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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Eliminating the C.A.D.

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 4X4 not working

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) amsoil bypass question

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Has anyone ever locked their front CAD axle permanetly? I thought about taking the CAD fork off, pulling it apart and putting a solid spacer in there so the fork was in 4wd, all the time. Basically locking the axle shafts on the R/S together and making it solid, full time. Letting the differential do it's job. Didn't the '02's have the CAD eliminated? Would this be hard to steer, like it is in 4wd? Just wondering since I've read so much about guys hating their vacuum controled CAD, then they switch to a cable operated one. Why not just lock it up? Suggestions? Comments?
 
I been thinking the samething. All the parts are already turning. The left hub turns the differential, driveshaft, and the right inner axle shaft. The right turn the outer right shaft. It not like splitting the right shaft is saving any wear and tear.
 
This is an older post but am wondering if anyone has been sucsesfull doing this? My truck has no vacume provisions to conect/disconect the CAD and I would prefer to not worry about it anyway. I also have an ARB locker in the truck so its not like a normal locker so turning won't be an issue going in a straight line!



I was also thinking of getting the dimensions of the fork and getting a piece of hardend steel cut out on the CNC and then weld the now solid fork to a plate that bolts to the axle locking it for good!





Any info on this? anything would be great?
 
LHastings said:
I been thinking the samething. All the parts are already turning. The left hub turns the differential, driveshaft, and the right inner axle shaft. The right turn the outer right shaft. It not like splitting the right shaft is saving any wear and tear.





It is a little different that that. The driveshaft is not turning in 2H. So if I recall correctly the ring gear is not turning, or it doesn't ahve to be turning at full speed.
 
zstroken said:
It is a little different that that. The driveshaft is not turning in 2H. So if I recall correctly the ring gear is not turning, or it doesn't ahve to be turning at full speed.



That's right, the ring, pinion, driveline and t-case parts are not spinning. The only things spinning are the axle shafts and spider gears, which put almost no drag on things.



I personally see no reason to do this unless you did the locking hub conversion. You will end up with more drag up front, slightly reducing mileage and making for more wear in the axle and t-case. Yes I think the later trucks did away with the CAD but not sure on the years. I'm sure you could rig it up so it was in gear all the time some way, which would have no affect on driveability in 2wd and in 4wd it would be the same as before also.
 
Well for my truck it is pretty much a dedicated pull truck and I would rather not have to even think about using the manual CAD or even relying on the vacume CAD to lock the shaft! My brothers truck is pretty much the same way also and the other week he pulled up onto the track and the CAD wouldn't work... nothing worse than that feeling! This winter I am thinking I am going to find a full length shaft out of a newer D60 therefore having a stronger shaft also!



Ryan
 
I have a kit from posi -loc or posi- lok called perm lock thats not the cable rig up but just a replacement fork and cover with gasket for around 90. 00.

Have had it on the shelf for a few months to be ready for winter when my vacume setup will fail as it always has in cold.
 
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I have heard that they had something like that but was never able to find it on there site. Has anyone else ever used this item from them???





RyanB
 
You can eliminate the CAD by using the right axle from a '02 (some late '01's lost the CAD too). I just saw one on ebay a few weeks ago and it went cheap. You'd be better off with a 1 piece shaft on a pulling truck, less stuff to break.
 
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The Jeep TJ's lost the CAD in 97'. The CTD's in 01. 5'. The 3rd Gen's never had it. It was DC's way of improving mileage by . 5mpg. I converted my 93' Jeep YJ from CAD to solid axle shaft. It's a matter of finding the right seal. I used a seal designed for farm equipment in the axle of my Jeep. I cut out a block off plate for the CAD area. The CAD axle isn't machined to accept a seal where it's needed. The seal I used is designed to be used in a non machined area. On my Jeep I used a CR11800 (Chicago Rawhide). Spending some time with their catalog and your specs should provide the correct OD and ID needed to convert a CAD Dana 60 to a solid axleshaft. This would be possible without removing the R & P. I bought the seal from Napa.
 
Well since this post i've changed my mind. I put a switch in the vacuum line so now I can have 2 low. I just stop the vacuum from reaching the CAD, when I want 4wd, i just flip the switch, then the vacuum does it's job like normal. Works real well. My buddy has a jeep pickup that was 2wd, we made it 4wd with a dana 30 from a cherokee. It had CAD, but he didn't want to mess with fabricating the vacuum lines. He left everything in place and just put in a stiff spring in the CAD to keep the fork engaged. His mileage has dropped 2mpg since he installed the 4wd stuff ( t-case and front axle).
 
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