2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission emergency brake malfunction

[Lnwing]

My emergency brake will not stay engaged. Pushing in the pedal applies the brake, but it will not "catch". The release handle has no tension on it and stays in the "out" position, and acts like a return spring is broken, although I can't see anything that looks broken.



Has anyone experienced this, and if so, what's the fix?



Thanks,



Lynn

 

[Willys]

I had the same problem, the spring snapped a few days ago, so...



BTT for anyone else that this might have happened to. I'm still searching for the right spring, I'll post if I find a source...

 

[Joe G.]

I ended up having to replace the brake mechanism. By the way, it's a parking brake not an emergency brake. If you tried to make an emergency stop with it you would be lucky to stop in the same county.

 

[tp0d]

Had the same problem with mine. The click lock on the pedal is held together by the same bolt, and the two surfaces slide on one another. I wiped the old grease off with a rag (as much of the old as I could get to that is) and lubed it up with lithium grease. Took about 5 min of moving it to get the new grease in there. The return spring was pretty tired too, changed that out with a fresh one I scared up in my shop. The main thing was greasin it tho. . get some into the cable sheath also.



good luck



-j

 

[Willys]

Anyone have an idea of the length of the spring? Mine grenaded and I haven't found all the pieces. I suppose napa would probably have some miscellaneous springs I could match a functional one from.



Joe G, what did the assembly run you? Did you get it from Dodge or a parts store?

 

[Joe G.]

I don't remember what I paid. It has been some time. I tried lubing it and all that. It just refused to work. A part of it was bent I little I think. After a lot of frustration I just bit the bullet and got one from Dodge.

 

[Hiltiman]

I found out that mine didn't hold on my 4 degree sloped driveway. Fortunately, my neighbors were not home who usually park in the street. Would have been a real mess. Sometimes it holds, sometimes it doesn't. I have no faith in it for sure. I carry a couple of wheel chocks in the bed if I need to leave it running. I'd love for it to hold!

 

[trqmnstr]

I had my rear brakes done and ever since my park brake doesn't hold. I've adjusted it to the original tension but it doesn't hold at all. I think I'll take the drums off tomorrow and figure it out. Any suggestions?

 

[B.G. Smith]

I had my rear brakes done and ever since my park brake doesn't hold. I've adjusted it to the original tension but it doesn't hold at all. I think I'll take the drums off tomorrow and figure it out. Any suggestions?

Try adjusting the rear brakes before you take the drums off? bg

 

[Willys]

I'll second that, the self adjusters on these trucks don't do much self adjusting. I adjust mine every 3k miles, sometimes more often.



On another note, I just ordered some springs that might fit the parking brake. I had to order a pack of 6, so if it works I might have some extras.

 

[trqmnstr]

Is is possible that my rear brakes are barely working? I've never adjusted my rear brakes. Whick direction do I turn the adjusters and how much? Thanks

 

[B.G. Smith]

Is is possible that my rear brakes are barely working? I've never adjusted my rear brakes. Whick direction do I turn the adjusters and how much? Thanks

The brakes are probably working, the first thing you would notice as they wear if the auto adjusters don't work would be extra brake pedal travel. Eventually the travel would be enough to offset the combination valve and the red brake/abs light would come on. Adjustment, first you have to raise both rear wheels off the ground so they can be turned. The truck needs to be in neutral so block the front wheels so the truck can't roll off the jack/jack stands and get you. At the bottom of the backing plates you should see a little plastic plug (elongated) covering the access hole to the adjuster. Remove the plug and with a brake spoon (adjusting tool), reach into the opening and locate the star wheel, turn it in the direction so you are raising the outer end of the tool until you hear a dragging sound from the brakes, it is helpful to have a helper turn the wheel but it can be done alone. Then you back off (turn the star wheel in opposit direction) until the drag is no longer heard. That is the manual directions, I personally tighten until I can no longer turn the wheel then back off until free or about 10 clicks. The adj. can be done with a wide blade screwdriver but the brake tool is best. Also the auto adj. blade rests on the star wheel and on some vehicles you have to push it back slightly with small rod or screwdriver to back off on star wheel. bg

 

[Willys]

Basically what BG Smith said is true in my case, plus when I don't keep the brakes adjusted, the front brakes are taking all the weight, and it can get a little squierrely and the front seems to nosedive, but there are also other issues there that I'll be addressing soon(shocks, new spring and control arm bushings, tie rod end and some new brake parts).

 

[Willys]

The springs were not the right kind...



Soooo... I think I'll try to find something that works at NAPA soon. In the mean time I noticed if I push the brake down, then push the release handle forward with my hand, the brake holds like normal(the ratchet works). I'm not sure how reliable this is, but its better than nothing at all...