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Off Roading eleminate CAD

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Is there a way to replace the CAD with an axle that is always connected? The reason I ask is because the original vacuum system is not reliable and the Posi-Lok does not stay engaged. What a pain! I would like to just pull the t-case lever into 4Hi or 4Lo when I need it and not worry about the axle disconnect.
 
If you want to replace the whole axle, get a Dana 60 from a 2002 Ram CTD. The 2002 model year (most of them) had a live front axle with not center disconnect. Also, there are conversion kits available that remove the vacuum system from your axle and replace it with a manual pull cable. With that, you would pull the transfer case into 4, and then pull the axle disconnect cable to enable the front end. The big advantage of this system is that it also gives you a 2wd low range option. If you put the transfer case in 4low, but leave the front axle disconnected, you effectively have 2low. This allows slow manuvering on dry pavement. 2low is great for backing up heavy trailers. It can really save a clutch some heat and can make life easier on an auto during slow manuvering of heavy loads. While I like that my '02 has the live front end with no disconnect, sometimes having a 2low option would be nice.
 
Dynatrac sells a kit for just under $2k that converts the frontend to manual hubs, if I recall correctly... For that much money, I'd look at swapping in an HP60 out of an old Ford, though.
 
Thanks, I was hoping there was a low cost alternative. I already have a cable disconnect installed (Posi-Lok), it does not work well. You have to pull gently on the handle and jockey the throttle to get it in and of lock. It is not the good solution I thought it was. Even when you get it to lock, you have to continually pull and twist the handle because it pops loose. If you pull too hard the e-clips on the end of the cable (they hold the fork to the cable) pop loose. When this happens, you have to open the cover and replace them (not fun).
 
I've never had a truck with CAD, but I've always wondered why nobody does this. Get yourself an electric solenoid valve (Mac and Skinner are 2 manufacturers) and run manifold vacuum to it and run a line to the CAD. Then mount a switch in the cab to control it. This way you could turn it on or off whenever you wanted. You would have to look at your particular vacuum set-up and get a valve with enough ports, but it would be very easy and very reliable.

Travis. .
 
Wiltcher said:
Thanks, I was hoping there was a low cost alternative. I already have a cable disconnect installed (Posi-Lok), it does not work well. You have to pull gently on the handle and jockey the throttle to get it in and of lock. It is not the good solution I thought it was. Even when you get it to lock, you have to continually pull and twist the handle because it pops loose. If you pull too hard the e-clips on the end of the cable (they hold the fork to the cable) pop loose. When this happens, you have to open the cover and replace them (not fun).

Something must be wrong with your Posi-Lok if it continuously pops out. I have had mine for over 6 months now and use 4x4 just about every other weekend and recently every weekend since these rains and snow down here in So. Cal. Mine engages perfectly and says engaged, it still takes a little movement to get the collar to slip over the other shaft, but it works great for me. Not sure why yours would be popping out, are you sure it is adjusted correctly? When I first installed mine I had to adjust it a little to get it to engage properly but it has been working great. Have you called Posi-Lok and talked to them about your problem? I bet they would have a solution or at least warranty a new one for you.



Joe
 
wasn't there someone over the eyars past who made there own "posilock" for about 30 bucks, and it was stronger to boot? I seem to remember the photos and everything, but it might have been off of one of the jeep 4x4 sites.
 
I posted a link from Jeepsunlimited.com some time ago. The homemade conversion was done on a Cherokee(XJ). On my 93' Jeep(YJ) I eliminated the CAD. I installed a later one piece shaft from a TJ. On my Jeep I used a Chicago Rawhide 11800(CR 11800). This seal fit a non-machined axle housing. I don't know what part number would fit the larger D60. For the Jeeps, there are a few companies that make a one piece kit that eliminates the CAD (Warn & Drivetrain Direct?). It may be required to balance the front driveshaft.



I've been running the single piece shaft on my Jeep now for almost 2yrs. I haven't bothered to convert the truck because it's rare I use 4wd. That realm belongs to the Jeep.
 
can't you just shim the CAD shift fork to be slid over in the locked position all the time. My buddy did it on his dana 30 in his jeep, so far so good.
 
I bent the shaft on my posilok the first time I used it. I took the c clip off that kept the fork from going too far toward the drivers side and ever since then I have really put some abuse on the front axles with no popping out. I think the stock posilok position on the collar and fork is too far to the right especially if your collar and axle has already popped out too many times and rounded off the edges of the splines. Other than losing the front drive when mine popped out it also bent the flimsy little shaft that the fork is on therefore never working untill I pull it apart and straighten the rod.
 
Too bad you can't find someone to trade. I knw some people complained about the solid axle.

That was one of the reasons I bought an 02, others prefer the CAD.



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