Eliminating Banjo Bolts!!!!

[Mark_Kendrick]

I have been posting to a lot of threads lately that deal with fuel system parts and I thought I'd post some interesting findings.



Recently I tore down my truck to do some BOMBing. While apart I started checking on banjo bolts and such. . trying to ensure I would not have fuel supply problems in the near future.



One of the calls was to HVAC. He pointed me to Aeroquip fittings. . called a 'Weber' adapter. its a 12mmx1. 5mm hollow fitting w/a #6 AN on the other end. It takes 5 to totally eliminate the Banjo's. You will also need 4- 90* #6 AN fittings and a 45* fitting.



To date I have only replaced the fittings between the lift pump (in the stock location) and the injection pump. I ordered the stainless hose but decided it was a PITA and used 5/16" black fuel hose.



Before I had:

14-15 at idle

12-13 at cruise

8-11 at WOT



Now I have:

14-15 at idle

13-15 at cruise (usually 14)

never under 11 at WOT!!! (usually 12)





I drove 400mi this weekend and watched it very close. . the electronic gauge that remembers min's and max's really helped too



I don't know if it'll affect the lift pump longevity but taking the load off of the pump has to help a bit. My primary concern was not running out of fuel w/the new injectors I installed.



I will replace the feed lines to the lift pump but I'm waiting until I have time to swap out the tank pickup to a larger hose.



Now I'd like to hear questions and comments... I have yet to decide what the next step and contemplate the reprocussions of the current mods.



Thanks,

Mark

 

[JR2]

I have a set of SS hoses that Brandon made me a year and a half ago. While I was getting after it I moved the stock lift pump back by the tank. That would be my next mod. By the way I am using the stock pickup and it seems to work fine so far. The min FP I see is 9 at WOT.



JR2

 

[KatDiesel]

All my banjos are gone, replaced with stainless braided lines and fittings. Same for my pusher pump setup..... braided lines and fittings, I carry an adapter in the glove box, either pump fails, I bypass it with the fitting and continue on my way.



There are also larger bajo bolts available from Geno's garage for those that don't want to lose the schrader valves.

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

the anodized fittings look cooler than the schrader's

gotta be worth at least 10hp



too bad they're not chrome

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by Mark_Kendrick

the anodized fittings look cooler than the schrader's

I agree they look better, but they make it a pain in the rear to check fuel pressure.



Hence the Banjo Bolt "upgrade" is what alot of people go for. I have a set, just never put them on the truck since I have the lines.

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

After seeing the increase in pressure I wonder if the lift pump may have had an extra load due to the restrictions



the decreased resistance to the pump may extend the life of the pump.



Later,

Mark

 

[Turboman]

That is the setup I have except I have the big hose all the way from the pusher pump. I tried the bigger banjos and saw no pressure increase. Now I have 20 psi at idle and never below 14 psi. Jannetty sells an inline pressure fitting, has a Mr. and Mrs. AN with an 1/8" FPT for the sender.

 

[Bigsaint]

Weber fittings

I first learned of these through Brandon, no doubt the way to go !!! For those that don't know, you need to use a pressure port fitting for the FP gauge. You place the PP fitting on the Weber, then your hose end/ elbow goes to the other end of the PP fitting. The PP fitting has a 1/8" NPT port for your gauge/ mechanical line.



Don't be afraid to use that SS line either, it's really not hard to cut and the hose ends go in easily with a bit of oil for lubrication. To cut the braided SS line, wrap the area that you our cutting tightly with black tape and then cut through the center of the tape, to avoid excessive fraying. I just used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel, worked fine. A high speed air cut off tool would probably work even better.



Scott W.

 

[MikeR]

Originally posted by Mark_Kendrick

the decreased resistance to the pump may extend the life of the pump.

Later,

Mark

I had hoped the same thing... .

I've had my airoquip/stainless fuel lines for almost 2years now, and my stock lift pumps still die at the same rate. I am getting more fuel flow, but still same pump life.



-Mike

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

Mike,

I think that the motor on the pumps is the problem. Almost all of the pumps that fail. . after market and stock seem to have problems with the brushes.



The motor on almost all of them are dry. I know that the failure of my lift pump was electrical in nature. when It came out the gears in the pump itself looked new and until the day before pressure had been steady. David Drown had an aftermarket pump that started poping fuses.



A mechanical failure would be sudden and permanent(lock up the pump) or gradual reduction of pressure (due to increased tolerances). I have not seen these cases at all.



The problem exists for all types of electrical pumps. gassers have their high pressure fuel pumps fail regularly. But there are some that work for many years and miles w/o trouble.



My wife's '96 Cirrus is a great example. fuel injected V6 that has 130k mi and NO problems w/the engine at all (beating on lage wooden object vigorously).



I don't understand why there seems to be such widespread problems w/fuel pumps in general.



FWIW,

Mark

 

[JR2]

If you look real close at the pic you can see the adapters for fuel pressure. I have one installed now on the bottom of my filter, the other is going to someday be before the filter. .



#ad
<br>



Thanks again Brandon.

 

[Wheaties]

Hey, those braided lines sure look nice!



I hate to be a critic, but I think I recall someone telling me that braided lines degrade faster than normal rubber hose, something about them absorbing more heat. I don't really even know if this is true, only that I heard it from someone somewhere.



If that is true, then wouldn't you be concerned about particles finding their way into the injector pump as the hose degrades? Or having them crack and leak down the road?



Matt

 

[Brandon]

hmmm, looks familiar...



thanks for the kind words fella's...

 

[Mopar-muscle]

mark , welcome to the club , i changed out my banjos for weber fittings over a year ago , my carter HP pump lasted a year in the stock location with them .



the problem with the pump is to fold , one is its placement , on the engine , 2nd is its use , runs constantly , it should survive , but for some reason it don't .



as far as a bigger pickup , what your HP level , the bigger pickup is only for guys making thee real big numbers , 500 hp is not a problem for the stock pickup .

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

500 is not where I wanna be. its where I am the sky is the limit... as long as the bank account holds out.

 

[Todd T]

has it been a year already MM, i thought the Weber fittings were pretty much old hat and general knowledge.



should we drag the pumps lines and what not thread back out of the closet

 

[ROGER/DODGER]

Compleate SS Kit & Weber's

Is any one out there marketing a compleate upgrade kit of SS lines and weber fittings to bolt on ? Iwould be intrested in buying a kit I'm just to lazy to run down all the pieces and not sure of alll the numbers and sizes.

 

[Turboman]

Jannetty Racing will sell you a complete kit 203-753-7223

 

[TxDieselKid]

Originally posted by Turboman

Jannetty Racing will sell you a complete kit 203-753-7223

How much?



Brandon, you could put together a kit right? I'll buy from you cause you da SPA man!



Andrew

 

[Todd T]

I think Advanced Diesel Technologies can sell you a complete set too. www.smokindiesel.com



shoot i probably have enough Aeroquip laying around to do a few kits. I have a place i buy from, that craps it out of junk aircraft they sell it in 55 gallon barrels. for pennies. and NO I'm not sharing