Here I am

elec cooling fan(s)

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Long(er) wheel studs needed

Fastest spooling turbo

Status
Not open for further replies.
I've seen that page before. That radiator combo looks like the new flexalite aluminum radiator combo. The question is..... does a second gen radiator fit in a 1st gen.
 
Bob B runs a Horton electric fan. He told me it was OEM option for his truck. I asked him for the assy number or individual part numbers but he really didn't seem to know much about the unit.



I need one as my A/C simply will not work with out the truck at highway speeds. I tried the new condesnor method and cleaned the charge cooler/radiator, but no luck.



I have a fan clutch, but how am I going to bolt it on? I removed it from a cummins B but was bolted to the head, not the block like ours.
 
Don,

I have a second gen friend who mounted a GM dual electric fan set up from a boneyard... from an older buick I believe.

He set one fan to run whenever the A/C is on, the second to activate from a thermal switch. He has run like this for two years and says it works great.
 
I installed a (Flexilite) FLX-295 two years ago, and it is great. It's a dual- fan puller sold by Summit. I wired it to a three way switch so I can turn it on or off manually, or to auto where it is thermostatically controlled. It flows a lot of air, but I don't recall that info now. It was a snug fit, and I had to hacksaw off the threaded shaft on the fan support bracket. Look it up, it's a gem IMO.
 
now we are talkin



scott, my truck is a ice box on the road but if you hit traffic it kinda changes into a swamp cooler - i know the feeling



elec has got to be the way to go



think i'll call summit
 
or - what about a flex fan?



like we used to put on the muscle cars



no clutch



pulls a lot of air



dont know if our motors get the fan to a high enough rpm to actually flex and decrease drag tho?



lol
 
Today I went for a little drive in the 10?+ temps and the AC was comfortable at 55. I then got a dotted line and quick as a wink I passed 2 trucks, I hit 90 just as I pulled into my lane. I then had to turn down the AC as we were FREEZING! :-laf:-laf It sure works better at higher RPM and airflow. ;)

Ken
 
Hflrtcher



When you did the fans, did you also change the rad or did the electric fans bolt to the existing one?



Also, to state the question again, would a 2nd gen rad/ elec fan setup fit into our trucks?



Robert
 
BScharzli, I put a 1993 core support and crossflow radiator in non IC truck, which makes it like a 93 engine compartment, spacewise, I think. The FLX-295 fits the radiator, but you do need to pay some attention during install - like I said, I cut off the threaded shaft that protrudes from the fan support. I know nothing about a 2nd gen/elec fan setup. The specifications for the FLX-295, and other models, can be obtained from the Flexilite website, as I recall. They give all the dimensions, air flow etc.
 
I have used Flexalite systems on high power gas engine conversions - the electric fan conversion saved 5-8% on mileage and vastly improves acceleration, belt life and front engine serviceability. My experience with this company is very positive - their engineering calculations and performance data are conservative - IMO and IME.



If you have increased your fuel flow and therefore your horsepower output, you might be a little marginal in terms of being able to use an electric fan - it really depends upon your driving profile and when you use the horsepower the most. Typically, the most challenging profile (i. e. heat load) on the engine's cooling system is sustained high horsepower operation followed by immediately shifting to stop and go city traffic (example: pulling a fully loaded trailer down the interstate at 75 mph in 110F conditions and then getting off the interstate in stop and go city traffic with the same ambient temperature conditions).



If you go with an electric fan system, make sure that you over size wiring, solder and heat shrink all connections, use wire loom guard and provide wiring stress reliefs - Murphy's law states that the wiring connection will fail when it is needed the most #@$%!!
 
Well said, Winslow! Let me also point out that in your worst case scenario, which I agree with, when you slow down (after pulling a load) with the stock fan clutch, the fan turns at idle rpm - little air flow thru the radiator - not good! On the other hand, the electric fans are thermostatically controlled, and if your coolant temp is 185 (or whatever you set) the fans deliver the full 4500CFM - at idle. If you're warm you might want to rev your engine a little to augment water flow thru the radiator, but the fans are delivering fully, independently.



I wrestled with the purchase of this fan for sometime because no vendor was willing to say this fan, or any other electric fan, could cool our cummins'. Well, two plus years later I can report that this fan cools way better than stock, and has not let me down. When I purchased this fan I even bought a back up fan support off Ebay, and always kept it aboard, with the original fan/clutch assembly. No more.



The install is a little snug, but IMO well worth the effort. For what it's worth, I gained confidence to try this after reading on our good old TDR about other members running without any fan whatsoever.
 
Some, things that have worked for me in the past. Big hulking older (86) motorhome, gas powered but principle is the same. get rid of heat.
One, if you have an automatic get a separate cooler for the trans fluid. (Why put heat into the rad?) Away from the radiator air, works best. Put a fan on it. If you worry about low winter temps, switch it back in season, but I never did.
A seperate oil cooler, also away from the radiator air flow, fan is good.
The coolers can be covered in cooler weather.
Another important thing is to force as much air through the radiator as possible, stock shrouds often leave lots of ways for air to escape, especially under the vehicle.
I have seen Aux radiator, a heater from an old bus, installed , but I didn't need it after the others. (I doubt this would fit under a pickup). This one could be pretty cheap.
My 2cents.
 
Instead of starting a new thread I will bring this back up.



I am trying to decide between the Flexalite FLX-295 or the Derale DER-16927.



I think either would be ok as I have been driving around with no fan at all the last 2 months and it's doing ok.



The FLX is $460 and draws 28 amps.

The DER is $260 but draws 50 amps. :eek:
 
A friend here (in CT) bought a junkyard dual fan setup from an older buick and installed it in his 2nd gen. One fan set up on the thermostat switch, the other to come on whenever his AC was running.

Cost was much less than what you posted.

He has had no issues in 3 plus years.

Just another option.
 
I have been looking at electric fans for a chevy 5. 3 swap into an older Jeep and the full size Chevy trucks for the last couple years have been cooling 300-400 hp V8s with electric fans. The couple I have seen look like they might fit a first gen radiator pretty well (dual 15" fans or so), might check your local JY for low cost options.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top