Electrical escapades, ignition issue?

[Rhondasway]

I'll keep this as brief as possible. I've been chasing electrical issues for a long time now, mostly for auto transmission shifting (very modified trans). I've replaced all the trans electronics multiple times and also the TPS. Sometimes it's fine but I still often have 2nd and 3rd gear starts and (yes, this next part is true), it won't upshift into 4th if the A/C is on. No issues with lockup.
This past summer I replaced the starter and alternator (both were bad), and got new batteries the year before (they test good). It's been sluggish to start anyway, and someone was able to pull off my main positive battery connector cable without loosening the clamp the other day when the truck wouldn't turn over in town, and wouldn't respond to jumping from another Cummins.
Yes, I've cleaned all battery connections many times, lightly greased them, and tightened them as far as they can be tightened. So I pulled that connector apart, cut a sliver off the inside of the clamp with a hack saw, and re-tightened. The truck has been turning over very quickly for the first time in years. And before anyone suggests it, I'll throttle the next person who tells me to check my grounds!!!!!! They are PERFECT as are all my battery cables.
I went through all my wiring around the charging system, even isolating that one large wire from the fuse box to the alternator. Everything I can see is pristine.
So. I've been hearing an electrical feedback in my radio off and on, and sometimes while driving my radio will blip off very briefly. My ignition has been difficult to turn from time to time, like it's turning in frozen molasses, not as if the key or something is catching (has happened when hot out as well as winter). I even had trouble getting the truck back into park once and couldn't turn the key off (not a linkage/transmission issue!) with truck not running. Oh, and several times my shift indicator (PRNDL) does not properly reflect gear position, then fixes itself.
Lately while I've been driving the truck feels sputtery, like it's low fuel when it's not. I'll run my electric fuel pump which is plumbed directly into the injection pump, and it doesn't help. It is freezing here but all the pumps run winterized fuel (as far as I know). Today after a couple hours of driving, multiple re-starts and a bunch of highway time, it started sputtering and no matter the amount of throttle it died; electric pump was on. Luckily it was on a back road home so I was safe. I tried re-starting and it turned over quickly but wouldn't catch. Then I checked the fuel shutoff solenoid and found it was not going up and engaging. So I pushed it up manually, turned on the electric pump, and after some cranking it sputtered to life very roughly. It smoothed out and drove home no problem and it shut off fine.
Some of these things could be unrelated, but I thought I'd list it all just in case.
Could this possibly be the ignition? The truck is 20 years old this month and it's never been replaced. I hate throwing more parts at it, but this is seriously getting old! I suppose it could be the shutoff solenoid itself, but if the ignition is not providing the proper voltage, couldn't that cause it to fail? Plus the other symptoms..?
I'd appreciate any advice, thanks.

 

[fest3er]

What are the road/stability/weather conditions when the gremlins are perturbed? If it only happens when the road is rough or the truck is being jostled or it's wet/salty outside, I suggest a chance of an abraded wire somewhere or possibly a loose electrical multi-connector.

But it could be the ignition switch. Disconnect the wires to it and clip an ohmmeter onto certain pairs of wires. Then observe the resistance while easing the key through off, run and start, then jiggling the key as you go through each position. If the resistance is solid, it probably is not the switch.

If you can beg/borrow or steal a PCM, swap it out and see if the symptoms change or go away.

Put a scope on the alternator output and verify that it produces smooth, consistent voltage.

Note all of the systems that misbehave. Then go through section 8 of the SM and see if their wiring has *anything* in common, like fuse box, relays, power feeds, junction points, et alia; this might direct you to a problem.

 

[GAmes]

This link has a simplified diagram of the FSS wiring. Note the '98 has a fuse, not a fusible link. My ignition switch is the original, so I think your problems lie elsewhere. Chasing wires is a hassle with only one problem. Having multiple problems really makes it a pain. A good multimeter and the wire diagrams of the FSM are a must.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/569868-fuel-shut-off-solenoid-fss.html

 

[Rhondasway]

Thanks for all the info. I have multimeters but I'm so much better are replacing parts than I am testing/understanding wiring! I may have to recruit some help but you guys have given me a good start.

 

[GAmes]

This was in issue 97, perhaps it will be of help. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ission-Hunting-Shifting?p=2509641#post2509641

 

[Joe Mc]

To the ignition switch difficulty, if you have a Dodge shop manual look in the index for ignition switch, it should lead you to procedure for removal, there’s also a instruction on filing a portion of the tab at the bottom of the switch if it’s “sticky”.
To the PRND2L indicator, if you remove the knee cover below the column (3 screws and a few snap tabs) you’ll see the white adjustment bolt with a small cable attached. This will adjust the indicator, but I’m thinking you might find something interrupting the cable movement since you mention sometimes it reads correctly and ...
I hear you on grounds... I’ve checked all mine (and not just visually..) and still have some whacky gremlins that come and go, so I’m not able to help much there.

 

[Rhondasway]

Okay, more to explore! I'm hoping it warms up a bit as it's in the low 20's and I don't have a heated garage, plus only a smaller propane heater. Brrr! Still, I need to drive the beast...

 

[Joe Mc]

I hear ya, man it’s like winter out there - LOL. I’m awaiting a new PSC steering box to be delivered and am glad it hasn’t shipped yet. Being the knuckle head I am if it was here I’d probably try to bundle up and go for it. Way to cold to be taking on a 2-3 hr project outside.

 

[Rhondasway]

I hear ya, man it’s like winter out there - LOL. I’m awaiting a new PSC steering box to be delivered and am glad it hasn’t shipped yet. Being the knuckle head I am if it was here I’d probably try to bundle up and go for it. Way to cold to be taking on a 2-3 hr project outside.

Totally!

 

[Woodenhead]

Rhonda, I don't trust the "winter blend" fuels to be adequate and typically still put some sort of additive in it when it gets cold, especially with unbranded fuels. You may very well have had some gelling issues or your solenoid might be on the way out. Have you ever replaced the shut off solenoid on your truck? For the record, the one on the goose gave it up a number of years ago. I think I replaced that one with a spare used one I had.
Sorry I don't have much advice on your other electrical issues, as always you're welcome to park it in my unheated shop to work on it but I doubt that's worth the drive.
Happy New Year!

 

[pherve]

Have you install the Redundant ground wire on the ECU? Gino’s garage has the kit for it in an explanation of what it supposed to do. It sounds like you have got a ground loop issue and this redundant ground to the ECU is supposed to help it.

 

[Rhondasway]

Thanks, Mike. Valid point about the fuel, but: I took the FSS completely out and have been running the pump manually. So. No more sputtering (with only about 50 miles of driving), but I'm still getting electrical feedback through the radio. The boot is of course almost gone from the FSS, but I understand that does not mean the unit itself is bad. Before I removed it I tried bumping the ignition (without starting) and it did not raise up.
Not enough starts and stops to see if the trans issues have resolved. My suspicion is still that the ignition is causing an issue, but I've been too busy (and it's been too cold!) to try to figure out testing per above suggestions. Also the PRND2L did stick again, then resolved itself. AAARRRRGGHHHH!
I do appreciate all the suggestions, and hope I'm not the only one who will benefit from this little discussion if I ever get it resolved...

 

[GAmes]

I ran without a boot on my FSS for several hundred thousand miles. I did have to remove it every 6 or 8 months, clean and lube the plunger (I used dry graphite) and bore with a shotgun brush, then reinstall.

 

[Rhondasway]

I ran without a boot on my FSS for several hundred thousand miles. I did have to remove it every 6 or 8 months, clean and lube the plunger (I used dry graphite) and bore with a shotgun brush, then reinstall.

Interesting. I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like. Without the boot holding it, it does fall completely apart, meaning the shaft and spring come out.

 

[GAmes]

Yes. It is an exercise in coordination to put it back together, but it can be done.

 

[Woodenhead]

Interesting about the radio feedback, maybe you should get off the AM stations once in a while :-laf
Seriously though, I used to get feedback/whining in the CB that I had in the goose and had to put a filter on the CBs power wire to cut it down. Then one day it got really bad, then a day or two later the alternator packed it in. Replaced the alternator with a new one and never had any feedback again. My point? It's a bit of a hail Mary but maybe your alternator has something funky going on that's screwing with the electronics in your computer/transmission? Not sure if they're the same but maybe you could swap it with the one from the goose and see if it changes anything.

 

[Joe Mc]

Went to “Geno’s Garage” and searched, and searched for this “Redundant Ground Kit” net results = nothing? Anyone got a lead on this? I’d like to seee/learn more about it.

Have you install the Redundant ground wire on the ECU? Gino’s garage has the kit for it in an explanation of what it supposed to do. It sounds like you have got a ground loop issue and this redundant ground to the ECU is supposed to help it.

 

[GAmes]

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/bd-1300030/engine-sensors-2

 

[Missouri Mule]

1.Try getting new keys to your ign,mite be why your ignition was not turning. My origanal keys wore out and would not turn the ign switch but would unlock the doors. I had a mechanic key so had two more made.
FSS my boot came off years ago. You do not have to take it apart just spray it down wd-40. The gas is a electronic magnet (actually 2 elec magnets). I forget to spray it down ( to get oil and dirt off the rod) and once in a while the engine will die right away or 40 ft down the block. I grap the wd- 40 pop the hood spray it . Get back crank it up and head down the road. I check your relays in your pdf and make sure they are working.
Also on your battery terminal that they pulled connector off make sure the post is screwed in all the way ( make sure it making full contact with the battery connectors inside the batter).
Your radio mite be just going it's old. But check you attena and it's cable.
Just food for thought.

 

[Rhondasway]

The next issue was the ABS/ park brake lights coming on, ABS felt like it wasn't working, and speedometer started freaking out. I bought an ABS speed sensor for the rear diff and installed it yesterday. Turned out it had a broken wire, which made me hopeful that it was the cause for my intermittent transmission issues. While I was at it I re-installed the brand-new FSS then drove it several hours with multiple shutoffs.
ABS/speedo seems to be fixed, but not transmission issues which remain random. I'm still hearing feedback in the radio.
Over the past few weeks, running without FSS, the truck has continued to sputter occasionally under light throttle. I'm now thinking this may be the spring in the banjo (?) fitting for the fuel return lines. Turning on the electric pump resolves it.
With new FSS the truck started right up but when I shut the key off it never immediately died; it took several seconds for it to quit running each time. Then one time it did not shut off at all, so I turned the key back on and it died. Sigh.
Shift indicator seems to be working normally.
Oh! And twice the "water in fuel" light blinked on briefly with a dinging sound. So Mike, you could be on to something (I'm running fuel from several random suppliers and have gone through a lot of it since my last post) or it could be another weird electrical issue..?