1/4 x 1/8 brass bushing to accept the probe. I believe TST has an instruction sheet on their website how to do this. Use grease on drill, and tap, also use magnet to clean out manifold after drill and tap. Some suggest pulling the turbo to do the work, so you can get all the shavings out of the manifold. Others have just let the shavings blow out the tailpipe. Concern is ONE piece of shaving getting into turbo bearing, and CARAMBA!! There are other threads on this, check them out and do it your way. Hope I helped some. Ron

------------------
2001 QC Dually SLT+ 354 LSD AUTO 4WD Driftwood SS Railcaps Stainless Werks step-rail nerfs Rhino spray-in liner Aux B/U lites Diamond Plate Alum Highways tow box SS Fender lips Jardine 4" Mag-Hytec diff & transmission Alcoa classics Reese 20K hitch 28ft Holiday Rambler 5er w/slide 84 Scrambler 4" lift 33/12. 50's 4. 56 gears soft locker/trac-lok Built 258 w/Mopar fuel injection conversion BUILDING 66-442 Olds, ground up--OH BABY! NRA 25 YEAR MEMBER

 

[Archive]

Why do you need to tap 1/4NPT and then use a 1/8 bushing? Why not use the 1/4 probe (part #?) or just tap a 1/8NPT hole? Brass will start to recrystalize under normal EGT's and it could lose some of it's strength. If you do use a bushing, at least use a high pressure steel hydraulic fitting, but then you will have to worry about it getting stuck in there. Just use the right hole for the job.

 

[Archive]

jw--The 1/8 thermocouple is more reactive, has less hysterisis--(less mass). It heats & cools quicker, therefore more reactive. Maybe brass isn't the best choice, but as you said, steel might be a problem as well. Either with a good glop of hi-temp antisieze will do the job. I do believe the t/c's are available in both 1/8 & and 1/4". I prefer the smaller for reasons mentioned. Regards, Ron

------------------
2001 QC Dually SLT+ 354 LSD AUTO 4WD Driftwood SS Railcaps Stainless Werks step-rail nerfs Rhino spray-in liner Aux B/U lites Diamond Plate Alum Highways tow box SS Fender lips Jardine 4" Mag-Hytec diff & transmission Alcoa classics Reese 20K hitch 28ft Holiday Rambler 5er w/slide 84 Scrambler 4" lift 33/12. 50's 4. 56 gears soft locker/trac-lok Built 258 w/Mopar fuel injection conversion BUILDING 66-442 Olds, ground up--OH BABY! NRA 25 YEAR MEMBER